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You're going to need the rest of the axle if you buy an 8.75" diff. That a 7.25" in there now. It's likely that getting a complete axle assembly will be cheaper than piece by piece.
Need to upgrade the diff
- Thread starter Foghorn leghorn
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33IMP
Well-Known Member
If you're gonna put any money into an 8 3/4, an A-body version is the best one to spend it on.
Personally, the 741 small pinion version doesn't bother me, other than r&p (crown) gear selection is poor, and hard to find.
If it's TRULY complete, (brakes, backing plates, drums etc.) that's the one to get. Then you just need shock plates, u-bolts, u-joints, and the driveshaft shortened.
And maybe different rear wheels.
Personally, the 741 small pinion version doesn't bother me, other than r&p (crown) gear selection is poor, and hard to find.
If it's TRULY complete, (brakes, backing plates, drums etc.) that's the one to get. Then you just need shock plates, u-bolts, u-joints, and the driveshaft shortened.
And maybe different rear wheels.
Woody500
Well-Known Member
'That rust'll buff out' if it is just surface rust. You can also take it off w/a piece of Scotch-brite. Be ok if no pits.
If parts weren't available you could do this, if it was still together; you could find the finest lapping compound you can get, put it on the teeth evenly, and turn it for a while to lap it in, & look at pattern, too. Then carefully wipe it all off of both gears & then wipe again with rag & solvent , then use brake clean to get really clean. Don't spray w/ brake cleaner & flush into bearings, unless you then dissemble fully to clean or change bearings or clutches. Then start w/ heavier oil at first.
I used to work at a Military Museum where we sometimes couldn't get the parts we needed & made what we had work.
Pay very little to be able to do all this screwing around.
Foghorn leghorn
Active Member
He was in touch and it is the cone type. Said he will look thru the barn and make sure he has all the parts. Were talking around $200 total. He realizes the cone type isn't the best.
j par
Well-Known Member
Personally, I believe the eight and three quarters are more for the restoration crowd...
Since you had an engine put in, i'm thinking you're not going to rebuild this rear end... You're going to have it done for you and at best, you may put it in???.. and this can be very understandable for a multitude of reasons.I see a kid in your picture.You may not have time.You may not have the ability you may not have the space who knows...
The first axle in my duster was, I believe out of a dakota truck, and the spring purchases were cut off and rewelded for a car, and the bolt pattern was correct.It was just a couple inches too wide.Now, when I spent the money, maybe I could have just had it shortened..
If you think about what you're doing, you're just buying stuff and subcontracting the workout for somebody to fix it...
Or you can get a " good operating" different "brand" axle and subcontracted out and have it fitted for your needs, I e shortened lengthened.. and if you're a real swift and did a lot of studying....You could probably get it with disc brakes on it...
I guess i'm saying just don't pigeonhole yourself to 1 idea...
My-2...
Since you had an engine put in, i'm thinking you're not going to rebuild this rear end... You're going to have it done for you and at best, you may put it in???.. and this can be very understandable for a multitude of reasons.I see a kid in your picture.You may not have time.You may not have the ability you may not have the space who knows...
The first axle in my duster was, I believe out of a dakota truck, and the spring purchases were cut off and rewelded for a car, and the bolt pattern was correct.It was just a couple inches too wide.Now, when I spent the money, maybe I could have just had it shortened..
If you think about what you're doing, you're just buying stuff and subcontracting the workout for somebody to fix it...
Or you can get a " good operating" different "brand" axle and subcontracted out and have it fitted for your needs, I e shortened lengthened.. and if you're a real swift and did a lot of studying....You could probably get it with disc brakes on it...
I guess i'm saying just don't pigeonhole yourself to 1 idea...
My-2...
33IMP
Well-Known Member
There are threads and experts here that can tell you how to make a cone type suregrip work properly again. It IS true that clutch types are more popular and expensive.
Foghorn leghorn
Active Member
Nothing has been decided. I have a hoist at home and was a mechanic for 43 years. My garage at home is well equipped. I would rather have a 8/3/4 ready to go, but they are slim pickens up in Regina Saskatchewan.
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If you want tough, cheap, and expedient, and don't care about brand, the Ford 8.8" axles might be your best bet. They take a bit of modification to fit an A-body though.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
The gist of cone centre repair
this is for the separate side gear and cone type i.e Borg Warner
sorry GM centric but they are using an Australian Borg Warner M78 which was the Aussie Mopar sure grip diff which is a smaller version of some of what you got in the US
this is for the separate side gear and cone type i.e Borg Warner
sorry GM centric but they are using an Australian Borg Warner M78 which was the Aussie Mopar sure grip diff which is a smaller version of some of what you got in the US
Call Cass Eslick (Dr Diff) and tell him what you're wanting to accomplish. I cannot recommend him more strongly. He made DANG SURE before I ever pulled the trigger all my measurements were correct and everything went together perfect. Money well spent!
Foghorn leghorn
Active Member
The biggest problem is where I live. In Regina Saskatchewan, the suregrip stuff is far and few between. I don't have access to all the vendors in the States and shipping would be insane. I will redouble my efforts locally! I do want to stick to a Mopar diff.
j par
Well-Known Member
Good luck...
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