New Carb problems

-

The Barracuda

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
14
Reaction score
1
I joined this forum to get some advice on a new carburetor I got last year. I own a '69 cuda fastback, with a 340 small block automatic. After almost 40 years, the old carburetor was sputtering and choking and needing either a complete rebuild or a replacement. I went with the replacement as I'm in a small Canadian town and muscle car specialists are hard to find, and I could get my old one rebuilt at my leisure. I went with an Edelbrock Performer series 1406, a relatively straight swap. Now, I fully admit I'm not good with carbs and the tuning thereof so I figured I'd throw this out there to anyone with better knowledge and a possible solution.

The car immediately started running better with the new carb, but when I start off the line from a dead stop, there's resistance on the gas pedal, as if something's preventing it from pressing down all the way. As the car gets moving, I can feather it (lift back and press down again) and get the pedal down a little more until I'm at a sufficient speed. There's nothing wrong when I'm actually moving, but at stop and slower speeds, there's resistance and strong enough to prevent me to put it down to the floor. I'm a little disconcerted with this particular problem as A) it's not fun (can't lay a patch) and B) it's dangerous when I'm trying to quickly pull into traffic. I'm just wondering if the carb was incorrectly installed/tuned, it's a built-in safety feature or my engine just isn't strong enough to turn the tires anymore. Hell, maybe I'm running the wrong carb.

I'm running P245/60R14/98S in the back, a good 9.5" of rubber connecting with the road and P235/60R14/96S in the front. I'm aware they're wide, but my old tires weren't that much smaller and I could still burn them with the old carb. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Take some good clear pics of the carb and linkage as it is installed now.

When he have something to look at we can be of more help.
 
Here's some pictures to help illustrate:
NewCarburetor1-Front.jpg

NewCarburetor2-LeftSide.jpg

NewCarburetor3-RightSide.jpg

NewCarburetor4-Top.jpg

NewCarburetor5-Linkage1.jpg

NewCarburetor6-Linkage2.jpg

NewCarburetor7-Linkage3.jpg
 
try removeing the transmition linkedge. dont drive it just see how the pedel feels. if it feels good thats your problem.
 
try removeing the transmition linkedge. dont drive it just see how the pedel feels. if it feels good thats your problem.

Yeah.....what he said! That's just a mechanical prob.....you'll just have to spend time under that hood moving it by hand and seeing where the resistance is......it could even be your cable. But I really don't think it's anything too deep, that couldn't be figured out in less than an hour.
 
I would get the slide pin for the kickdown linkage from your original carburetor and install it on this carburetor if at all possible. That way the linkage and accelerator cable will be as close to their original positions as possible. You probably have something binding between the two.
 
I had that problem, a new throttle cable solved it. And that was on a 70 duster, in 1974. 4 years, shot.
 
A rusty throttle cable has happend to me too. Not fun if it hangs up at the wrong time.
 
How many return springs do you need? I see 2 plus the kickdown linkage spring. Bear in mind that the primary throttle shaft has a pretty substantial spring of it's own. So that's 3.
 
That return spring under all the linkage is something I have not ntoiced on other cars and looks like it may be the cause of some interfearance. The other one on the outboard side I also never seen.
I would run a double spring pulling the carbs arm foward and delate the two pulling the carbs arm from the bottom rearward.

One other issue is the pumpshot arm should be moved from the outboard slot in the pumps arm lever to the closer one as to help deliver a larger and quicker pump shot when hitting the gas pedal.

You should grab the thottle lever adapter and proper stud for the throttle cable and kickdown linkages. What you have looks very small and is scary to look at. Looks weak and flimsy, possible brakage.

Also, is this cars engine fully warmed up and is the choke fully off when you try to accel. If the choke is not fully open, it will lock out the secondaries.
 
Spring for the throttle lever adapter as pictured on JohnnyDarts car. That will reorient the linkage back to it`s proper position. Great link C130 Chief!
 
-
Back
Top