new valve covers

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72swinger83

72swinger83

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So I just bought a new set of mopar performance valve covers and air cleaner for my 72 318 motor and was wondering if anything special has to be done with regards to the line that runs from the original air cleaner to the valve cover, and if i have to run the pvc valve as well, or of there is a special grommet that goes into where the pvc valve is?

Does that make any sense? or enough sense to understand?

Thanks
Frank
 
You don't have to run the hose from the air cleaner to the valve cover but you do need a breather on one side and the PCV MUST be used on the opposite valve cover so that it vents through the engine. If you don't run a PCV system the engine will gunk up in no time. Could also blow out the crankcase seals and start leaking oil.
 
Also, from my experience if there is no pcv you may get some engine odors in the car.
 
thanks guys, looks like i am going to have to drill these perrty new valve covers out, haha, i already have the rubber grommetts and the mopar breather in the mail, thanks again for the help gotta love FABO

Thanks
Frank
 
Did your valve covers come with the baffle plates that mount below the hole you are going to drill for your breather/pcv?
Make sure you check for clearance with your rockers. They should clear stock vavletrain. I had to trim mine to clear the roller rocker adjuster.
Use the correct high temp lok tite on the screws that hold the baffle plates...you reeaally don't want one falling into the pan!
 
mopar340dave said:
Did your valve covers come with the baffle plates that mount below the hole you are going to drill for your breather/pcv?
Make sure you check for clearance with your rockers. They should clear stock vavletrain. I had to trim mine to clear the roller rocker adjuster.
Use the correct high temp lok tite on the screws that hold the baffle plates...you reeaally don't want one falling into the pan!
Click to expand...


Do you know what size screws to use? I need to add baffle plates to mine.



Wylde1.
 
yea, i think summit did a great job, they sent the plates that you are talking about, where the oil covers go, there are the same plates already there so i assume that i won't have any clearance issues, and yes it is just a bone stock motor for now,

The covers are up to my fathers house now, but i will check on the sizes of the screws if you want me to, but it may be a couple days before i get up there
 
mopar340dave said:
Use the correct high temp lok tite on the screws that hold the baffle plates...you reeaally don't want one falling into the pan!
Click to expand...

Agreed, but you'd be super lucky if it made it all the way to the pan and didn't get jammed up in the crank and rods or get stuck in the lifter valley or jam a rocker arm or lodge in a pushrod bore or - you get the idea
 
well, thats really what I meant...it may be headed towards the pan but who knows what might happen on its way. FOD sux!
 
Wylde1 said:
Do you know what size screws to use? I need to add baffle plates to mine.



Wylde1.
Click to expand...

My car came with a set and they didn't have baffles in them so I took them off and they weren't tapped so I used self tapping screws. Don't know the size exactly but I'd guess they were either # 6 or 8's. I imagine sheet metal screws would work also.
 
The OE screws I got were blunt tipped and had a corner cut out of it.

Lock Tight them !!!
 
do not use the sheet metal screws.
use small self tappers (drill correct size hole STRAIT/PERPINDICULAR)
or machine screws -- drill and tap for these.

use the correct loc-tite - high temp/high strength red 262
if you plan on upgrading to rollers later, mod your baffles before install to avoid the hassle later. that Loctite is pretty permanent.
 
I take it you guys have been around motors at least once before huh? haha
 
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