Oil Leak At Valve Cover

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MR.7DUSTER3

MR.7DUSTER3

His money, My time
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Hey Guys,

We got a pretty big oil leak between the valve cover and intake and I'm not sure which is the problem. We have a 360 with an Edelbrock performer intake and Mopar Performance valve covers. I read on here some where that the casting on one of these is the culprit . Has any one else ran in to this and if so how did you cure the problem. It is on the right rear bank and makes a pretty big puddle of oil on the drive way. Bryce's mom is having a fit because we both promised her that there would be no more big leaks coming out of what she call the "P O S' .
 
The problem is with the outside lip of the valve cover its hitting the maniforld before the gasket is properly squeezed between it and the head.
You can try a thicker cover gasket like the felpro units or grinding down that lip.
Good luck!
 
Place the valvecovers on the heads without the gaskets,you'll see where the intake runners are hitting the valvecovers,mark this area with a marker and grind the valvecover lip down a little at a time till it clears,it a VERY common problem with those valvecovers i've needed to do it myself a few times...
 
I had the same problem on my 340.As been mentioned marked the area with a marking pen.Then grind or file a little at a time till there is clearance.I used the Mopar valve cover gasket P5249581.It is rubber withe steel shim reinforcement.No more leak.
 
+ another 1.....and I like that rubber/steel gasket too. I like solid cams and those gaskets last a couple years with two or three times a year gap checks.
 
You should grind only where the contact with the intake is.
I did mine on about a 45 degree angle so the removal of material was minimal.
 
OK I did all that and even doubled up the gasket only to find out that it's not coming from there after all at least not all of it . I put it on stands and started up the engine and crawled under neath and I really think it is coming from the oil filter . I have to change the oil and filter any way as the engine now has about 500 miles on it. The Fram shorty filter goes on fairly easy with the TTI headers . So it back to Kraegen to get oil and filter. I'll let you guys know if that fixes it . but in the mean time do you guys know of a good movie that I can send my wife out to see,she is having a feild day with me right now. She is not one of those special wive that are in to Mopars like some of you lucky guys

Bob
 
MR.7DUSTER3 said:
OK I did all that and even doubled up the gasket only to find out that it's not coming from there after all at least not all of it . I put it on stands and started up the engine and crawled under neath and I really think it is coming from the oil filter . I have to change the oil and filter any way as the engine now has about 500 miles on it. The Fram shorty filter goes on fairly easy with the TTI headers . So it back to Kraegen to get oil and filter. I'll let you guys know if that fixes it . but in the mean time do you guys know of a good movie that I can send my wife out to see,she is having a feild day with me right now. She is not one of those special wive that are in to Mopars like some of you lucky guys

Bob
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Uh-oh! does that make her the other kind of special?=P~

An oil cooler and a filter relocation kit would be nice while you're at it! :snakeman:
welll....at least the relocation kit, then you can run the big filter..
I used a 85 aluminum filter adapter, cut the alignment prong off of it and rotated it around so the screw on adapter and hoses in the relocation kit point up and forward. Mount the relocation kit filter adapter on the inner fender so the filter points down, not like the way I did it! LOL
 
I use the short Mobil one filter with my tti's,goes right on..NO leaks...
 
I doubt the filter is leaking from the brand name.
You probably need to take a closer look at the oil filter adapter.
If either seal got pinched, it will leak.
If it's not tight enough, it will leak.
If you did not notice that there was still a seal there when you put a new seal on, it will leak.
And yes, i have heard of all of these things happening.
One or more of them may or may not have happened to me.
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I claim the 5th!
 
There is a gasket behind the oil filter plate... did you replace it or install one? I found out the hard way... don't ask! I bought a new plate, gasket, and oil filter tube thingy (what the oil filter screws to) at the dealership. It wasn't that high either.
 
The newer motors have an aluminum adapter that weighs a lot less than the iron monster...like I said, I took one of them and cut the clocking tab off and rotated it around where I liked.
They are at every boneyard.

And I still plead the 5th on my previous post!
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Well, we finally got around to changing the oil/filter and it was the filter that was leaking,it was tight but still leaked around the seal. We put on a K&N filter the short one and no leaks so far. The K&N filter was about 3 times the cost of the Fram but I guess you get what you pay for. I was always a believer in Fram but I guess that might change. We'll just have to wait and see.

Bob / Bryce
 
That is what most NASCAR teams use. Chrysler use to void your warranty if they found out you used Fram.
You always have to have a solid platform before you can make smart decisions. Change your filter and inspect the oil filter mount to see if the oil is comming from the inside of the filter mount or showing that it is comming from the outside of the oil filter mounting.
 
OK GUYS,

THE DAMN THING IS LEAKING AGAIN

Is there a plate between the filter and engine block because thats where it looks like the oil is coming from.The new filter is tight and I didn't see any oil after the initail start up but it has aconstant drip almost spray from the filter mounting area This is getting really old guys . Please help !!!!!

Bob
 
Mr. Duster it was mentioned in an earlier post there is a adapter plate that the filter screws onto and it has a gasket behind it that can leak. Or at least there should be a gasket behind it. That gasket could be the culprit. Try removing the filter and right in the middle you'll see where the filter screws onto. That's actually a stud cause the other side goes through the adapter and screws into the block. There are 2 styles of them. One has a square hex in the middle that a 3/8 ratchet extension slips into to tighten or loosen it and there's another style that a large socket (about a 1" socket if I remember right) goes on to tighten it. First check to make sure it's good and tight. If it's loose it will leak. If it is tight it's probably the gasket behind the filter adapter that's bad and you'll have to take off the adapter and replace the gasket.
 
MR.7DUSTER3 said:
Help
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I would tighten the hell out of the bolt that holds the filter adapter in place. It requires quite a bit of torque to keep it sealed because it is fairly large.

You might wanna remove the adapter and check the seals, but you probably did not get it tight enough.
 
I still use them sometimes... I've got some here waiting to go on my vehicles!
PH16, PH6022 and PH8A!!! They were on sale and they have never failed me!!! I've seen the tests and I've heard that they suck and I still use them. Why? They were on sale and they have never failed me, lol,....
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I change my oil every 3000-4500 miles and use synthetic in my daily drivers and conventional in my 69 Dodge and 07 Softail with ZDDP additive (STP oil treatment/store brand ok). Everyone with a flat tappet cam should be using the oil additive, IMO. I believe we would see less cam problems if we all used it. The bike needs it because it is air cooled and that means it's hot blooded.:snakeman:
 
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