NOT A PAINTER

[harrisonm]

I have been using the same products for many years. I am used to them, and they work very well for me. That being said, I am going to try some of this CRE primer. I am helping a friend with a 56 Studebaker Power Hawk. I painted it a while back, and it is all color sanded and polished now. He has a 67 Camaro we will be doing next. I will try some on that. Is it DTM? I strip down to bare metal and then use a DTM epoxy. Is that what you do with the CRE?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Ill reiterate what @barbee6043 said, you need an intermediate primer between your self etch and your topcoat, self etch isnt made to be topcoated directly, its meant to adhere to metal and have a primer sprayed over top of it. I also agree with what @jos51700 said, sand it by hand, dont use a DA, its too aggressive for those small areas.

This right here ^^^ is why you don't top coat etching primer. You prime over it with a high build like primer - filler.

 

[Bodyperson]

CRE is all about DTM. It does not have the open window like other epoxies. That stuff fills well. Pound some CRE to the the bare metal if you dare, use it as a filler and top coat it with a primer surfacer.

 

[1WildRT]

I have been using the same products for many years. I am used to them, and they work very well for me. That being said, I am going to try some of this CRE primer. I am helping a friend with a 56 Studebaker Power Hawk. I painted it a while back, and it is all color sanded and polished now. He has a 67 Camaro we will be doing next. I will try some on that. Is it DTM? I strip down to bare metal and then use a DTM epoxy. Is that what you do with the CRE?

I'm sure you see it to a lesser extent, but out here in California every time you learn to like/trust a product it gets outlawed... I have paints and primers I bought five years ago that the reducer/activator/catalyst can't be sourced anymore... I've brought products back while on business trips..

At times I've mixed products that aren't supposed to be used together just to see what happens.. With the current materials cost I hate to throw away product...

Not gonna try that on a full paint job to much work to strip it I things go poorly, but painting small parts I'll risk it..

 

[harrisonm]

I'm sure you see it to a lesser extent, but out here in California every time you learn to like/trust a product it gets outlawed... I have paints and primers I bought five years ago that the reducer/activator/catalyst can't be sourced anymore... I've brought products back while on business trips..

At times I've mixed products that aren't supposed to be used together just to see what happens.. With the current materials cost I hate to throw away product...

Not gonna try that on a full paint job to much work to strip it I things go poorly, but painting small parts I'll risk it..

Don't you have to use water based in CA?

 

[1WildRT]

Don't you have to use water based in CA?

Supposed to since around 2003... I still have some DBU & DBC plus a few gallons of Delstar....

 

[ir3333]

Yes it is DTM.You can get the CRE TDS sheets on line.

 

[ir3333]

Bodyperson...Use on bare metal if you dare? Sounds like you have had bad luck with CRE?
TDS sheet says topcoat 1 hour - 4 days. What is the window on your epoxy?

 

[Bodyperson]

Bodyperson...Use on bare metal if you dare? Sounds like you have had bad luck with CRE?
TDS sheet says topcoat 1 hour - 4 days. What is the window on your epoxy?

Oh i did not know about the 4 day window. Seems a little liberal to me as its pretty sand able a lot sooner than that. The "dare" part comes from it not being certified for use on automobiles. That's just a testing thing on PPG. If you are PPG certified, they will not guarantee it on an automobile. ME? I think it's a great product. I like Omni. has a 3 day window. Been using it for years with no issues. DP and Glassuirut are stupid expensive.

 

[ir3333]

TX...I am new to bodywork and painting but had it recommended to me by a good friend who restores and paints show cars.I tried it and liked everything about it...green as i am. VP2050 is rumoured to be identical?

 

[Bodyperson]

TX...I am new to bodywork and painting but had it recommended to me by a good friend who restores and paints show cars.I tried it and liked everything about it...green as i am. VP2050 is rumoured to be identical?

The key to any of it is to have abraded the bare metal less than 8 hours of the application of the product. #80 grit at the most. If you have to wait a few days just hit it with some red scotchbrite. No need to re-sand it with the 80. The rust is microscopic but still there. And of course clean clean clean.

 

[harrisonm]

Supposed to since around 2003... I still have some DBU & DBC plus a few gallons of Delstar....

How much trouble would you be in if you travelled to a neighboring state and bought some real paint? Can you buy rattle cans there. They smell like paint.

 

[1WildRT]

How much trouble would you be in if you travelled to a neighboring state and bought some real paint? Can you buy rattle cans there. They smell like paint.

Funny thing is even Amazon will ship pretty good spray bombs to Ca....
Neighboring state... If they catch you the fines can get ugly... But they don't seem to pay quite as much attention to paint materials as they do to ammo....

 

[RustyRatRod]

Funny thing is even Amazon will ship pretty good spray bombs to Ca....
Neighboring state... If they catch you the fines can get ugly... But they don't seem to pay quite as much attention to paint materials as they do to ammo....

It's ridiculous that they pay attention to either. Communism at its finest.