Superelbert
Norwegian wood
Just finished putting in a Performance cooling 4-row 22" rad in my '71 Dart, and figured I'd post some pics an info for the benefir of others considering this radiator or simmilar..
Bought the radiator on e-bay for about 280$, which I think was really good value for money.
The radiator fit straight inn with all connections, integral trans cooler included.
Now, this radiator is quite thick, about 4 inches, so the clutch fan I had run previously didn't have enough room. No problem for me as I was going to upgrade to electric fan anyway.
I got a dual 10" fan package of an Audi A6 at the junkyard. The cowling was to deep, so I had to trim it down with a saw, which was easy enough. I allso had to move one fan-motor inward by inserting some washers on the bolts joining the fan to the cowling attachment point.
I bought one of those in-line thermostat adapter sand spliced it in to the lower coolant hose. The thermostat is a dual switch job off the same Audi A6 with two switches that comes in at different temperatures, I use one switch for each fan. I run relays between the thermoistat switch and the fan as the fans draw to much cuurrent to be switched directly.
As you can see from the picture, the water pump pulley is the part that is sticking out the furthest from the engine, so this sets the limit for clearing any fan you might wish to put in. Fortunately, the pulley just fit between the two fan motors of the fan-package I had.
Allso, pay attention to the power consumption of any electric fan you install!
First tip is to hook the fan power-supply, via a fuse of course, to tyour alternator, NOT the battery. If you hook it up from the battery, all the current drawn by the fan(s) will be drawn through the dashboard battery charging ampere meter (if you have this). This can lead to two things:
Your ampere meter might overheat due to all the current passing through, and it will allso put additional strain on the bulkhead connectors and internal wiring, components which are apparently a somewhat weak design in these old cars.
Allso, you will not se the true charging current / draw to and from your battery.
My original alternator was just not strong enough, so I bought a 100 amp tough-stuff square back alternator from Summit. This alternator had better output, but when Idling, driving slow, which is typically when the fan kicks in, charge is still drawn from the battery to help the alternator run the fans.
Not a problem on short trips, but I have yet to see how this holds up in traffick jams, extended city trafic driving etc.. Worst case, I'll have to go back to a mechanical fan or find an even stronger alternator to avoid the risk of the fans draining the battery.
Hope this is of interrest to anyone out there!
PS.
The alu rad was a big improvement from the stock brass radiator!
Bought the radiator on e-bay for about 280$, which I think was really good value for money.
The radiator fit straight inn with all connections, integral trans cooler included.
Now, this radiator is quite thick, about 4 inches, so the clutch fan I had run previously didn't have enough room. No problem for me as I was going to upgrade to electric fan anyway.
I got a dual 10" fan package of an Audi A6 at the junkyard. The cowling was to deep, so I had to trim it down with a saw, which was easy enough. I allso had to move one fan-motor inward by inserting some washers on the bolts joining the fan to the cowling attachment point.
I bought one of those in-line thermostat adapter sand spliced it in to the lower coolant hose. The thermostat is a dual switch job off the same Audi A6 with two switches that comes in at different temperatures, I use one switch for each fan. I run relays between the thermoistat switch and the fan as the fans draw to much cuurrent to be switched directly.
As you can see from the picture, the water pump pulley is the part that is sticking out the furthest from the engine, so this sets the limit for clearing any fan you might wish to put in. Fortunately, the pulley just fit between the two fan motors of the fan-package I had.
Allso, pay attention to the power consumption of any electric fan you install!
First tip is to hook the fan power-supply, via a fuse of course, to tyour alternator, NOT the battery. If you hook it up from the battery, all the current drawn by the fan(s) will be drawn through the dashboard battery charging ampere meter (if you have this). This can lead to two things:
Your ampere meter might overheat due to all the current passing through, and it will allso put additional strain on the bulkhead connectors and internal wiring, components which are apparently a somewhat weak design in these old cars.
Allso, you will not se the true charging current / draw to and from your battery.
My original alternator was just not strong enough, so I bought a 100 amp tough-stuff square back alternator from Summit. This alternator had better output, but when Idling, driving slow, which is typically when the fan kicks in, charge is still drawn from the battery to help the alternator run the fans.
Not a problem on short trips, but I have yet to see how this holds up in traffick jams, extended city trafic driving etc.. Worst case, I'll have to go back to a mechanical fan or find an even stronger alternator to avoid the risk of the fans draining the battery.
Hope this is of interrest to anyone out there!
PS.
The alu rad was a big improvement from the stock brass radiator!
