Need help timing dodge 360

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chasonmarose

chasonmarose

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Hey guys my build I just finished is a dodge 360 these are the specs of the motor

360 bored .040 over to 367 cubes
KB 107s stock crank and rods crank turned .020 over
Heads are cast iron 2.02 1.60 ported and flowed to the max
Holley strip dominator intake high rise
Holley street avenger 670cfm electric choke carb
Comps thumpr camshaft 227/241 at 0.050 107 duration
Milidon high volume oil pump 80psi cold 30 psi idle 1000rpm
Distributor is HEI style with vacuum advance
Transmission 727 2500 rpm stall convertor
Rear end 9.75 12 bolt 4.11 gears posi
Flowtech headers 1 5/8" tubes to 2 1/4 dual exhaust with h pipe into flow master 40's

This set up is in a 1/2 ton long box single cab. Just trying to time the motor and get it to perform as good as I can. Also wondering what a rough estimate of horsepower it would have. I know the cam isn't the best choice probably but the rpm range is 1500-5800 rpm so my convertor throws me into the range very quickly. If there's a different cam for this set up let me know what u think would be the best for this set up. I tried the timing right now at 16 initial and another 20 degrees mechanical to give it 36 total timing hook the advance up it pulls 50 all together. Doesn't seem to perform as well as I hoped.. Any info muchly appreciated!!
 
Start out setting the total advance at 2000-25000 to 34° - 36...

Then tune from there...
 
U have the timing right in the ballpark, 16 initial and 36 total , and if u care about some gas mileage I see no reason to disconnect the vacuum advance. with a non lightweight vehicle I think the slugishnes is the race intake, go dualplane, like ld340 or performer rpm. I guess around 375 hp. read sparkplugs for carb lean or rich
 
I think a good duel plane intake would really help more than anything . but get your timing right is first on the list .
 
set the initial with "the vac gauge method" which is keep advancing the dist (at idle) till you reach the highest in hg on the vac gauge on manifold vacuum all the while reducing the idle speed back to its lowest hot idle speed that it will idle at (adj the mixture screws also as needed) then back off the DIST till the in hg on the gauge drops 1". then check the timing & this is your ideal initial IF it will crank over with the initial set at that amt when hot (if not then reduce the TIMING on the dampener 1 degree (not 1" in hg on the vac gauge) & retry.. With this # in hand (say 20 for instance) then shorten the slots (the $25 FBO plate is the fastest) so that you have 35 total (initial+slots) & this amt is with the vac can capped. then toss the heavy dist spring with the elongated loop on one end & sub in a mr gasket or MP light spring for it instead this'll get you started for springs & you want a combo that keeps you under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest (most likely to ping) day & there is silent ping so give yourself a cushion (stay aways back from audible pinging) plus gas is crap & octane varies & it ain't gettin any better. so you may need to go lighter or heavier on springs & with the elongated loop spring tossed your new combo advances in a linear rate so you can sub in a lighter or stiffer spring for either one of em THEN hookup the vac adv (I'd go with ported) & adj the tip in point with a 3/32" allen wrench staying aways (same as before) under the pinging point on your hottest/driest day under everyday driving conditions of varying RPM/load (throttle). CCW slows the curve onset. For the dist springs Ace hardware has springs so you can get it dead on. initial/total/springs/can IN ORDER Any pinging you can hear is WAY too much and you dont want the dist to start advancing any less than ~100 or so RPM above what your hot in gear idle speed is & that is what the eng will see at the stoplight. Holler with any Q's and good luck. PS I had 18 initial on a bone stock 83 318 so I know you can use more. check your jetting also but with jetting in the ballpark then finalize timing then finalize jetting
 
I'm not too familiar with how to jet the carb. I am burning rich for sure I pulled plugs and they are black with a wet look and smell like raw unburned fuel for sure how do u go about jetting the carb?
 
That thing should like all the timing you can throw at it. Probably around 20* initial and 34-36 total all in by around 2500-3000. You will need to find a way to limit total because it will be high when you pull in so much initial. If the distributor has adjustable mechanical advance, you can do it that way. If not, you can drill a small hole in the breaker plate and put a screw in it in just the right spot. That's what I did to my GM HEI style distributor in the 351M engine in my Ford truck. Worked good.
 
Fuel dripping in from carb? Float level set properly? Can you kill engine turning the idle mixture screws in all the way.

It should idle under 1000 rpm without much issue. If it can't something is wrong.
 
X3 performer RPM manifold will help a lot. It matches youe cam better
 
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