New cam in the 5.7

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HemiPar

HemiPar

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Hey all. My son just called me asking how hard it is to change the cam with motor in the car. His car is a 2009 Challenger R/T. It has a super charger with intercooler that we installed last year. I told him what I could remember what all was in the way. But if you guys could help us out that would be great. The reason I ask this is, he and his car are located in Ft Bliss, TX. His plan is to purchase the parts, have them shipped here for us to change it out within a few months. SO all help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
Move on the car:
Grill, maybe bumper
radiator & hoses, A/C condenser,
Fans/Shroud
Belts

remove on the motor:
Accessories (alternator, P/S pump, A/C compressor)
Water pump with heater hose lines
crank pulley
timing cover
oil pump
timing set
coils
valve covers
rocker shafts
pushrods

For the swap:
If you rotate the cam with all that stuff off it will suspend the lifters up in the motor allowing you to pull the cam. When I did mine it worked. you should replace the cam and crank bolts with new factory bolts as they are torque to yield and intended single use. I swapped to 6.1 pushrods for both exhaust & intake, and 6.1 exhaust springs on all 16 valves for the bigger cam. This is really common...
Here is a link to a place with all the cam swap stuff from mopar for cheap. In the part description for stuff it even says what parts you need to do it..

http://www.moparsupercenter.com/engine/index.php?action=s_search&mode=mmyt

there is a hemi specific valve spring tool for in vehicle spring swaps, its pricy, but somebody on the LX forums is making them cheap. I bought one and it worked good. Also make sure you get the correct cam for MDS or non MDS if that is the plan. The MDS lifters can be left in, but need to be disconnected under the intake if its a non MDS cam.

hope that helps,

JOE
 
Ummm... No...

I honestly have no idea where I got it.
But was sure I read it somewhere when I was researching my swap. I could be wrong.

Several of the parts websites list them as "suggested replacement" cheap isnurance for $8...

JOE
 
The rod cap, main cap and cross bolts are TTY...but the cam and crank bolts are listed as std torque fasteners in the factory manual.

Probably best for the OP to double check before wrenching .
 
Rat Patrol said:
The rod cap, main cap and cross bolts are TTY...but the cam and crank bolts are listed as std torque fasteners in the factory manual.

Probably best for the OP to double check before wrenching .
Click to expand...

According to my manual, the cross bolts are not TTY
 
Thanks guys for the info. I am hoping my son does all the research before we tackle this swap. I will lead him in the right direction with your info provided. It will still be a few months before we start the swap. He is in the army and will need to take leave, come home from TX for us to get started. Again thanks for the info.
 
I would reccamemd hardened pushrods for a cam swap given the rpm increase on the Eagle heads.

Keep us posted on the results.
 
Actually you will most likely have to switch to a 6.1 pushrod. I would recommend stock 6.1 pushrods. I would much rather bend a pushrod than bend a valve. As far as a cam swap on a VVT motor. It is not as straight forward as a non-vvt install. Degreeing the cam in during install becomes critical due to the variation in cam timing. Make a mistake and your pistons and valve could be making love to each other....in a not so harmonious way :)
 
Thanks 73duster for the heads up. he is still in the planning stage and parts collecting.
 
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