Need some input

-
340RULES

340RULES

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Messages
84
Reaction score
4
Location
Georgia
Hello all,

New member here, appreciate you viewing this thread. I'm at a cross road with what to do, here is my decision:

Apparently the NEW 3200 stall is crap, it engages as soon as D is selected, "OEM", therefore torque doesn't start actually hitting until 4000 plus rpm. My cam wasn't my choice, new lower end when I purchased, 292/509 -purple, I believe its to much for the 340, 30 over, J heads, 650 DP installed now. Also, the TCI hits hard in second and third, great feeling, but I went with 323 posi. Now, the problem, TQ is crap off the line, actually can't burn if I wanted even if I powered braked! what would you recommend to change, the Stall or cam? I know if I went with a 391 it would be a different car out of the hole, but I really like the 323 for weekend driving, etc. I would like to wake it up without changing gears if possible??? Please feel free to comment, sorry if I left out any info in determining your factoring. Thanks

Tracey
 
First thing would be to make sure your engine is tuned properly. Secondly, torque converter, in order to get one that will work as desired is to contact manufacturers like PTC or others that custom build your converter based on application, vehicle specs like engine, cam, weight, gearing and intended usage.
 
With that cam & gear, a proper converter is really essential. PTC, Dynamic & Ultimate are just a few of the top shelf converter builders. May want to give them a call with all your details and get a recommendation.

One other issue you may be dealing with is retarded initial timing and a poor curve? If you know what it is, post it and we may be able to help in that regard.
 
Time is set at 35 thru the entire rpm range, mechanical secondaries. Haven't had it on a dyno, my mopar contacts here rode with me and believe the car is between 330-360 hp, therefore I would put the TQ probably at square when it comes on. I've read about 400-600 less regarding the proper stall, that kinda goes against 3500-3800??
 
340RULES said:
Time is set at 35 thru the entire rpm range, mechanical secondaries. Haven't had it on a dyno, my mopar contacts here rode with me and believe the car is between 330-360 hp, therefore I would put the TQ probably at square when it comes on. I've read about 400-600 less regarding the proper stall, that kinda goes against 3500-3800??
Click to expand...

Reading and guessing is your enemy, so to speak, it is truly best to call one of the manufacturers and give them all of your specs and see what they recommend for stall. Every car is going to react differently.
 
I agree, just wanted to touch base with all you more experienced mopar scholars before I went that route.
 
Just got off the phone from PTC, per their direction am going to go with the super street 3200-3500, maybe a tad more. I was told this should wake up my car especially with the combo I currently have, I will keep you updated on the results, should know by later next week. Thanks guys
 
When was hte cam put in? Who did it? If it wasn't degreed or put in advanced it will be soft in a 340, and damn near blah with 3.23s regardless of the convertor. Before you order a convertor I'd verify the engine is right. A compression test will give you an idea of what it's doing. Sounds to me like it's more of a power issue first, then a mismatch in gear/torque convertor.
 
Moper,

The compression is 10.5 to 1, if what you mentioned is true why does it start pulling really hard at 4000?? Thats out of my area of expertise, which is very limited
 
Is the distributor locked out at 35* or does it have a mechanical advance assembly.

Total timing method SUCKS on street driven cars!!!

I'd make sure it has at least 20* initial on it and it may want as much as 25*. As long as it starts without kicking back, run as much as you can. Then dial in the remaining mechanical to hit your total number.

If it's been total timed and has less than 20* initial, that may be where some of your issue is coming from.

Like Moper mentioned, the cam install centerline may be an issue if it wasn't degreed. The 509 is a good cam, but, for street driving the 484 is a better choice. The 484 usually makes better power everywhere except the last 500 rpm of the range.

What Intake? If it's a single plane, that's another area where it will suffer badly down low.
 
340RULES said:
Moper,

The compression is 10.5 to 1, if what you mentioned is true why does it start pulling really hard at 4000?? Thats out of my area of expertise, which is very limited
Click to expand...

Is that calculated to 10.5 or the pistons are "10.5:1 pistons"?
That's exactly what a cam that's not installed properly would do... Because it's designed to make use of inertia of the intake and exh gasses in a running engine. The old design, larger cams have a lot of overlap. The .509 is well known to have a ton of duration for it's lift, and as a result it has a ton of overlap. If you can get the intake valve closed earlier it will wake up to some extent and the "trick" was to install it at least 4° advanced. The other issue is quality - I haven't used and MP cam in years because they are terribly manufactured. Teh last 509 I checked was off 8° from advertised... Never mind wanting to advance it. Out of the box it was 8° retarded. Personally, I'd sell the .509 and put in something that was designed in the last 5-10 years. You'll get a MUCH more responsive engine.
If you do a compression test and the readings are in the 95-120psi range either the cam is out, or the compression isn't a true 10.5:1. I also agree with Cracked - the timing is also not helping... but first things first...
 
Its locked at 35, had to lock it in order to run decent. 509 sounds hot but is 40 yr old technology, the 484 would have been my first choice also, variable and not ancient. I'm running a single plane rpm. If I try to put 16-18% at idle it doesn't even register! I'm finding out total timing sucks, hence my current problem. Lets say I also do a cam change with the TC change, what would that do?
 
A Roll Tide welcome to FABO to ya!

You didn't say what car so I assume it is an A body. My 340 has that cam (purple 508 I think) and not as much compression. Your HP estimate is probably close. The car ran pretty good once the cam started working at 2500 or so. What they are saying about the cam being off - degree may be the culprit.

The 340 would smoke 275 DRs with a line lock in 2nd and it had a converter with about 2500-2700 stall. Your locked in timing may also be the problem at low end.
 
airwoofer said:
The 340 would smoke 275 DRs with a line lock in 2nd and it had a converter with about 2500-2700 stall. Your locked in timing may also be the problem at low end.
Click to expand...

I think tune is the major culprit here, I agree it should roast the tires. I can roast mine starting in second and shifting to third with my "teen".

After a good tune and with the addition of a good stall it really should get that car moving.
 
Thanks for all the advise, converter is on its way. I'll give that a try, then check for tune again, then 484 "my choice" variable will be dropped in. I will let you all know the results. Enjoy and have a safe weekend
 
I would go with less cam. Its gonna be soggy with 323 gears. How tall are the rear tires ?

The car wakes up at 4000rpms because thats were the cam starts working. Even the 484 is 40 y/o tech. Try something newer, Lunati Vood, Comp Cams XE etc. Its hard to beat any of the 268 cams for a streeter.
 
AdamR,

low profile tires, I'll check and get the exact height. I agree with your choice of cam, that may well be the next step, I will know tomorrow if the PTC (3500) wakes this up..
 
Update, I just drove the car for the first time with my new PTC 3500, also first time I've driven with a higher stall. The car rocks out of the hole now, the 8-3/4, 323 posi really bark now, easy to lay down yards of tread marks. I have a Trans cooler that should help keep my TCI in running order. Its going to take some time to get used to this new set up, does anyone have any other suggestions, I would like to get in the 13 to high 12's if thats possible? Should I go with 3:91's, comp 268-272 variable?? any help as always is appreciated. At least now I'm not embarrased to leave a car show. Fun stuff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top