New gen dodge dart anyone having issues?

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71DodgeDemon340 said:
But there is no reason for these newer cars to be consuming oil. It causes all sorts of problems long term. There is no way using a quart of oil every 1000 miles is considered normal
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There is no ACCEPTABLE reason, I agree, unfortunately it is seemingly becoming very common. The Ecotech GM mill in the Terrains etc., used to be a solid eng. for them, but
now they have oil consumption & timing chain issues, I put a 2.5L Subaru engine in a car I'd checked over for the dealer, it was full & clean when it left..........less than 3500 mi.
later it locked up. The galley feeding the pass. side bank taps the main at the rear of the eng., then the oil has to work it's way back to the frt. of the head, the frt. cam journal
seized & the composite cam sprocket exploded thru' the cover. Subey says 1Qt./1K mi is normal....WTF?
 
Right lol my 95 bronco 351w barely goes through a quart every 3k miles and half of that is probably from the small oil leak
 
TrailBeast said:
You mean the car threw a code that they don't know what it is?
That's scary. :D
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FYI follow up they fixed the issue, but as I am seeing on this car every part is not in stock, and it takes several days for them to get parts.
A battery took 3 days, local Advance Auto had one in stock, but I was not paying $200 for a part that was covered under warranty.
It took another 4 days to get the after run coolant pump in, they called me late on a Friday afternoon said the part came in, called right at closing time said the car was ready for pickup.
I would say the techs are good at repairing the cars, but parts availability suck.

My wife loves this car, I don't drive it, so I do not care, the day it gives her crap and the warranty is out and it cost me out of my pocket, I will fix the car and it will get traded for a new one.
 
sireland67 said:
FYI follow up they fixed the issue, but as I am seeing on this car every part is not in stock, and it takes several days for them to get parts.
A battery took 3 days, local Advance Auto had one in stock, but I was not paying $200 for a part that was covered under warranty.
It took another 4 days to get the after run coolant pump in, they called me late on a Friday afternoon said the part came in, called right at closing time said the car was ready for pickup.
I would say the techs are good at repairing the cars, but parts availability suck.

My wife loves this car, I don't drive it, so I do not care, the day it gives her crap and the warranty is out and it cost me out of my pocket, I will fix the car and it will get traded for a new one.
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I have been seeing that trend as well, as apparently less and less places keep parts on hand and order what they need only when they need it.
Also been seeing the "normal oil consumption" being kind of ridiculous at 1qt per 1000 miles.
 
I agree this is "normal oil consumption " now. Chrysler says 1 quart per 1000 miles in a vehicle with less than 40,000 miles is ok and 1 quart per 750 miles is ok on vehicle over 40,000 starting with the 2014 models. That is hard to tell a customer. Most of the new small engines run 0w20 which is about as thick as water (lol). Then add 5000 mile oil change internvals in the mix and its a complete cluster ****. Deal with stuff all the time at work. Wrangler 3.8 engines were no better.Cylinder walls out of round and burn oil. Customer doesnt check oil level in between oil changes and wind up damaging crankshaft bearings . I actually have 2 of them to put in next week, 1 customer pay and 1 under "goodwill warranty" Both engines have less than 100k on them.
 
Lol! Love that "goodwill" stuff on the tech end, we're already dealing w/10yr-100K on our PT warranty, then they have extended bumper to bumper for the same, THEN they
goodwill past that for certain loyal customers, AND they extended the engine warr. on the ones part of the "inspection" campaign to 120K. We're doomed to work warranty
time for an eternity, and PDI's are now mandatory drive & inspect procedures taking the tablet along for the ride & taking pics of the underside including evap hose routing
etc........over 3mi. minimum road test distance, not like traffic/construction ever holds things up..lol!
And yes, cars have been basically so good for so long, that ever checking the oil is a mystery to 3/4 of the people out there driving today, just drive it 'till the next oil change.
This step backwards is not a welcome one for anybody............................
 
Quick update: took the dart in for 1,000 mile oil check and it burned 2.5 quarts of oil in 1,000 miles, they pulled plugs and #3 cylinder had oil soaked plug, bore scoped it and saw that the bore was scored and piston ring looked to be broken causing the scoring. They are keeping it till they decide what they will do but they definitely wouldnt let it be driven any longer.
 
O.K. thats good news. You should be getting a replacement longblock. There is no shortblock available at this time. Have seen this issue several times, issue at the engine plant breaking rings while installing piston assemblys. There is a STAR case on this issue. You can tell the dealer that. Dont think u will have any issues with them on this. And then you will have a brand new engine again!!
 
I had a Suburban that would electrically "blink" for a split second coming to a stop down an off ramp. IT turned out to be a loose positive battery connection. The cable was a 3 piece sandwich of clamp, PCM lead, and starter lead held on by a common bolt. My 2012 6 speed Dodge Caravan had 2 "$5 washers" replaced in the axles (I think) that caused it to bang on shifts up or down and act crazy in reverse up an incline. I thought it needed a new trans so I took it in but it was 3 months out of 5 year warranty. I cringed when they called it fixed and gave me the bill of $309. That wasn't so bad ($149 diagnostic fee was part of it) so it must have been a .5 job with a PCM update after all as it drives and shifts like a new car now. If my wife wasn't so dependent on her mommyvan, I would buy her an older cruiser that had A/C and everything working, along with a 'user serviceable' motor and trans.
 
I believe you problem is the auto shut down being activated by the alternator circuit. This will occur for a while then it will pop the auto shut down fuse. If this occurs you can replace the 20 amp fuse with a 25 amp to get it home. Check and replace the alternator getting bad. Just had one here last week . Same issue for a while then the fuse popped. Took a while to diagnose. I believe it was fuse 20 But I may be wrong.
 
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