New 75amp alternator..blew fusible link.

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Beatnik

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So I put a new Powermaster 75amp alternator on replacing my stocker. I noticed a burned wire smell (faintly) for the first few times I drove and was thinking maybe my stock alt. wire was a little thin (and old) and not up to the task. Went to start it today, and it fired then popped and died. Popped the hood and had some smoke. Immediately looked at the fusible link and it was HOT so I fried it. Everything else was cool. On my 67 Dart it attaches to the left bulkhead connector of the 3 on the firewall. I disconnected it from the red lead wire and it basically slipped off the bulkhead connector, exposing a length of bare wire. My question is how does a new fusible link attach? It looks like it was part of the connector, and I'd have to replace the whole connector? Attached a picture for reference...or can I just go to NAPA and get a new link?

Also, this nagging wire has been bugging me. Again see picture, it's spliced into my ballast resistor (which doesnt seem right to me). Its a blue/yellow wire? What is this wire? It goes into my ECU connector...

Any help on these two questions much appreciated! Thanks!

Wiring 001.jpg


Wiring 002.jpg
 
It looks like they tapped power for the ECU off the resistor, this is correct (without looking at my book) but usually it's done a little more discretely. Correct me if I'm wrong guys.

As for the fusible link problem. I think your going to have a number of problems because it looks like your still running the mechanical regulator and your stock one wasn't designed for the 75 amps and your running too much juice throught the alt gauge. I would replace the regulator with a later electronic, replace the fusible link (NAPA has them) and make sure all your grounds are good. The e-reg will also be a little better for the ecu, the box likes a steady voltage a lot better than the flicker of the black box.

I have seen a number of dash fires cause from burning up the alt gauge in the dash so definitely don't bypass the link.

Good luck!
 
I almost forgot. To replace the link, pull the connector out and the old one is crimped and just undo it (tiny needdle nose works best) and crimp the new one back in it's place. On the other end I would solder it and shrink wrap it, I like a good connection but a butt connector works too.

The connector has a little tab on one side and usually a small screwdriver or pic is slid in and pull the connector out. Make sure you bend the little tab back out before you slide it back together so it stays in place when you plug it in.
 
Awsome, thanks! So you replace the connector on the bulkhead connector it sounds like? It should be removable?

Also, should have mentioned, I'm running the FBO ignition system. The regulator is an electronic unit, just looks like the old mech. regulator, but if you pull the cover it's a circuit board in there, and the black ECU is FBO as well.

My worry is that I replace the fusible link, and the issue just happens again because my wire is so old (Original everywhere). Should I upgrade my alternator wire connections to thicker gauge?

Thanks again for the ECU connection answer too! I'll tape and conceal it better as long as it's connected correctly.

Thanks again!
 
yes run a larger wire from the alternator to the battery or the start lug on the starter relay.
 
Yea will do! Saw my buddies 360 Magnum alt. in his Duster and the wire is huge compared to mine. I'll upsize it...

I'm concerned something else may have fried too (ballast, or regulator maybe) because if the fusible link is the only thing blown, should it still turnover? I have nothing when I twist the key...
 
Well I bought a new link at the auto parts store and had to splice it into my wires. It works and runs again but it aint pretty. Have original old brittle wire still going into my buldkhead connection. I cant figure out how I could replace just that terminal without having to replace the whole connector. Any ideas? It's just e-taped and spliced into a a new link now...but it runs!
 
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