nhra rules..roll cage.firewall.fiberglass

[hamesdart]

ok i have a 69 dart im building and i want to see the consensis on the nhra rules
Cage requirments - car probly wont go under 10's as long as i own it.
rear firewall
my battery is in the trunk.
preferences? aluminum? steel? weld in or screw on? whats legal?

this is the build
1969 dodge dart
-ENGINE
1968 440 hp
10-1 comp
stock 906 heads w/mopar performance springs
509 lift cam
holley 750
holley elect fuel pump
holley street dominator intake
msd 6a ignition
msd billit distributer
ss blaster coil
high volume oil pan/pump
-TRANS
727
reverse manuel valve body
3000 stall
-REAREND
8-3/4
3.91 w/suregrip

-BODY
Shaved fenderwells
hemi hood scoop
centerline rims/mickey thomsons

-SUSPENSION
super stock springs
koni adjustable shocks in rear
comp 90-10 adjustables up front

i want it to be set up to nhra and yes im buying a book soon
But i suppose super stock is the class i should be building for?
if so what is needed?
other questions..
mini tub legal in superstock? along with relocated springs?
fiberglass fenders legal? how much would that devalue the car in general? opinions..
hemi super stock aluminum solid mount seats ok?

 

[james31]

i am a firm believer when building a car, build the roll cage as nasty and safe as you feel. if this is your first race car and not a street car put a 12 point in it. the need for speed will increase, but the car will be safe. it is easier to build now then update later. secondly by a book and read it then talk to some one in your area. this is just my oppinion.

 

[alan627b]

You could use super stock cage regs as a guideline, but since that combination would be very expensive to run in SS, and since it sounds like you aren't going to be building a class legal car, then use the Super Street
(10.90) or Super Gas (9.90) rules as a guide. You are better off to overbuild the cage a little, especially if you think you might "get the itch" to go faster later.I think at the 10.90 level, a 10 point bar (not cage, some differences) is required. The rule book will make it all clear.
Talk to your chassis shop man and see what his input is. I would think your combination with a 3.91 gear is probably good for mid 11's, geared deeper it could run 10's. One of my buddies runs a similar 68 Barracuda with 11.5-1 compression and the 590/320 duration cam with 4.56 or 4.88 gears and a 9 inch converter.
While not a state of the art 10.90 class car, it was usually good for 10.95-11.05 et's. Had he fully tubbed it and updated it, it would be capable of better times.
The funny part was, his short block was originally found lying on it's side alongside a shed, with the pistons already in it! he rebuilt it, put ported worked heads on it, with the usual goodies.
Who says state of the art/high buck is the only way to get it done?!
Yay Mopar!
.
Hope this helps, good luck with the project!
Alan627B