Oil leaks out of oil filter plate

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RDJ

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I am just about ready to start my engine for the first time. I primed the oil pump with one of those oil primer rods and a drill. I had an oil pressure gauge and went to about 60 psi. There was a big puddle of oil under the rear of the engine. I thought the rear main seal was bad, but it turns out, it was leaking bad from the underside of the oil filter plate.

When I brought the block to the machine shop, I neglected to remove that. When I got the block back, the plate wasn't on, but I bought a gasket from Hughes and it seemed to fit. However, it doesn't seem to be sealed. Since I didn't take it off myself, maybe I am missing something I don't know about? Can somebody clue me in on why it may be leaking? Do I just goop it up some?

OilPlate1.jpg


OilPlate2.jpg


S7300194.jpg
 
the gasket don't look right to me and that bolt looks like it sticks out to far.
 
I've never seen a plate bolt without the 3/8" drive machined inside? Are you sure that is the right bolt? I may be wrong though:)
 
This may be a stupid question......but you mentioned nothing about having an oil filter on....did you have an oil filter spun on while doing this?

My setup "appears" just as yours but its hard saying from a picture.....all I can say is check the torque specs on the mounting nut.

It may have not been drawn in far enough, in turn not allowing the filter to spin on far enough to make a seal which would cause it too leak
 
I had the same problem with mine. I bought a new kit from Mopar Performance and the problem was fixed. I think it's only 35 bucks for
a new plate and gasket set. The MP center bolt has the 3/8" square
drive inside now as opposed to the hexagonal outside.
 
the 3/8 drive or the hex drive on the outside will work just make sure it is torqued to the amount.Also you might want to drill another 4 holes in the plate so oil can flow more freely.
 
Not all the fittings have the socket drive in them. I drill extra holes if the plate has the four... Make sure the holes are deburred and no chips remain on it before you re-install it. I can also see the rounded corners of the nut/fiting. I have a socket I ground about 1/8" off to remove the internal taper on the teeth. That allows me to torque it heavier. I used the wrong socket on the 410 I just fired and it leaked... I had to pull it, replace the gasket, and then use the modified socket to tighten it.
 
When we would get those types of aftermarket gaskets we would install them with the engine paint wet and let'em dry, as in a lil paint in the recess.

or scuff the recess a lil and use a lite coat of rtv, but let it dry before firing it.

the best route is the thinner gasket from mopar.
 
Thanks for the replies. I didn't see a Mopar Performance plate, but I did order a Canton Racing Products plate. It is billet aluminum, O-ring instead of the cheesy gasket, and has eight holes. Hopefully it works. I'll let you know in a couple of days

this is it

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-22-575/

BTW, I did have the oil filter on, and the leak was definitely coming from between the plate and the block, and it was more than just a dribble.
 
I have the plate from canton a really nice piece now I just need the screw piece.Can anybody help with a part ##
 
RDJ said:
Thanks for the replies. I didn't see a Mopar Performance plate, but I did order a Canton Racing Products plate. It is billet aluminum, O-ring instead of the cheesy gasket, and has eight holes. Hopefully it works. I'll let you know in a couple of days

this is it

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-22-575/

BTW, I did have the oil filter on, and the leak was definitely coming from between the plate and the block, and it was more than just a dribble.
Click to expand...

Do the canton. It works.
Wild also suggested the thinner gasket from mopar. That will also work in the way he prescribed. The thicker gasket likes to push out and will continue to be a pain in the *** until it no longer runs from you not catching it in time...not good!:angry7:

The o-ring setup is good though. I know of this being used with good results.
 
scamp 408 said:
I have the plate from canton a really nice piece now I just need the screw piece.Can anybody help with a part ##
Click to expand...

Bummer, I was hoping the bolt part came with it. In the Summit description it says "Hardware included: yes" but it also says "Fittings included: no". What harware is included if the bolt doesn't come with it? I guess I will use the old one unless Napa carries them.
 
i recently had a problem where the pitch on the plate was wrong so it wouldn't seat all the way on the outer ring. It would be hard to tell if you just tightened the bolt down because it would feel as if it was on there.


not sure if that makes sense but i bet that may have been the issue.


Thanks to Crackedback he got me the right plate and all was good.
 
6dart9 said:
i recently had a problem where the pitch on the plate was wrong so it wouldn't seat all the way on the outer ring. It would be hard to tell if you just tightened the bolt down because it would feel as if it was on there.


not sure if that makes sense but i bet that may have been the issue.


Thanks to Crackedback he got me the right plate and all was good.
Click to expand...

Actually, when I took off the plate yesterday, I could see how it wouldn't be hard to get it a little crooked and not notice.
 
moper said:
Not all the fittings have the socket drive in them. I drill extra holes if the plate has the four... Make sure the holes are deburred and no chips remain on it before you re-install it. I can also see the rounded corners of the nut/fiting. I have a socket I ground about 1/8" off to remove the internal taper on the teeth. That allows me to torque it heavier. I used the wrong socket on the 410 I just fired and it leaked... I had to pull it, replace the gasket, and then use the modified socket to tighten it.
Click to expand...

Great idea, that bolt head is too thin for good traction.




scamp 408 said:
I have the plate from canton a really nice piece now I just need the screw piece.Can anybody help with a part ##
Click to expand...

I called the Dodge dealer, they are available but he would have to order one and it would be here Monday. He said they are $35!!! Then he said he could sell it to me for $24. I think I will just use my old one. Sorry, I forgot to get the part #. He didn't know if it was a hex head or a 3/8 square hole.
 
I've had the same problem. Found my plate was a little warped. You can buy just the gasket from mopar. I also used silicone on both sides. Hey at least you caught it before you put the engine in!
 
The Canton plate sealed nicely. Good call Moper on grinding the socket. I had an extra 1" socket and ground down the end of it. It grabbed much better. It's funny how sometimes you just don't look at stuff. I never really noticed that the first 1/8" of the socket is tapered.
 
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