New 383 project - found crank damage

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JAndrea

JAndrea

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My new 69 Barracuda project came with a 1968 383, with intact pistons and cam, and nothing more. So before I started buying crap for it, the plan was to make sure I had a good core first with a clean-and-magnaflux of block and crank, and have the pistons and cam inspected. First things first... The engine spins really nice.

So today I pulled out the Pistons.... All looked really good to my untrained eye. Until I got to piston 8. There was no bearing to be found and the crank was badly scored... Rod didn't look quite as bad. The cylinder walls all looked great imo.

My plan is to build somewhat more than Magnum strength power on a budget. I know I need to get a quality machine shop opinion but just looking for some initial gut reactions to the pics and what I should do. Think the crank is fixable? Lots of machine shop costs, or not too bad?

There is a very complete 69 Charger 383 near me for $700. I know building and assembling all the parts, plus unexpected crank machining, is going to cost more than that.

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I'm no machinist - but that crank looks to me like a throw away... I would pack it all up and go to the machine shop NOW - typically, advice is free and they all love to see some "good" carnage.. (sorry, not meant as a "shot") they'll tell you what your next move should be
 
I totally hear Ya. I would have thought it pretty cool too, if it were my buddy's project ;)
 
I would bet they say the crank looks like it was run without a bearing before you tell them there was no bearing...
 
Just buy a crank kit for it.
 
Take it to the shop with the rods. Let them measure and tell you....
 
Awesome thanks for all the options. Looking forward to this long road trip.
 
GeorgeH said:
I have used these brand of cranks in several projects without issue. Brank x Stockish builds. They were not micro-polished , but the journals check to size without taper.
Click to expand...

I like this option. The entire kit worked out to $355 for me near Minneapolis. It's crazy to think that a simple reconditioning of an old 2 cylinder crank for a 1973 yamaha rd350 costed the same on my last project.
 
I'd throw a 440 crank in it just takes a bit of machine work. I think especially if the goal is 500 or less hp the 431 is the perfect combo I'm thinking of going that way with my cuda. It's 0.030" and 9 cid less than a stock 440 and lighter externally and internally and only 20 cid less than 451 everyone loves to build.

Stock rod length is great for a street motor keeps a tall piston with a decent rod ratio if it's street strip could use 440 rods for even lighter bobweight. With chevy rods you could take the crank out to 3.91 which is the largest I feel a low deck should go.
 
273 said:
I'd throw a 440 crank in it just takes a bit of machine work. I think especially if the goal is 500 or less hp the 431 is the perfect combo I'm thinking of going that way with my cuda. It's 0.030" and 9 cid less than a stock 440 and lighter externally and internally and only 20 cid less than 451 everyone loves to build.

Stock rod length is great for a street motor keeps a tall piston with a decent rod ratio if it's street strip could use 440 rods for even lighter bobweight. With chevy rods you could take the crank out to 3.91 which is the largest I feel a low deck should go.
Click to expand...

Another great option that I've run across only once or twice. Thanks for the great detail. This description helps and makes a lot of sense for what I'm after. If you don't mibd, I'll hit you up with some more questions in PMs when I look into it more.
 
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