71 340 Duster. Ignition key full turn on...amp guage dips slightly, but not even a click. Wipers, radio etc work. Battery full charge-clean connections. Had ignition swicth replaced a few months ago...has been doing fine since then....until today. I'm the opposite of an electrical whiz, but just wanted to see if there might be something simple to check before I take it to the shop?
No start - what to check
- Thread starter udlooz
- Start date
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DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
My guess is the starter solenoid. Gauge dip is from the rest of system coming on.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Try jumping across the solenoid with something like an old screwdriver, and if it cranks you know it's the solenoid or the key switch. (it's usually the solenoid)
Some sparking while doing this is normal, but the motor should crank.
With the ign on you can actually start the car like this.
(Be sure it's in neutral or park first)
Some sparking while doing this is normal, but the motor should crank.
With the ign on you can actually start the car like this.
(Be sure it's in neutral or park first)
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Also check for 12V to ground at "IG. SW. (4)" in photo above while key is held in start position.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Starter relay.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Last time I had this problem it was the neg cable at the block.
IMHO...
OP posted ammeter shows draw meaning power to ignition switch and out (on run circuits) to the ignition coil, door light, etc. OP posted wipers etc work, again shows ignition switch works for the run part of the system. No click means the starter relay is not receiving power to engage OR is internally damaged and not able to engage. No click is either starter relay or ignition switch or wiring between the two or ground "G (2)" from starter relay to ground. If it was starter solenoid, there would be a click from the starter relay but no click from the starter solenoid OR a click from the starter solenoid but no turnover of the starter motor due to failure of the starter solenoid or starter motor.
OP posted ammeter shows draw meaning power to ignition switch and out (on run circuits) to the ignition coil, door light, etc. OP posted wipers etc work, again shows ignition switch works for the run part of the system. No click means the starter relay is not receiving power to engage OR is internally damaged and not able to engage. No click is either starter relay or ignition switch or wiring between the two or ground "G (2)" from starter relay to ground. If it was starter solenoid, there would be a click from the starter relay but no click from the starter solenoid OR a click from the starter solenoid but no turnover of the starter motor due to failure of the starter solenoid or starter motor.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Good Gawd, folks. "Guessing" what component is no way to fix this. Get a test lamp/ multimeter, go to MyMopar and download the service manual (free) and maybe the aftermarket wiring diagrams there.
This is LIKELY in the neutral safety (if auto) clutch safety (if stick) / starter relay/ ignition switch circuit.
Your STARTER RELAY has TWO "flag" "blade" "spade" AKA flat "push on" terminals. One of those RECEIVES power from the ignition switch "in crank." Therefore that wire should be HOT anytime the key is twisted to start.
Next, the relay must GROUND through the neutral safety/ clutch safety switch.
Look up in the manual/ wiring diagram the color. (most are yellow is start, some other color (brown?) for the neutral switch.
If the yellow/ start wire is getting power with the key in "start" then put your meter on the remaining "push on " post and see if there's power there. NO? Likely the relay. Yes? Then the switch is not grounding
Automatic? Hold the key in "start" while moving the lever from park -to- neutral and back "wiggle" the shifter
Stick shift? Clutch pedal safety switch is grounded on it's bracket, one wire goes through the firewall on a separate gromment to the relay. Check it for continuity with the clutch pedal depressed.
This is LIKELY in the neutral safety (if auto) clutch safety (if stick) / starter relay/ ignition switch circuit.
Your STARTER RELAY has TWO "flag" "blade" "spade" AKA flat "push on" terminals. One of those RECEIVES power from the ignition switch "in crank." Therefore that wire should be HOT anytime the key is twisted to start.
Next, the relay must GROUND through the neutral safety/ clutch safety switch.
Look up in the manual/ wiring diagram the color. (most are yellow is start, some other color (brown?) for the neutral switch.
If the yellow/ start wire is getting power with the key in "start" then put your meter on the remaining "push on " post and see if there's power there. NO? Likely the relay. Yes? Then the switch is not grounding
Automatic? Hold the key in "start" while moving the lever from park -to- neutral and back "wiggle" the shifter
Stick shift? Clutch pedal safety switch is grounded on it's bracket, one wire goes through the firewall on a separate gromment to the relay. Check it for continuity with the clutch pedal depressed.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OR............................................................OR........................
Just throw parts at it. Always buy the MOST EXPENSIVE part first
1....Best battery you can find
2....Next the starter. Most expensive one you can find
3.....Next the battery cables. Use those huge oversized "diezal buzz" ones
4.....Next buy TWO starter relays, one in case the first is still not working!!!
5.....Next, go to the hardware store and have EVERY SINGLE KEY on your ring duplicated "just in case."
Disclaimer: di di di dah, di di di dah, di di di dah, did dah dah did dit.
Just throw parts at it. Always buy the MOST EXPENSIVE part first
1....Best battery you can find
2....Next the starter. Most expensive one you can find
3.....Next the battery cables. Use those huge oversized "diezal buzz" ones
4.....Next buy TWO starter relays, one in case the first is still not working!!!
5.....Next, go to the hardware store and have EVERY SINGLE KEY on your ring duplicated "just in case."
Disclaimer: di di di dah, di di di dah, di di di dah, did dah dah did dit.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
When my mopar doesnt start and im done checking for a neutral start...i approach it like this.
Does it turn over at all or not ...
If it doesnt but the car shows power, i simply leave the key in the run position, get out and grab the tire iron out if the trunk , pop the hood and with the tire iron...jump the starter relay thats down on the inner fender by the battery. If it turns over and starts...great. relay time.
If it doesn't...im looking at the starter, bummer if yours is an automatic, you're stuck...if 4 spd...push start and get to a a parts store.
If it turns over but doesn't start..
I her out of the car, pop the hood and pull the ballast wires off and tie them together. I used to always have a 2" piece of wire from the days of jumping obd2 end terminals for flash codes...so there is one in all the ash trays od all my vehicles.
Those are about the only ignition issues ive ever had, relay and the ballast. Ive lost an orange box to failure, once, otherwise thryve held up and the last decade in a half only used MSD igniton -coil,distributor,box. Best investment in the long run....it skips the ballast
Charging system on these old cars...man, that got me in my early days...dun lights, surge, smell of hot wires late at night driving down the 99 lights going brighter...
The grounds just sucked, the regulators...suck too, they arent quality and verybsensitive to the slightest resistance in chassis ground. I still to this day have to loosen , clean, and retighten the voltage regulator ever so many month's due to living by the ocean partially and then just by pure design. You litterally need a ground wire that spans the entire system , batt - ,reg, alt, inst cluster. Just piggy backin on each..lol
Dedicated to AJ ...lol
Does it turn over at all or not ...
If it doesnt but the car shows power, i simply leave the key in the run position, get out and grab the tire iron out if the trunk , pop the hood and with the tire iron...jump the starter relay thats down on the inner fender by the battery. If it turns over and starts...great. relay time.
If it doesn't...im looking at the starter, bummer if yours is an automatic, you're stuck...if 4 spd...push start and get to a a parts store.
If it turns over but doesn't start..
I her out of the car, pop the hood and pull the ballast wires off and tie them together. I used to always have a 2" piece of wire from the days of jumping obd2 end terminals for flash codes...so there is one in all the ash trays od all my vehicles.
Those are about the only ignition issues ive ever had, relay and the ballast. Ive lost an orange box to failure, once, otherwise thryve held up and the last decade in a half only used MSD igniton -coil,distributor,box. Best investment in the long run....it skips the ballast
Charging system on these old cars...man, that got me in my early days...dun lights, surge, smell of hot wires late at night driving down the 99 lights going brighter...
The grounds just sucked, the regulators...suck too, they arent quality and verybsensitive to the slightest resistance in chassis ground. I still to this day have to loosen , clean, and retighten the voltage regulator ever so many month's due to living by the ocean partially and then just by pure design. You litterally need a ground wire that spans the entire system , batt - ,reg, alt, inst cluster. Just piggy backin on each..lol
Dedicated to AJ ...lol
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MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
And then?
Looks like the clutch safety switch.......jacked the clutch pedal up and down a few times and fired right up. From what I can find, they are pricey little parts....$300 to $400 ..Yikes. May just ground it.
And the winner is 67Dart273! good catch!
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I would not just ground it. I had a car that could be started in gear and hit the car in front of me when I forgot I was in gear. Just my 2 cents.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Ground it. I pull those when they go bad and just ground wire to bolt mounting of relay on fender. Just start in neutral, smartest thing to do. Try rebuilding it, its possible.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Same here I hate clutch safety switches.
Not too fond of neutral safety switches either.
But I grew up with the habit of 100% checking for neutral first with sticks, but not holding the clutch down and straining dry thrust bearing surfaces.
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