Need help re front suspension question

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grassy

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It is kinda interesting to try to put something back together that you took apart two years ago in a different configuration with only the service manual to go by. Finding things is a bugger because we have shifted the stuff to different locations.

Anyway, I am putting the front suspension together now. The car was originally drums in front and I am converting it to discs. I believe we pulled the discs off a dart in '09, maybe.

I don't seem to have 2 things. The first is the 2 bolts that attach the steering knuckle( I would call it a stub axle) to the knuckle arm. I seem to have a quantity of these bolt/nuts.

bolts-L.jpg


They are 3 inches long. They seem to be the right diameter.I need 2 per side. Will they be too long to use ?

The second is the bolt for the idler arm to the K-frame. I can only find one bolt that is long enough..it doesn't have the hole for a cotter pin. From what I can tell the arm attaches to the k-frame without washers or anything else.

Again, any input is appreciated.
ian
 
The idler arm bolt uses a stop nut, no cotter pin on all but one year only 67’s which had a mono connection like a tie rod end.

I don't seem to have 2 things. The first is the 2 bolts that attach the steering knuckle( I would call it a stub axle) to the knuckle arm. I seem to have a quantity of these bolt/nuts.

I’m not sure what you are saying. Are you describing attaching the lower ball joint to hub?
The disk brake lower ball joint uses a larger diameter attachment bolt than a drum brake ball joint hub.
Depending on year of your car, and the donor car you may have a wheel bolt pattern miss match to rear axle.
 
sorry, I am new to this site can someone tell me how to post a new thread?
 
Hey spud..I am from PEI :) a fellow spudder :)

Go to what ever form you want to post in and there is a button on the top left of the thread squares that says new topic..click it and you will be in post mode.

BTW, welcome to FABO.

Ian.
 
wjajr,

Ok..I will use this bolt and see what happens.

Here is a pic below. I seem to be missing these two bolts circled. I have these others that seem to fit but maybe a bit long. If i reverse their direction, the bolts will stick out slightly in back. is this ok or will they be bumping into something ?

stub%20axle0001-L.jpg
 
The steering arm (ball joint) to knuckle bolts are 3" long.
The idler arm bolt has cotter pin but and no washers .If your has no hole for a cotter pin you could drill one or use red loctite.
 
William,

Has Ottawa warmed up yet ? I remember walking around Dows lake in very early April in shorts and a T. We left in '89.

I have the right length but the wrong type because in the picture they should take a cotter pin as well. I would probably be smarter if I oriented them the other way so the ends hang out back.

The bugger with red is that you you usually need heat to break the grip. I was thinking blue or even lock nut washers.

Wish I knew where that damn;t idler arm bolt went to.

Part of the challenge in this rebuild is finding things :) We have shuffled things around so ofter..arg.

Thanks
ian.
 
The bolts you have pictured in the photo should be the bolts you have circled in the drawing unless you are mixing / matching bolts/ spindles/ ball joints which are incompatible.

On my 67 drum spindles, one of the two holes is tapped, the other is not. It seems to me one bolt might be shorter than the other, but this may not be true on disc spindles

my drum brake bolts do NOT use cotter pins, but mechanical locking nuts just as you have in the photo
 
67dart273,

Thank you. This boosts my confidence to go forward which will be tomorrow.

Ian :)
 
Bolts to arm- any grade 8 will work, as long as 2 threads sticking out of the self-locking nut.

Idler- it gets crazy and frustrating here. Most Autozone, Advanced, Napa are wrong. Took me 3 trys on a Duster, and a Buddy 4 trys on a Charger to get the correct one. Cotter pin. Or a locking nut, the bolt should not be spinning. And it needs washers inside the k-frame. It is a pain.
 
green 1...I thought the gap that was left when I placed the idler are in position looked large but I racked that up to the time frame from removing the thing..where in heck did I put those..

thank-you.

ian.
 
wjajr,

Ok..I will use this bolt and see what happens.

Here is a pic below. I seem to be missing these two bolts circled.


OK, good. These are what I called ball joint attachment bolts. We are on the same page.
 
I don't know where this pic came from but those bolts and nuts are going the wrong way. You will notice the bolts have thin heads. They are made to fit from the spindle side out to the ball joint with attaching nuts.
wjajr,

Ok..I will use this bolt and see what happens.

Here is a pic below. I seem to be missing these two bolts circled. I have these others that seem to fit but maybe a bit long. If i reverse their direction, the bolts will stick out slightly in back. is this ok or will they be bumping into something ?

stub%20axle0001-L.jpg
 
I don't know where this pic came from but those bolts and nuts are going the wrong way. You will notice the bolts have thin heads. They are made to fit from the spindle side out to the ball joint with attaching nuts.

not on my car they didn't...............my shop manual shows the same, here's a pic, this is a 66 valiant with drum brakes......those are the bolts for the steering knuckle/lower ball joint.......
higgs
 

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