new 42rh a500 rebuilt transmission problem

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T-washer = Thrust washer.
Unfortunately, I cant enlarge your pic enough to point them out. There should be a washer between every 2 parts that are able rotate at different speeds.For instance, between; the pump and the front clutch, the front and the rear clutches, the sun shell and the planetaries, the planetaries and their carriers, the input and the output shafts,etc.Theres almost always a copper face on them. Some are double sided.Some are indexed to one of the rotating members.Some are just piled on, others have to be fit exactly. Some are available in various thicknesses,to adjust end plays. Sometimes if the endplay is too great, even with new parts, a guy has to think outside the box. There is a very small one,almost dead center in that gear train, sitting on the pilot of the output shaft. That one comes in several thicknesses.
Make sure the output shaft is NOT sitting on anything, when its standing up. I use an old rim, and dangle the tailshaft through the center. Dont let the tranny fall over, you could be shopping for a new case. Some fellows have figured out a way to mount the trans to their engine stands.
 
AJ/FormS said:
T-washer = Thrust washer.
Unfortunately, I cant enlarge your pic enough to point them out. There should be a washer between every 2 parts that are able rotate at different speeds.For instance, between; the pump and the front clutch, the front and the rear clutches, the sun shell and the planetaries, the planetaries and their carriers, the input and the output shafts,etc.Theres almost always a copper face on them. Some are double sided.Some are indexed to one of the rotating members.Some are just piled on, others have to be fit exactly. Some are available in various thicknesses,to adjust end plays. Sometimes if the endplay is too great, even with new parts, a guy has to think outside the box. There is a very small one,almost dead center in that gear train, sitting on the pilot of the output shaft. That one comes in several thicknesses.
Make sure the output shaft is NOT sitting on anything, when its standing up. I use an old rim, and dangle the tailshaft through the center. Dont let the tranny fall over, you could be shopping for a new case. Some fellows have figured out a way to mount the trans to their engine stands.
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Ok thank you so much for all the help. Ill keep you all posted but it will be some time because I start back work monday and I still got to find these parts.
 
I have an extra front drum and I may also have some clutch discs and steels and a good used band out of a A500 that I don't need if your interested. The price will be reasonable and since were practically next door neighbors the shipping should be relatively cheap. I Bought the drum for an 87 A500 I was rebuilding for a buddy and they sent the wrong one. Looking at the parts book I see the drum changed in 92 but I've seen 91's with 92 parts and vise versa before so the only way to positively identify it will be match it up by description. Does your drum have 1 or 2 bushings and what is the O.D. (6" or 6-1/4")? How many clutches did it hold?
 
AJ/FormS said:
Nice drawings. No legend.
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You can find the same drawings at www.wittrans.com and it has legends. Just click on the part and the legend will pop up. One warning is to use the orange "back" button on the page right below "product search". If you use the back button on the upper left side of the web page it'll take you all the way back to the main page and you'll have to start over
 
fishy68 said:
You can find the same drawings at www.wittrans.com and it has legends. Just click on the part and the legend will pop up. One warning is to use the orange "back" button on the page right below "product search". If you use the back button on the upper left side of the web page it'll take you all the way back to the main page and you'll have to start over
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Thanks that helps a lot.
 
fishy68 said:
I have an extra front drum and I may also have some clutch discs and steels and a good used band out of a A500 that I don't need if your interested. The price will be reasonable and since were practically next door neighbors the shipping should be relatively cheap. I Bought the drum for an 87 A500 I was rebuilding for a buddy and they sent the wrong one. Looking at the parts book I see the drum changed in 92 but I've seen 91's with 92 parts and vise versa before so the only way to positively identify it will be match it up by description. Does your drum have 1 or 2 bushings and what is the O.D. (6" or 6-1/4")? How many clutches did it hold?
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Mine holds 4 clutches 6in 1 bushing
 

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Do you think the drum and this other part could be sanded or turned and still be ok to use?
 

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What I have done in the past, is to chuck that drum in a lathe,and spin it up slow.You can rough-cut a few thou off. Then with an emery-cloth role and a lathe-file, shave it down.Start with a coarse cloth(80 to 100ish) and finish up with maybe 240ish. That and a new band and youre good to go. Youre only gonna smooth off the worst of it. Dont try and cut/grind the deepest gouges out, thats kind of a waste of good metal. For a street car the band wont see the loss of surface area. It will however,one day in the far future,notice if you smooth the drum down to a significantly smaller diameter.
-As to the piston, I cant get a sense of how much damage is there.But there is a steel sitting next to it, so it shouldnt be an issue.As long as the center register is smooth to seal oilpressure, and the plate side is reasonably flat, and its not cracked, it should be fine. Bear in mind that it spins at or near to crankshaft speed, so if its not real flat you might consider chucking it in a lathe and take out the worst of the high spot(s). A little bevel on the largest diameter of the face would likely be better than cutting the whole thing down if its gonna take a large cut.Also consider that any material that you cut off the face will directly affect your total plate clearance. I used to work for a commercial rebuilder that would routinely cut that plate thinner as well as the pressure plate on the outside of the stack, to help in installing an extra steel with thinner frictions. Voila, extra load capacity.
If you have to pay somebody to do the lathe work, I would, at the very least, consider used parts.If you own a lathe, for me, cutting/polishing it would be a no-brainer.
-Hope that helps
 
AJ/FormS said:
What I have done in the past, is to chuck that drum in a lathe,and spin it up slow.You can rough-cut a few thou off. Then with an emery-cloth role and a lathe-file, shave it down.Start with a coarse cloth(80 to 100ish) and finish up with maybe 240ish. That and a new band and youre good to go. Youre only gonna smooth off the worst of it. Dont try and cut/grind the deepest gouges out, thats kind of a waste of good metal. For a street car the band wont see the loss of surface area. It will however,one day in the far future,notice if you smooth the drum down to a significantly smaller diameter.
-As to the piston, I cant get a sense of how much damage is there.But there is a steel sitting next to it, so it shouldnt be an issue.As long as the center register is smooth to seal oilpressure, and the plate side is reasonably flat, and its not cracked, it should be fine. Bear in mind that it spins at or near to crankshaft speed, so if its not real flat you might consider chucking it in a lathe and take out the worst of the high spot(s). A little bevel on the largest diameter of the face would likely be better than cutting the whole thing down if its gonna take a large cut.Also consider that any material that you cut off the face will directly affect your total plate clearance. I used to work for a commercial rebuilder that would routinely cut that plate thinner as well as the pressure plate on the outside of the stack, to help in installing an extra steel with thinner frictions. Voila, extra load capacity.
-Hope that helps
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Thanks the piston surface appears flat but I will need a pressure plate its cone-shaped. I have the old steels that I replaced and they appeared good when I replaced them. Thanks again you all been a great help.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Am I understanding this right; the steel pressure plate on the outside of the stack is cone shaped?
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Yes Sir its not flat. Like I said it lock down the wheels as if I lock down the brakes. I have a full manual shift kit in it at that time and I thought I was hitting reverse. I know its stupid but im good about learning things the hard way lol.
 
That PP is around a 1/4 inch thick,right?Well if the PP is cone shaped, I imagine so is everything else in there?I cant remember ever having seen a coned PP.I had no idea that was possible
So I am learning stuff right along with you.
 
Oh I almost forgot the over running clutch appeared to fine.
 
Like to thank everyone for your help I was able to get back on the transmission these last couple weeks and all is good this time around ever thing working great.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Thanks for the update.
Well it would sure be nice to know what you discovered, so we can help the next guy with similar issues.
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I believe one of he clutchs in the direct fwd drum did not get lined up and got twisted up in the drum that what was binding the transmission up in drive
 
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