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hello everyone!
I just purchased a 66 Dart 2dr Sedan on may and I’ve been gathering parts all summer to send it to the body shop. Does anyone know what kind of holley my car has as right now? I added pics and as you can see there’s no pull off choke. This is my first Dodge I always had Impalas but my gandpa and my dad were Dodge fans back in my native country Argentina. Thanks
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THis is from a 66 Plymouth manual. maybe one of these models. What motor is it?
 
Welcome to the board. That is a Holley 1920. It won't be hard to buy a new choke pull-off for it. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. And buy the three books described in this thread as soon as you can.
 
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Welcome to the board. That is a Holley 1920. It won't be hard to buy a new choke pull-off for it. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. And buy the three books described in this thread as soon as you can.
I guess this is what I have, instead of the one with the choke pull off. Very confusing
 
No, that's a manual-choke carburetor, not the kind you have. Please excuse me, I should've looked closer at your first pics. What's confusing you is that yours is a '63-model carburetor. It has a choke pull-off, just not the kind you're looking for. Instead of an external vacuum diaphragm with a hose running to it, it has a metal cylinder as part of the carb casting (green arrow). Inside this cylinder is a piston with its head exposed to manifold vacuum. The other side of the piston has a link attached to it that connects to an arm on the choke plate (yellow arrow). These internal-type choke pull offs don't make much trouble; you just have to keep them clean.

Your choke thermostat (red arrow) is the wrong type for this carburetor, and its pushrod (blue arrow) is bent all to hell. Do yourself a favour and go get a № 1231 Electric choke kit for it.

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No, that's a manual-choke carburetor, not the kind you have. Please excuse me, I should've looked closer at your first pics. What's confusing you is that yours is a '63-model carburetor. It has a choke pull-off, just not the kind you're looking for. Instead of an external vacuum diaphragm with a hose running to it, it has a metal cylinder as part of the carb casting (green arrow). Inside this cylinder is a piston with its head exposed to manifold vacuum. The other side of the piston has a link attached to it that connects to an arm on the choke plate (yellow arrow). These internal-type choke pull offs don't make much trouble; you just have to keep them clean.

Your choke thermostat (red arrow) is the wrong type for this carburetor, and its pushrod (blue arrow) is bent all to hell. Do yourself a favour and go get a № 1231 Electric choke kit for it.

Ok, thanks. I get it know someone before me probably bent the push rod to make it work with the 63 carburetor maybe. 1.Should I order the correct carburetor and a new push rod?
2. Correct carburetor and electric choke kit
3. Rebuild this carburetor if I ever find a good rebuild kit
 
Ok, thanks. I get it now someone before me probably bent the push rod to make it work with the 63 carburetor maybe.

Probably.

Should I order the correct carburetor and a new push rod?

You should put a good-quality rebuild kit ( www.daytonaparts.com ) and a new float (Walker № 100-14) in this carburetor. I like the '63-type Holley 1920 better than the '64-up type, myself, and good carbs for these cars are very difficult to find any more, so give the carb you have a chance. You can't get a new choke pushrod on its own, and not only is the pushrod bent, but the choke thermostat is the wrong kind and won't work well even with an unbent pushrod. Go ahead and get the linked electric choke, which comes complete with a new pushrod.
 
Welcome aboard, as you can see you can get a lot of good help on here. How about some pics of the car now that your carb problem is diagnosed.
 
Looks like you got a winner there. You have come to the right place to ask questions and get answers...there are some very smart folks here. Welcome to the forum.
 
Yeah, welcome. Take a look at the slant six forum here. That's probably where you should've posted originally but you're good. You can make that carb work with a little work. Dan already pointed you to Daytonaparts. Pricier than most but good parts. They also know what they're talking about if you call them.
 
Float is out of stock everywhere I looked for it. I have a A body V8 gas pedal. Should I try to use it with a Holley 1945? If so can I use the same kickdown or I need one from a newer car? Thanks for the advise.
 
You will have to beat the bushes for a new float. Try Old Car Parts Northwest (who also may have a whole new carb for you, either a Holley 1920 or the superior Carter BBS). Try Carbs Only.

If you swap to the cable-type accelerator, you will also have to either have the matching later kickdown linkage complete with all brackets and levers, right down to the one on the transmission, or see this thread for kickdown options.
 
You will have to beat the bushes for a new float. Try Old Car Parts Northwest (who also may have a whole new carb for you, either a Holley 1920 or the superior Carter BBS). Try Carbs Only.

If you swap to the cable-type accelerator, you will also have to either have the matching later kickdown linkage complete with all brackets and levers, right down to the one on the transmission, or see this thread for kickdown options.
Thanks, I’ve been trying online and at the old school part stores here in Chicago with no luck. There’s this guy selling a 1966 273/904 combo for $800 that I almost bought out of desperation but I rather to stay /6 and and use that money towards a brake upgrade and make it reliable
 
Good thinking. A swap to a different kind of engine is always (always, always) going to be much bigger than it looks in dollars and hours.
 
OK people, I ended buying a super six setup . After I clean it up and paint I’ll be buging you with questions. All I know is I need to use a V8 pedal (I have it) and the super six kickdown and brackets. I’m probably going to install it minus the kickdown and then ask how to deal with that.
 
Kickdown options are linked in post № 17 of this thread.
Thanks, I have the kickdown and brackets. I know the other options are the aftermarket cables. Hopefully I’ll be able to make it work properly. The EGR needs to be blocked or just left alone?
 
You can either put a blockoff plate in place of the EGR valve, or just leave the valve there with no vacuum hose attached to it (effectively a blockoff plate).
 
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