No crank?

[SirDan]

Just focusing on getting the motor to crank over not worried about starting. I recently painted my engine bay and had everything apart and I also swapped to a 4 speed at the same time. Lots of things to get messed up.

Rite now I have everything electrical hooked back up. I put the battery in and the trunk light, horn and flashers work but couldn't get it to crank. Tried jumping out the nuetral saftey switch by grounding it but that did not help anything.

Is one of the under dash fuses for ignition? any suggestions?

 

[Robj]

I'd start with rechecking all the wiring against a diagram and at the same time use a meter to check for voltage where it should be and when and check other circuits for continuity. I've got diagrams for a '70 if you need. Looks like a '70 or a '71.

 

[67Dart273]

Look at your start relay. Pull one wire, and hook a test lamp or meter to one or the other, and identify which one is hot when the key is twisted to "start."

(You actually should be able to SEE the NSS side, going down the firewall and to the transmission.)

Once you have established you are getting power, hook that wire back up, and ground the remaining "push on" terminal of the relay.

If it still won't crank, move your test lamp/ meter to the "big square" screw terminal of the relay, and confirm you have "start" voltage there. If so, check again, down at the starter solenoid.

A still 'nother way of doing this is the remove the "push on" terminal wires, ground one, and jumper the other to the big battery stud on the relay. Should crank

 

[SirDan]

got it to crank with a remote start switch jumping to the pin and grounding the other. No signal from the ignition wire.

 

[67Dart273]

What year is this thing? Could if have seat belt interlocks?

Look for a relay under the hood with a reset button. If so, find the yellow/ yellow tracer wires going to the relay, and hook them together.

Otherwise, if not seatbelt interlock, the "start" wire to the start relay is a very simple circuit----

one wire from one push on terminal of the start relay

goes through the bulkhead connector

and goes to a separate contact on the ignition switch.

So access the switch connector under the column and see if you have a start signal there at that connector. If so, it's either an interlock problem, or a bad connection in the bulkhead connector

 

[SirDan]

Figured the issue out, the column I got for the 4 speed had a hacked out connector. :violent1: The connector itself didn't look messed up and they took the two wires they hacked out and connected them to a factory style switch. So I stipped and jammed the wires back in their sockets for a temporary fix just to get the engine going. I will fix it the rite way before driving anywhere.