New A-Body owner needs help

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bobg450

bobg450

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Hi to All,
Spent a day under the back half of my recently acquired '67 383 Dart (tail shaft seal and exhaust) and another day under the front. Fixed a couple of oil leaks and one exhaust leak. Tightened up the steering box and put new plugs in it.

Here's one of my dilemmas- Put a timing light on it last night, but it was not clear what's going on with the timing. Kind of tough getting a good look at the timing marks. Disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged the vacuum line. The three marks on the timing indicator are illegible. Dusted off my timing light I haven't used for 40 years!

I'm just getting to really know this car and my question is- what engine do I have? The engine casting # is 2468130 with an "LL" and mfg date of 4/27/67. Anyone want to chime in and enlighten me with the info? Not hearing back from the PO and would like to know a little bit more about this car. Also would appreciate any advice on the proportioning valve for the brakes. The rear brakes are doing all the work. The PO upgraded the front brakes with a setup from a '71 Dart.

Thanks in Advance, BobG450

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Sounds like a 383 cast number. There is a flat pad just near the right hand side of the distributor that may have some more numbers stamped on it.
As for the timing issue, if it's an early 383 with a forged crank, the balancer will be a nice little narrow one and there will be a timing mark line machined into it. I'd start by bringing number one piston, the first piston on the right hand side of the engine to top dead centre and set your points gap, rotor button etc from there and see how she runs. I'd get a new timing light if your old one is, well, 40 years old and then do the timing again. Cool Lookin ride and I'm sure some other guys on here can offer some helpful tips.
 
Welcome to FABO.

Only one of your pictures are coming through for me...

Have you tried painting your timing marks? I like to paint the mark on the balancer and timing cover mark at 0° with a white out or white or silver paint to help them stand out better under a timing light...

Your engine block casting number checks out to a 67 - 71 383.

Now for your brake prop valve. I would recommend you call "the ram man", he's an expert on the brakes and their components and can help you figure out it if you have the proper proportioning valve or not. He may have the one that you need if you don't have it:

817.691.5996

The Ram Man
7200 Winters St.
Fort Worth, TX 76120

http://www.theramman.com/

He's a good guy to talk to and is very helpful and will explain what you need to know...
 
Thanks 1967FormulaS and KrazyCuda-
I have the thin balancer and will go with the white out advice. I used to use chalk. Yeah, maybe the new strobes are better. This one has a spring you place in the #1 cap spot in series with the plug wire and clip onto it. The induction ones are better. The ignition is electronic, so no points. I've been bumping up the advance and driving it as an interim method. I want 30-34 degrees at 2800 rpm and not as concerned with the timing at idle. If everything is OK, that should fall into place. Does that sound right?
Thanks for the quick responses. I'll go out and grab the stamped #'s.
 
It's a whole lot easier to set the timing with a new offset timing light (<$100). No need to try and read the scale on the plate. Just dial in the offset until the two big marks line up. Much easier to see even in bright day light. Plus, you can check it when all of the advance is in at higher RPM, usually 34 degrees at 2600 RPM.
 
Snake said:
Not related to your post,but thats not the org gauge cluster in your 67?
Click to expand...
Dash is from a '69 'Cuda. My (new) 1970 Duster 340 (Plum Crazy) had a similar dash. They called it the rally pack and the speedo went to 150. Too bad the car would "only" do 138. The open diff. was 3.23. The Dodge has a 2.73 open diff. and could prolly do more than that, but those days are over for me.
 
CUDA69 said:
It's a whole lot easier to set the timing with a new offset timing light (<$100). No need to try and read the scale on the plate. Just dial in the offset until the two big marks line up. Much easier to see even in bright day light. Plus, you can check it when all of the advance is in at higher RPM, usually 34 degrees at 2600 RPM.
Click to expand...
Great advice! There are three lines on the plate. Are they -10/0/+10 or what?
I'll give the old strobe to the Smithsonian Institute or to some old disco club.
Remember the old dwell meters? 28-32 degrees was the magic number!
 
1967formulaS said:
Hey, close build dates. :)
Click to expand...
Your build date is 1 day after I turned 16! Trying to give up dirt bikes and part of the remedy is reconnecting with some good old fashioned Mopar Muscle.

So, the numbers near the distributor are "383" with a "3" under it. I was told it was a 383 from a '69 Charger, but yesterday when I picked up a manifold to pipe gasket I discovered that my 2.5" exhaust system is really 2" for the first 24 inches. That part # is for a 2 BBL 383. The 4BBL 383 part# got me a 2.5" gasket (too big)

Thanks Again guys for all the fast responses!
 
If the rear brakes are doing all the work either the proportioning valve is bad or what you looking at is the brake light fitting and the PO never put a proportioning on when they did the conversion
 
Thanks HEYWODJA, that looks like a good unit. I don't think it can dial in 34 degrees offset like the style CUDA69 described. Having your timing right at idle is one thing, but at idle I'm just idling. At 2800 and up, I want torque and ponies. My old strobe is a Craftsman. Me and a buddy went halfs on it so we could tune up our VW Beetles in the 70's.
 
fklskv said:
If the rear brakes are doing all the work either the proportioning valve is bad or what you looking at is the brake light fitting and the PO never put a proportioning on when they did the conversion
Click to expand...
There is a block on the unibody/frame under the drivers feet with 4 lines going to it. Is that the proportioning valve?
 
bobg450 said:
Thanks HEYWODJA, that looks like a good unit. I don't think it can dial in 34 degrees offset like the style CUDA69 described. Having your timing right at idle is one thing, but at idle I'm just idling. At 2800 and up, I want torque and ponies. My old strobe is a Craftsman. Me and a buddy went halfs on it so we could tune up our VW Beetles in the 70's.
Click to expand...

It is a full digital advance timing light, with a tach built in for setting total advance. Everythimg at your fingertips!

I know this video is about brand X but it is the best instructional video I have found on properly setting total advance for timing.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-k2fdTZP7o"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-k2fdTZP7o[/ame]
 
Nice ride. Power brakes with a big block isn't seen often. Even that small diameter booster is a tight fit. Disc brakes from a 71 would be Kelsey Hayes fixed 4 piston, small rotor. The proportion valve will need to be the correct type. Simple dispersion block for original 4 drum brakes would do as you described.
And yes the OEM timing scale was -10 0 +10 Since that range covered what was needed for OEM tune specs. To use the timing light you have a timing tape would be needed. Advantage is placing a pointer and zero wherever you can see it easily.
 
RedFish said:
Nice ride. Power brakes with a big block isn't seen often. Even that small diameter booster is a tight fit. Disc brakes from a 71 would be Kelsey Hayes fixed 4 piston, small rotor. The proportion valve will need to be the correct type. Simple dispersion block for original 4 drum brakes would do as you described.
And yes the OEM timing scale was -10 0 +10 Since that range covered what was needed for OEM tune specs. To use the timing light you have a timing tape would be needed. Advantage is placing a pointer and zero wherever you can see it easily.
Click to expand...

Just as I thought- the calipers need more fluid to do their job than the old drum brake pistons. Initially I thought that my problem was low vacuum, but 17" should be enough. Actually, the drums are just working before the discs get a chance to.

Yeah, the power brakes and power steering make things more difficult. Had to unbolt the DS motor mount and jack the engine 1" to get plug out over the PS box. Couldn't even get the plug wire off. Wish this car had manual steering and brakes like my '70 duster had.

Good advice on the timing issue. This site and it's members are great!

Thanks for the help!
 
Heywodja said:
It is a full digital advance timing light, with a tach built in for setting total advance. Everythimg at your fingertips!

I know this video is about brand X but it is the best instructional video I have found on properly setting total advance for timing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-k2fdTZP7o
Click to expand...

Hey, Thanks Hey. Looks like I'll be going to Sears real soon!
 
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