Newb with a 225 needs assistance

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justthatguy

justthatguy

Josh(69 Valiant)
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
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Location
Danville, VA
Hey everyone, I'm new here, though not new to old cars. I've been around Mopars since birth pretty much. Anyway, I got a 69 Valiant as a first car a few months ago, and I need some help with it. It's always made noise(lifter noise and the clunk going from park to reverse), but now it's making noises that really worry me. It overheated on the express the other day(stuck thermostat), and now it has a number of new noises. The most major noise is a metal on metal grinding noise, which doesn't sound good. It appears to be coming from the general valve area(above the pistons), so I'm hoping it's not serious, but I want someone that actually knows what they're doing to help. The oil light comes on when idling at a light or a stop sign, and I hope that it's just the oil pump. If it helps, all the fluids check out okay. The oil is not white. This car is a daily driver, and I like it, so I'd like to try and fix it. If it is bad, I have another slant, and a 318 poly I could put in it. Thanks for hearing my plea.
 
Metal-on-metal grinding is definitely bad. Without more specificity it's impossible to diagnose remotely (even a youtube video with the sound audible would help). Could be any number of different things. If you're really lucky it's a faulty alternator bearing or something of that nature.

Oil pressure light should not be on, but it doesn't necessarily mean the pump or the engine is bad. If the sender is faulty or the wire is chafed, the light will go on. It will also be a good idea to service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.

As quickly as you can, get the three books described in this thread.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. You'll want to do the Fuel line mod and eventually you may want to do the HEI upgrade as well.
 
I will see if I can get it to make noise next time I drive it, and make a video. Thanks for the greetings everyone.
 
Check your oil for gasoline, it happened to me because of a torn fuel pump diaphragm, if so your fuel pump may be bad. If the oil is too thin (because of gasoline) then the pressure won't build up and the light comes on.
 
I'm gonna take it to the shop. I'll have to see what the mechanic says. My gut says it might be serious.
 
805moparkid said:
sounds like your about to throw a rod... thats gonna be a full motor rebuild...
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S***, that's what I didn't want to happen. My grandpa in typical old guy fashion is saying it's valve noise. I have a 225/tranny from a 63 Belvedere and a 318 poly from another 63 Belvedere. If it is indeed rod knock, I'll drop another one in.
 
It's definitely not valve noise — no way, no how. It's bigger and uglier than that.

'67 or earlier engine won't fit in front of '68 or later automatic transmission (small/early crankshaft counterbore vs. large/late torque converter nose).

'65 or earlier automatic transmission won't work in '66-up car unless you make major changes ('65 steering column or floor shifter needed to operate twin-cable early transmission).

'66-'67 automatic trans will neatly mate '67-down engine to '68-up car. Or, special custom torque converter can be made for the '68-up transmission to allow the '67-down engine to fit.
 
Hmm, well I guess this is the end for the Valiant, unless a running small block were to appear for dirt cheap. I might have to defect to Ford for a driver until I can source another motor. I don't think I could swing a full rebuild at the moment, another slant or a 273/318 maybe.
 
Small block will not fit on \6 K-frame without adaptive mounts.

You ought to be able to find a good used slant-6 for not much money. Use www.car-part.com . First search 1969 Valiant, then search 1980 Dodge Aspen, then search 1985 Dodge D150 truck. Three separate searches. All you'll have to do is use the oil pan and pickup pipe from a '67-up passenger car engine (such as your present engine) to adapt the truck engine.
 
The clunk from P to R is a tell-tale sign of bad U-joints (cheap and easy fix). I boiled over my 69 Slant quite a few times, with no problems. Unless you drove a long ways as a Stanley Steamer, I doubt that hurt it. Try basic things first like check tranny fluid, compression, etc.

Before condemning the engine, as a last ditch effort, disconnect the torque converter and push it back and hold it away from the flex plate with a metal strap. See if the engine still makes a noise without the tranny out of the picture. If so, you can get a good 68+ slant tranny for maybe $0 since lots of people go V-8.
 
The good news for you is people actually give running slants away for(brace yourself) free.
 
Agreed. williaml was just offering a slant and tranny free (northeast). But a 65 w/ cable-shift tranny.
 
Welcome, as you can see this site is great and very helpful
Me :-k well not much of a tec and like you I am here to learn and enjoy
So let me welcome you aboard

Yes, I am a slant six fan and could not have got this far with out these great folks here :cheers:
 

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BillGrissom said:
The clunk from P to R is a tell-tale sign of bad U-joints (cheap and easy fix). I boiled over my 69 Slant quite a few times, with no problems. Unless you drove a long ways as a Stanley Steamer, I doubt that hurt it. Try basic things first like check tranny fluid, compression, etc.

Before condemning the engine, as a last ditch effort, disconnect the torque converter and push it back and hold it away from the flex plate with a metal strap. See if the engine still makes a noise without the tranny out of the picture. If so, you can get a good 68+ slant tranny for maybe $0 since lots of people go V-8.
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I'll give it a going over tomorrow.
 
Probably melted a piston if it was ran for to long when it was over heating. But that happens more when ran drie. And oil pumps spring tend to lose pressure making oil pressure drop.
 
Johnny Dart said:
The good news for you is people actually give running slants away for(brace yourself) free.
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That would help me tremendously, though, I don't know anyone around here That would give away a slant. I checked prices for engines on the link earlier in the thread, and I can get a good slant/318 for $300-$400. I could do this, but I'd like to try local first. And, I want to confirm the engine is indeed toast first.
 
An update, I'm trying to find local motors, and have some leads, so I'll see where this goes. I've also found a Pontiac for dirt cheap, so I'm not worrying about not having a car.

EDIT:Found a slant and a 318. My grandpa is the one with the funds here, so he's opting for the 318 at the moment. The other slant and the Pontiac are still options.
 
BillGrissom said:
The clunk from P to R is a tell-tale sign of bad U-joints (cheap and easy fix). I boiled over my 69 Slant quite a few times, with no problems. Unless you drove a long ways as a Stanley Steamer, I doubt that hurt it. Try basic things first like check tranny fluid, compression, etc.

Before condemning the engine, as a last ditch effort, disconnect the torque converter and push it back and hold it away from the flex plate with a metal strap. See if the engine still makes a noise without the tranny out of the picture. If so, you can get a good 68+ slant tranny for maybe $0 since lots of people go V-8.
Click to expand...

that wont work due to the fact that the ring gear is on the converter...
 
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