NGK Part number

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MoparDaddy

MoparDaddy

Damn Right I Carry!
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90 LA 360 vin code Z. Need to confirm part number for the NGK V-Power.
 
I use NGK R5671A-7 (part # 4091). The tip is much less protruding than some.
 
MoparDaddy said:
Thanks bill. I want to confirm that I have the right plugs on my truck. I fear they may be too long. I pulled a couple out last night to see how they're holding up and found the gap was closed! I gapped them all at .35 before install
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The information I gave you is what the parts house has listed for your truck.
Closed gap can't be helping your mileage.


Are the rings on the spark plugs? I am pretty sure these use rings but not positive.

After you figure out the rings and if they were correct you need to see if you can put your hands on a bore scope and see what is going on. You may have some carbon deposits or being close to having some serious problems that can be prevented. This is one of those places where an ounce of prevention might prevent a pound of cure.
 
How can I confirm timing or other issues without tearing the front of the motor apart since I don't have access to a bore scope?

Yes, the plugs have the ring washers
 
I've never cared for NGK's in anything except Jap bikes. Do they work well in a small block?
 

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Oklacarcollecto said:
About $80.00 new from Walmart. Cheaper on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-WHISTLER-WIC-1229C-INSPECTION-CAMERA-2-4-LCD-MONITOR-/281129747173?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4174a382e5&vxp=mtr
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I'm guessing that's the only way huh...

TXDart said:
It depends on the the 8th digit of your vin...
If it is a Z use GR4 stock no.2635

If it is a 5 use AR6FS stock no.3323
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2635 is what I have
Z. I wish it were 5 that's the RV engine
 
Be careful of the bore scope with such a fat stem,you may get it in the spark hole but you can npt bend it around to look at the valves,,They have mirror attachments but I would not dare with the one listed...
My Snap on one is very skinny...but pricey...
 
TXDart said:
Be careful of the bore scope with such a fat stem,you may get it in the spark hole but you can npt bend it around to look at the valves,,They have mirror attachments but I would not dare with the one listed...
My Snap on one is very skinny...but pricey...
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Noted. Yea. My budget is pretty tight. I guess I get to tear the timing cover off tomorrow and inspect the chain.
 
jos51700 said:
I've never cared for NGK's in anything except Jap bikes. Do they work well in a small block?
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Well, my car runs 10's on pump gas...is that working well enough :D. I have been using NGK's since about 2001, they work great in my motors (both NA and nitrous motors)....I like them.
 
MoparDaddy said:
Noted. Yea. My budget is pretty tight. I guess I get to tear the timing cover off tomorrow and inspect the chain.
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I don't see how inspecting the chain is going to do you any good. The valves can't hit the plugs. It has to be something to do with the pistons, fuel, heat or carbon related that is causing them to close up.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I don't see how inspecting the chain is going to do you any good. The valves can't hit the plugs. It has to be something to do with the pistons, fuel, heat or carbon related that is causing them to close up.
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I was told timing could be the culprit.
 
Timing as, To Much Timing, and causing detonation.

You can check the condition of the timing chain with out removing the timing cover.
 
Cudafever said:
Timing as, To Much Timing, and causing detonation.

You can check the condition of the timing chain with out removing the timing cover.
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How is that done. It's been several years since I've even seen a Mopar timing chain lol

Engine timing is 10* before TDC correct? It's floating between 0 and -8*
 
pull the dist cap,get a breaker bar and barely move the crank back and forth.while watching the rotor, it should move back and forth without delay...
 
If it has more then 12* of "delay" (as bad440 said) then its time for a new timing chain set.
 
jos51700 said:
I've never cared for NGK's in anything except Jap bikes. Do they work well in a small block?
Click to expand...

They work great in pretty much anything, and I have used them in imports, bikes, domestic cars, and even boats.
A good plug is a good plug and I have learned to trust them.
One instance was my Fiat 124 Spyder.
It was a dual overhead cam hemi style design head 4 cyl and I bought a set of Bosch platinums for it and it wouldn't even start, let alone run.
Back to NGK's and it started and ran perfect.

NGK and be done with it.
That's my motto on plugs.
 
TrailBeast said:
They work great in pretty much anything, and I have used them in imports, bikes, domestic cars, and even boats.
A good plug is a good plug and I have learned to trust them.
One instance was my Fiat 124 Spyder.
It was a dual overhead cam hemi style design head 4 cyl and I bought a set of Bosch platinums for it and it wouldn't even start, let alone run.
Back to NGK's and it started and ran perfect.

NGK and be done with it.
That's my motto on plugs.
Click to expand...

I was dumbfounded when I pulled mine and the ground electrode was bent up and black! Wtf?!
 
MoparDaddy said:
I was dumbfounded when I pulled mine and the ground electrode was bent up and black! Wtf?!
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I have seen that before even with the recommended plug.
Some people put two washers on them for that exact reason.
 
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