No power to fuse box

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I have no power going to the fuse box. Need help, great battery and all lights work, car turn on when fuse box is jumped (wire direct to battery). I have power to the firewall after that nothing. Help, 1974 dodge dart swinger 6 cyl.
 
There's fuseable link on the engine side of the firewall, have you checked that (it sounds like you have power through it).

The other thing that tends to happen is either the connector in the bulkhead burns off from high resistance or you get a wire break right there. You can pop the connections on the firewall side carefully with a pocket screwdriver by depressing the tab at the top (non-rounded) side of the connector and then pushing back on the connector while it's depressed.

They are packard 56 series, so if you find you need to replace them, you should be able to get them either through Napa or an online retailer. They take a special crimper but in a pinch you can make due with normal crimpers and a soldering iron.
 
I have no power going to the fuse box. Need help, great battery and all lights work, car turn on when fuse box is jumped (wire direct to battery). I have power to the firewall after that nothing. Help, 1974 dodge dart swinger 6 cyl.
 
I checked the fusible link on the firewall (engine side). It's good. I'll try to pull the connector off and test from there. Thank you
 
If I was to replace all wiring and fuse box, from firewall both sides, which would you recommend or where to buy one?
Thanks
 
Your first job should be to determine what caused the problem. You really need a shop manual. There's a 73 you can download free, but there ARE some differences in the wiring

Go to MyMopar

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Some of the manuals there, as well as that one, came from here, by the way. I've got a 74 paper only manual, it will take me awhile to sort this out

Also at MyMopar are some aftermarket SIMPLIFIED diagrams which are not quite correct, and not quite complete. They do have one advantage .....they are sometimes easier to follow

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74DartB.jpg

So far as replacing the box, there are several ways to go. A member just asked that last night

Here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=331988
 
The fuse box has two or three "power sources."

1...The "hot" buss which is some of the fuses are hot all the time. These are such as the dome, stop lights, horn, etc

2...The fuses supplied by the ACC terminal of the ignition switch. This is stuff like the heater and radio which turn on/ off with the key.

Can you tell if both /either of these are good or bad?

What does and does not work?

IT SOUNDS LIKE you either are not getting power TO the ignition switch, or else problems in the switch itself. If the tail lights, dome, stoplights work,.......................

Access the ignition switch connector and see if you have power there

Power coming in is the larger no 12 RED
 

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I have power all the way to the firewall. Fuse link is good, No power to anything pass the fire wall inside and to the fuse box. I have no lights of any, no horn and no accessories. If I put direct power from the battery to the fuse box, everything works and I'll crank & run until I turn it off again.
 
This sounds like it's "right in" the firewall connector. Read this:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

On that page is a decent simplified diagram of the primary power distro

amp-ga18.jpg


Basically the fuse link feeds power through the firewall to the ammeter and from there to the headlights and fuse panel, and to the ignition switch. There are some differences in 73/ 74

You have power at the ammeter?
 
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