Need to know stat...m-body 8 1/4
- Thread starter Wilnutt
- Start date
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Well I wasn't sure what a M-body was until I looked on Allpar. According to them F, M, and J bodies are all identical. That being said it should be a direct bolt in. I also compared track widths to verify this and again according to what I found on Allpar's website both A-bodies and M-bodies show identical 58.5" rear track widths. I couldn't find anything on the spring mounting pad width so this may be different but that will be minor to change. As far as them handling 350 hp. I think you should be safe there from everything I've read. I've read where several guys that say they're running that much and having no trouble with them. I ran one in my old Dakota that I raced for 12 yrs. on weekends. It wasn't 350 hp. More like 280 hp. but the truck weighed alot more than an A-body so that makes up for alot. I never had any problems with it. Sold it with 90,000 miles on it still going strong. As far as price goes. The 8-1/4 goes for $150-$300 complete usually.
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krabysniper
Guest
Identical track widths do not necesarily mean identical rear end widths, wheel offset and widths can play into those figures.
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Ace
Guest
krabysniper said:
Huh? We're talking about a rear/axle housing here, not how many different combinations of tires and wheels can you come up with to get a different stance on the car. I believe the poster's question refers to the flange-to-flange, dimesion "A" in the chart below, not what wheels and tires might work. Track and perch widths are different. I had an F(M/J/whatever)-body rear 8.25 housing in my Duster when I got it. It is certinly not a direct bolt in and I can tell you from personal experience it does not fit correctly even after you move the perches to 43"! Too wide for tire clearance without extreme rear lift or obscene amount of backspace.
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/diffchart.shtml
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krabysniper
Guest
Hey Ace, YOU weren't talking about anything here, so STFU, and thanks for demonstrating AGAIN what an
you truly are.
I stated that the track width can be the same, even though the rear axle housings may be different lengths, because with the right combo of wheel widths and offset to rear end housing width you can come up with identical track widths, you obviously DON'T know the difference between TRACK WIDTH and AXLE HOUSING WIDTH. In your rush to rant and attempt to make it seem like I don't know what I am talking about you foolishly showed YOU didn't know what I was talking about, all because you don't like me, (don't bother denying it Ace, your prior posts say it all, both here and at that other site you cried about) Grow up Ace.
Fishy stated that the TRACK WIDTHS were the same, NOT that the housing flange to flange width was the same. Next time stay out of a conversation until you KNOW what WE are talking about.
Ace conveniently VERIFIED what I was stating, that an M body may have the same track width yet the rear end housing widths are different, this would be due to differing wheel widths and back spacing. Thanks Ace for PROVING I was correct (although I already knew I was).
you truly are.
I stated that the track width can be the same, even though the rear axle housings may be different lengths, because with the right combo of wheel widths and offset to rear end housing width you can come up with identical track widths, you obviously DON'T know the difference between TRACK WIDTH and AXLE HOUSING WIDTH. In your rush to rant and attempt to make it seem like I don't know what I am talking about you foolishly showed YOU didn't know what I was talking about, all because you don't like me, (don't bother denying it Ace, your prior posts say it all, both here and at that other site you cried about) Grow up Ace.
Fishy stated that the TRACK WIDTHS were the same, NOT that the housing flange to flange width was the same. Next time stay out of a conversation until you KNOW what WE are talking about.
Ace conveniently VERIFIED what I was stating, that an M body may have the same track width yet the rear end housing widths are different, this would be due to differing wheel widths and back spacing. Thanks Ace for PROVING I was correct (although I already knew I was).
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Ace
Guest
Bite me Kraby. The answer is in the measurements I posted. Eveyone knows you are the renowned expert on everything. That's why you cannot answer a simple question without trying to confuse the issue with your h0rsesh1t about track widths and backspacing.
Willnut just wanted to know about measurements and fitment of a part. As usual you just confused the issue with all your expert knowledge. Then you get huffy when someone who actually understands the question and knows the answer makes you look stupid. Again.
:butthead:
Willnut just wanted to know about measurements and fitment of a part. As usual you just confused the issue with all your expert knowledge. Then you get huffy when someone who actually understands the question and knows the answer makes you look stupid. Again.
:butthead:
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Yeah Wilnutt it looks like it will stick out an extra 1.5 inches on each side. Also your spring perches will have to be moved in 3/4" on each side. Thanks to Kraby for pointing out track width wasn't the all important point in question. And also thanks to Ace for the link to the chart he posted. I'm going to have to save that one to my favorites.
I don't know what kind of car you have Wilnutt but you can do some measuring and see if you have an inch and half to spare on each side. Most likely you will need rims with offset to accomodate for it though.
I don't know what kind of car you have Wilnutt but you can do some measuring and see if you have an inch and half to spare on each side. Most likely you will need rims with offset to accomodate for it though.
Aaron
Well-Known Member
Thats pic's funny.
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Ace
Guest
Yeah, just like the person who posted it! :finga: :toothy8:
wow!!wait a sec..right now i have teh 7 1/4...so it would be less than 1.5" right..i was comparing 8 1/4 to 8 1/4..on the chart it says the 7 1/4 are longer than the a-body 8 1/4? so it's be less than 1/2 an inch on each side?..that sounds good right?should i go for it?
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Ace
Guest
Which 7.25? The the 63-72 or the 73-76?
moper
Well-Known Member
You may want to look into a Ford Expolorer 8.8 too. I havent done it, but I hear they are very close. The only thing I see might not work is the spring perches may be designed for the isomeric(sp?) rubber mounted leaf springs. ALl that menas is the hole to align the rear on the spring bolt is like 1.25" in diameter, as opposed to 5." I took 1/8" thick washers, drilled the right hole size in them, and welded them into the larger holes. Works fine, the car's running 12.0s with a 530hp 418 now.
would like to stay mopar,anyone know if it'll fit now??? 71' demon..has a 71' 7 1/4....i'm thinkin' it just might..just don't wanna drain $200...but it's $200 complete...but i'd have to redrill the axles and drums for teh SBP, and chop teh driveshaft
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Ace
Guest
You can make just about anything work if you don't mind a little cuttin' drillin' and welding. I had one in my '74 Duster and it worked with 255/60-15s, but had to raise the rear for tire clearance with the wheels it has and I didn't like the way it looked. I'd say go for it, cause it's going to be pretty close in overall width to what you have now.
Let me know if anyone wants another one, cause I still have the one that came out of my Duster sitting in the garage with the perches already moved, and painted up real nice. Anyone that wants it can have it for free if they just come pick it up!
Let me know if anyone wants another one, cause I still have the one that came out of my Duster sitting in the garage with the perches already moved, and painted up real nice. Anyone that wants it can have it for free if they just come pick it up!
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krabysniper
Guest
Wilnutt, You could probably get away with using it, although you MIGHT have to get different wheels for the rear with more back spacing, that is what I did to make my B body 8 3/4 rear work in my 73 Dart (I further improved wheel well lip to tire spacing by narrowing the rear end {myself} by 3/4 inches on each side. Guess I just don't know anything, eh :shaking2:
you are.
What's the matter, Paul, spend to much time in the fAIRy force, so you gotta come here and smell up the threads with your drival.
I am not, and do not, confuse anything.
Willnut asked "what would i need to do to make a m-body 8 1/4 fit?"
Fishy replied with a comment about the track widths being the same.
I stated track width should not be used to make a decision on whether it would fit and why.
Then you, with your weak ego brought on by the fact that you spent too much time in a division of the military that requires 6 guys to do what it takes 1 guy in ANY of the other armed forces to do, felt a need to jump in and act like the rear of above pictured animal.
As far as your statement "the answer is in the measurements I posted"
NO, it isn't.
You posted a link to a chart that DOES NOT list an M body rearend housing flange to flange width.
You DID NOT post a FLANGE TO FLANGE measurement of the M body rear housing.
The only part of your post at all, aside from the link, that was useful to the guy was the statement that your piece of crap had an M body rear in it when you got it and it didn't fit well at all.
Had you left it at that, instead of trying to make your opinion of what I posted known, there would have been zero problems. But you are ignorant and you had to prove it. So, NOW, WHO LOOKS STUPID? That's right, you should be looking in a mirror when YOU say that.
Owning a, c body, and a couple of dodge pickups, and one Duster (which you have only owned a little more than a year) does NOT make you the premiere expert on mopars. I have lived and breathed mopars ALL of my life and I am no expert, so don't even begin to pretend you know more than everyone else.
I will make a deal with you, apoligize and I will forgive your mistake. Otherwise do not respond to ME, do not comment on ME or ANYTHING I post, do not refrence ANYTHING AT ALL in regards to me, NOT EVEN INDIRECTLY, and I will reciprocate in kind, then nobody will have to deal with your crap, and I won't have to get nasty towards you. If you have some sorta personal beef with me, come on up to Fargo and we can deal with it in person, otherwise as I originaly stated, STFU.
You further demonstrate what aAce said:
What's the matter, Paul, spend to much time in the fAIRy force, so you gotta come here and smell up the threads with your drival.
I am not, and do not, confuse anything.
Willnut asked "what would i need to do to make a m-body 8 1/4 fit?"
Fishy replied with a comment about the track widths being the same.
I stated track width should not be used to make a decision on whether it would fit and why.
Then you, with your weak ego brought on by the fact that you spent too much time in a division of the military that requires 6 guys to do what it takes 1 guy in ANY of the other armed forces to do, felt a need to jump in and act like the rear of above pictured animal.
As far as your statement "the answer is in the measurements I posted"
NO, it isn't.
You posted a link to a chart that DOES NOT list an M body rearend housing flange to flange width.
You DID NOT post a FLANGE TO FLANGE measurement of the M body rear housing.
The only part of your post at all, aside from the link, that was useful to the guy was the statement that your piece of crap had an M body rear in it when you got it and it didn't fit well at all.
Had you left it at that, instead of trying to make your opinion of what I posted known, there would have been zero problems. But you are ignorant and you had to prove it. So, NOW, WHO LOOKS STUPID? That's right, you should be looking in a mirror when YOU say that.
Owning a, c body, and a couple of dodge pickups, and one Duster (which you have only owned a little more than a year) does NOT make you the premiere expert on mopars. I have lived and breathed mopars ALL of my life and I am no expert, so don't even begin to pretend you know more than everyone else.
I will make a deal with you, apoligize and I will forgive your mistake. Otherwise do not respond to ME, do not comment on ME or ANYTHING I post, do not refrence ANYTHING AT ALL in regards to me, NOT EVEN INDIRECTLY, and I will reciprocate in kind, then nobody will have to deal with your crap, and I won't have to get nasty towards you. If you have some sorta personal beef with me, come on up to Fargo and we can deal with it in person, otherwise as I originaly stated, STFU.
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Ace
Guest
:roll: Sheesh, lighten up. What is your problem? FYI, I've owned many Mopars thoughout my life, including everything from what you listed to a 67 Coronet, a 69 Bee, a /6 72 Duster, two other CBody's (70, 72) and a 2002 Sebring. Not that I need to justify anything to you. Just answer the question next time, get over yourself and stop with all the drama. You can make all the personal attacks on me and everything I'm associated with all you want. Nobody cares - especially me. :evil4:
mopardad1
Well-Known Member
I have an 8.25 from an 85 Diplomat Cop Car under my 68 Barracuda coupe. Had to move the spring pads in (less than an inch) and yes it does stick our about and inch on each side. Drive shaft had to be fabricated. but if you want to, you CAN put an M 8.25 undar an A body
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