Oil Pan Leak (after modification)

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ddeleau

ddeleau

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Loveland, CO
I dropped a 225 in my 64 Valiant that I picked up at the yard. Great motor, but the oil pan has always been butted up against the frame on front left. Decided to go after it today by undoing MMounts raising and... ahem "denting" the offending corner. We won't go into the tools I used, but it needed to get done. Anyways, I punctured it along the way and now my day project just got a little bigger.

Question: New pan? or repair, if repair, tig weld? JB? old gum?

The pan is coming off and I am looking for the best solution.

Thanks
Daniel
 
I have had great luck repairing pans with a gas torch , never had one leak.

And while you are at it use the torch to heat up the spot you want dented in , then tap lightly
 
GEO said:
And while you are at it use the torch to heat up the spot you want dented in , then tap lightly
Click to expand...

or use the correct oil pan. It sounds like you have a later engine. The oil pan changed in 1967.

Another thing, if the engine is a 68 or newer, you need to put an adapter bushing in the end of the crank if using the 64 auto trans.
 
Not sure why it is butted up against the 'left' frame???? The pan is near to the right....do you mean passenger side? I'd find the right pan at this point.....but regular JB allowed to set up for the right time and on a squeaky clean, oil free pan (inside and out) oughta work. No real pressure in the pan to blow it out.

So...tell us what sharp pointy tool you DID use....LOL...
 
Well she is out. The stamp is 369. The point of contact with the frame was the area where the cross-bar and the frame meet, or right there in the curve. The motor is not original as stated. It also rubbed quite a bit on the steering linkage at the back of the pan. More "light" pounding I guess. I am gonna give it a shot putting the pan back on with the motor in, if it is anywhere near the hassle as getting it off then out she comes.
Tool? oh yea, well basically I was driving a monster screwdriver between the pan and the frame, then applying leverage to create a gap.

Thanks for the input.
 
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