New owner of a 1976 Plymouth Duster

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Riddler

Riddler

Project EH-Body
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
2,809
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668
Location
Windsor, ON, Canada
My name is Joe and I'm in Windsor, ON, Canada. I recieved the car as a gift from my wife. Best wife in the world. :) The car needs quite a bit of work. The body is solid but needs a drivetrain. Currently sitting between the fenders is a 318 with 904 and a small pumpkin. I'm still trying to decide what to build for it.

I'm not sure how these cars ride with a big block 440 or a small block 360?

I'm looking to build the car for street use with some drag runs once and a while.

I'm thinking 360, 727 with an 8 3/4" or 9".

Riddler
 
Welcome.

I personally, seeing as how the car is going to be built for the street, would go with a small block, but thats my opinion as never having driven a big block a body. I am planning on building a variation of the 318/344 stroker BJR racing has a thread on building and backing that up with a 5spd. But forget about me, what is your first interest in the direction you want to take for this car?
 
Hey welcome to FABO.

Weather you big or small block there is tons of help when needed on FABO!!
 
I'll have pictures up tomorrow. Got the car home from the Ohio tonight after a long trip with fun at Customs.

I'm interested in using this car for a cruiser with a few trips to the strip. My brother in law drives an 80 Malibu with a small block making 500hp. So I'm thinking I'll work my magic on a 360 and maybe stroke it out to 383. I'd prefer to drive the car on pump gas (which is 94 here).

A project long will start. First thing's first is to get it down to shell and have it blasted, do some body work and get some mini-tubs in it. Then get the car sitting right. I'm really liking the RMS stuff, so we'll see where that goes.

Riddler
 
Welcome aboard Riddler!

Riddler said:
My name is Joe and I'm in Windsor, ON, Canada. I recieved the car as a gift from my wife. Best wife in the world. :) The car needs quite a bit of work. The body is solid but needs a drivetrain. Currently sitting between the fenders is a 318 with 904 and a small pumpkin. I'm still trying to decide what to build for it.

I'm not sure how these cars ride with a big block 440 or a small block 360?

I'm looking to build the car for street use with some drag runs once and a while.

I'm thinking 360, 727 with an 8 3/4" or 9".

Riddler
Click to expand...

IMO, I'd do the small block, a 360 since there fairly easy to get and use. It's cheaper and easier than a big block swap. The Ford 9 is stronger and very popular with ease of parts, but the 8-3/4 is up to the task with less work involved. Parts are NOT a problem ethier.

Riddler said:
I'm interested in using this car for a cruiser with a few trips to the strip. My brother in law drives an 80 Malibu with a small block making 500hp. So I'm thinking I'll work my magic on a 360 and maybe stroke it out to 383. I'd prefer to drive the car on pump gas (which is 94 here).

Riddler
Click to expand...

A word on stroking a MoPar engine. And a Chevy engine.

First up, the Chevy crowd used the 400 crank in a 350 to make a 383 @ .030 overbored IIRC. They did this because they had no faith in the natural 4oo ci engine. They thought it to weak and just a smog motor.

The Mopar engine only came as large as a 360 To get to 383 cubes would require very custom parts and that is a heavy expense. Since your not doing a inexpesnsive me 2 engine (Chevy), it would be a waste of time putting forth the effort to get 383 cubes when for alot less, you can get ethier the parts one by one or a kit to use a 4 inch stroke crank and turn your 360 into a 400+ cube engine. Now you can out torque the Chevy with the extra crank throw and out HP the Chevy with better heads and the abilty to use a larger cam due to the larger lifter.

A 727 use's more power to turn the wheels than a 904 and is heavier. Food for thought.

Your behind the 8 ball on 2 counts agianst the Chevy. Overall car weight and cost to build. The Duster can come down in weight alot, how much depends on what your willing to live with and do. (Fiberglass.)
 
Would it be better than to use the 318 I have to bore it out to 340 spec. Add a cam, heads and then use the 904 I have?

OR I can get a 360 with 727 attached already and build that. I'm leaning towards getting the 360 with 727.

I guess drivetrain is going to require alot of reading to see what I can do. MY main goal is to get the car disassembled and then do the suspension and chassis stiffening.

Riddler
 
Was out in the car today messing around, I managed to get the glove box open. I found a bunch of NOS Duster stickers still in Mopar packaging. Woot! Also I found the Broadcast sheet! I've never been so happy in my life.

Anyone know what a "316" means for axle? I'm still trying to figure out if this is a 7 1/4" or an 8 1/4" axle.

Riddler
 
Welcome to FABO!

You cant bore a 318 out to a 340. Cylinder walls are not thick enough. You can stroke it to 390 or so though. But I think the 360 would be a better bet.
 
Riddler said:
Was out in the car today messing around, I managed to get the glove box open. I found a bunch of NOS Duster stickers still in Mopar packaging. Woot! Also I found the Broadcast sheet! I've never been so happy in my life.

Anyone know what a "316" means for axle? I'm still trying to figure out if this is a 7 1/4" or an 8 1/4" axle.

Riddler
Click to expand...


I must have just missed you posting this.:toothy10: Here you go.

Mopar axle guide.jpg
 
Riddler said:
Was out in the car today messing around, I managed to get the glove box open. I found a bunch of NOS Duster stickers still in Mopar packaging. Woot! Also I found the Broadcast sheet! I've never been so happy in my life.

Anyone know what a "316" means for axle? I'm still trying to figure out if this is a 7 1/4" or an 8 1/4" axle.

Riddler
Click to expand...

Welcome to FABO Riddler:cheers:
Finding what you just fonud in your glove box is like winning the Duster Lottery!!!
A 7 1/4 has a very small "non round" rear differential cover where as the 8 1/4 has a rounder appearing diff cover.

.......Right on Burntorange stepped up to the plate
 
leblanc - I hope you don't mind but I'm sure I'll be messaging you with questions and such. :)

BurntOrange70 - Huge thank you for that diagram. My car is a factory 318 car and the axle looks like the 8 3/4" one pictured. I'm gonna run out and grab a ton of pictures for everyone and myself. My first goal is to see and document what I have so I know what I need when it comes to building.

Riddler
 
rumblefish360 said:
All ready has the 8-3/4? Whoo-Hooo!
Click to expand...

Well NO, :( After getting right under the car and snapping some pictures I can see bolts holding on a cover. Which in my mind makes it look like an 8 1/4" rear end.

I have found a Dana 60 from a late 70's dodge pickup for 100 bucks. Should I get this or be on the hunt for an 8 3/4?

Riddler
 
You'll spend more money shortening the Dana than you would just getting the right housing for the car. The Dana would be great for holding 650+ HP without breaking a sweat, but is it worth the cost? IMO, no. You can get them brand new from Strange and Moser for about $1500 all set up and ready to rock and roll.
 
Hmm I guess the cheapest method would be finding a FORD (eww yucky, lol) and having that built for my application. I almost want to try and stay all Mopar, but from what I've read a 8 3/4 will cost me about double or more than a Ford 9".

Pictures coming.

Riddler
 
Here are the pictures...

DSC_0226.jpg

DSC_0227.jpg

DSC_0229.jpg

DSC_0230.jpg

DSC_0233.jpg

DSC_0234.jpg

DSC_0237.jpg

DSC_0238.jpg



My first surprise I've foudn while doing some minor cleaning up. Hit the button and moved the passenger seat up and this little guy fell out. Ewww.....

DSC_0241.jpg




So what do you all think? What does it look like I have? Motor, Trans and rear end?

Riddler
 
Well it looks like you have a very nice Duster to start with......but thoes buckes are wrong:-\" and I could hook you up with a pair of black ones correct for your car:toothy10:...........seriously,I'd trade you.........:toothy8:.
 
Honestly I'm not sure what original and whats not. What are these buckets and console from? I see you say the console is from an F body. Whats an A body console look like? What do A body seats look like?

Are these seats for something particular? If I knew more about them and about A body seats I could make a much better educated decistion as to wether or not to trade you.

Riddler
 
Looks like a nice starting point. Looks like a 318 and a 8 1/4 in the rear. Probably has a 904 for a trans. Them seats are 70-71 Seats and are worth some coin. You could get 500-600 bucks for them EZ.

Pull the carpit back and get a look at the floors.
 
I think the console is an F body ( volare/Aspen) but I edited my response beacuse I'm not 100% sure myself
By the looks of the buckets you have,I'd say they are from an early 70's A body or B body.
The A body console I think shouls look like the picture bleow.
I'm not sure if you are looking to redstore your car or just make it nice and drive it.......so don't think what you already have is wrong.....i'm just messin' with ya'.
I am looking for a pair of buckets like the ones you have for my '72 Demon 340 and I do have a pair of '73-76 buckets.

1970-plymouth-duster-340-13%20.jpg
 
I am in no way trying to rip you pul the wool over your eyes (thus the poor judjement of humor) about your seats.......I was just merely showing my excitement over what you have.
here's some pics of the seats I have from a 1975 Dart Sport.
A body seat tracks have sold for close to $300 alone so burntorange isn't exagerating on your early 70's A seats

DSC02812.JPG


DSC02813.JPG
 
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