Newbie Question on Slant Six

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jhdeval

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This is going to sound dumb but I am going to ask anyway. I have a 1965 Barracuda with a Slant 6 and a 2006 Dodge Charger with a 5.7 HEMI. I realize very different times and beasts but in all the cars I have owned (mostly newer models) I was able to get in and go but in the Cuda I usually have to let it warm for a minute. Is this normal?
 
Yes, it can be. A tune up would help but not completely eliminate the issue. Fuel injection is a better way to deliver fuel.
 
yes it wants to warm up because it does not have all the idle controls of the new fuel injection cars...

still is up in the air to me if you should let it warm up or just let it get oil pressure... hear good points on both sides...
 
I have a fresh tune up. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Hell I went further had the head rebuilt replaced the carb, alternator installed 70's electronic ignition (blue box) It has helped tremendously I can usually kick it over with 2 pumps on the accelerator and no more then a minute of waiting. Occasionaly colder mornings it will stutter and stall in reverse.
 
It might could stand some slightly bigger jets in the carb. Especially with the ignition. Usually that's a lean condition when they are cold natured. It's usually normal but you might could jet some of it out. I would be careful because you don't wanna go too far.
 
jhdeval said:
I have a fresh tune up. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Hell I went further had the head rebuilt replaced the carb, alternator installed 70's electronic ignition (blue box) It has helped tremendously I can usually kick it over with 2 pumps on the accelerator and no more then a minute of waiting. Occasionaly colder mornings it will stutter and stall in reverse.
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It's all in the fine-tuning, not the parts replacement.
 
Yes, its normal.
Slants can be a little cranky when cold.
Let it warm up a bit, and go.
 
Is your choke working correctly? I bought an adjustable electronic choke for mine and I don't have to wait for it to warm up at all usually. It never wants to die out when putting it into gear. It might be a little sluggish for a mile or so but after that its pretty much at 100%.

I would check to see if you have your choke tuned properly. It should close when its cold and you hit the gas. Once started, you should have it idling at the manufactures specifications while on the correct step of the fast idle cam.
 
well as fro the hemi ? if U have the cash I would do it . im only fu##ing with my because I don't have the cash for any thing different and for them being hard to start when cold its all good if U have to crank on it 10 to 15 times then U need to tune it but 2 times and it says running I would be happy see I got lucky my cuda has been setting 6 years it took me 30 mins to get it to fire up but the next day I went out to see if it would fire back up when cold and one crank of the starter and it fired up ...now my old 64 val she didn't like the cold I would have to pump it 2 times crank it let it die pump it 2 more times let it die and do that one more time and then let her warm up for alittle that was at bout 40 .f tho
 
ESP47 said:
Is your choke working correctly? I bought an adjustable electronic choke for mine and I don't have to wait for it to warm up at all usually. It never wants to die out when putting it into gear. It might be a little sluggish for a mile or so but after that its pretty much at 100%.

I would check to see if you have your choke tuned properly. It should close when its cold and you hit the gas. Once started, you should have it idling at the manufactures specifications while on the correct step of the fast idle cam.
Click to expand...
Yup, most of the time it's a choke problem when it's a bit "cold blooded". If the rest of the tune-up is correct and the carb works good at normal operating temperature, it's the choke.
 
I had trouble with my carb cars for years (1969 Slant Six and 1965 383-2bbl) until I learned about the "choke pull-off". That is the little round diaphragm that connects to the choke lever. Its sole purpose in life is to pop the choke open a bit once the engine runs (gets vacuum). You should set the choke almost totally closed when cold, per shop manual, then bend the pull-off lever so you get a certain opening (drill bit) when it sucks in. That way the engine fires quick while cranking, then the choke pull-off opens it to not run too rich on fast idle. I was always tweaking the choke thermostat from summer to winter in the Slant Six until I found the pull-off was bad. Check it with a Mighty-Mite vacuum pump. The rubber diaphragm is easily destroyed by carb cleaner (also gives you a vacuum leak).
 
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