Oil Slinger hits timing chain

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whit68

whit68

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I found the oil slinger on my 318 has been chewed by the timing chain (dual row rollmaster), itwas installed the correct way (flare to the front).

So I got a new one, test fitted it (again flare to the front) but it still makes contact with the chain. Is it OK to put a shim between the chain and slinger or are there different profile ones?

cheers
Anthony
 
Ditch it, a lot of engines came from the factory without one and didn't have any leaks, if you space it out you can end up with pulley alignment problems.
 
just me I'd wanna at least compare the rollmaster set to an OE set to see what is different. Yes seal quality is light years away from decades ago & many go without the seal with no leakage (usually they just inadvertently space puttin it back in). It may have some function as an oil "slinger" but I drill a .015" hole in the front of the oil gallery (& a larger hole in the cam plate) so the chain will get a mini pressurized squirt & also same (.015) in the inside plug at the rear of the dr oil gallery to oil the intergear/cam gear. Use alum 3/8 NPT pipe plugs
 
whit68 said:
I found the oil slinger on my 318 has been chewed by the timing chain (dual row rollmaster), itwas installed the correct way (flare to the front).

So I got a new one, test fitted it (again flare to the front) but it still makes contact with the chain. Is it OK to put a shim between the chain and slinger or are there different profile ones?

cheers
Anthony
Click to expand...

Anthony, just rebuilt my Aussie teen form a 78, it had never been touched. When I pulled it apart it had no slinger so I put it back together that way using a Rollermaster chain.
I've knocked up 5000kms with out a leak or issue, so I would ditch the slinger.
 
MR4V said:
Anthony, just rebuilt my Aussie teen form a 78, it had never been touched. When I pulled it apart it had no slinger so I put it back together that way using a Rollermaster chain.
I've knocked up 5000kms with out a leak or issue, so I would ditch the slinger.
Click to expand...

Sweet, thanks for that I think I'll leave it out and see how it goes.

Anthony
 
I, too, have found some with and some without. I have assembled without the slinger before and never had a leak. If the slinger is there, I use it. I don't let my undies get in a bundle either way....
 
almost forgot, on a SB the tchain cover fits loose as far as being centered so with gasket/cement etc in place start the bolts a bit but loose enough so the cover can still shift/move then install the dampener in far enough to locate and "center" the tcover (& seal) then tighten the tcover bolts the rest of the way then draw on the dampener the rest of the way
 
oil slinger is not used to prevent leaks, it's for timing chain lubrication.
 
i have found that the single chain oil slinger does not fit with a double row chain. that is why the 340 had the hollow bolt to supply oil to the chain.
 
discharger1332 said:
i have found that the single chain oil slinger does not fit with a double row chain. that is why the 340 had the hollow bolt to supply oil to the chain.
Click to expand...


There is only one oil slinger, it also fits big blocks.

They all had either the hollow bolt, or that hole left open from the factory. You need a hole there to supply oil from the lifter valley to the timing chain.


To the OP:

I would check the crank gear for any differences to the original one. Is the mating surface for the oil slinger flush or recessed or the same compared to the original. If you are installing it correctly, and it's still getting chewed up by the chain, then there is something causing it. I would compare the depth of the new gear to a stock one in the area that mates with the oil slinger.

Then when you find where the difference is, you can figure out if you can shim it or not.
 
that bolt has an 1/8" hole & You can drill a regular bolt to make one but it is still a drip passage from the valley & that's why I add the .015" pressurized squirt as SB's have chain longevity probs. Grainger (& others) has the .015" bit (get several as you will break one at least!) & need a pin vise to hold it in your drill and alum pipe fittings or go REAL slow with oil into a steel cup/pipe plug. if you drill the hole in the pipe plug in the rear of the dr horizontle oil gallery then preoil with the 5/16 hex you'll see the squirt & I think it'll convince you of its bennie. EDIT they either had the bolt with the hole or a drip tray
 
Rapid Robert said:
EDIT they either had the bolt with the hole or a drip tray
Click to expand...

They had to use a bolt with a hole for the drip tab. The drip tab eliminates the bottom drivers bolt for the thrust plate, and that would mean that the top pass hole is open also. I've never seen one from the factory with only two bolts....

I've seen some factory engines without the drip tab and no bolt in the upper pass hole for the thrust plate...

Also without a drip tab, the bolt with a hole, and three others....
 
I would just leave it out....hardly effects power/or durability.

I too have seen some with and some without it.....My Dart Sport had one....&

When I think of the way I got familiar with Oil Slingers....it just makes me upset
 
OK, I admit on my first 383 build when I was 15, I put the slinger on backwards.
That was 38 years ago. lol
 
krazykuda said:
They had to use a bolt with a hole for the drip tab. The drip tab eliminates the bottom drivers bolt for the thrust plate, and that would mean that the top pass hole is open also. I've never seen one from the factory with only two bolts....

I've seen some factory engines without the drip tab and no bolt in the upper pass hole for the thrust plate...

Also without a drip tab, the bolt with a hole, and three others....
Click to expand...
OH Ok I had assumed it was one or the other since two ones I tore down (1 late 1 early), one had the bolt/hole and the other had the drip tray & I assumed Ma switched somewhere in the 70's
 
krazykuda said:
Can you post pictures of the other side also?
Click to expand...

Previous owner built the 318 engine that Slinger came out of said the engine and trans were FRESH....with less than 5000 miles on them...I bought it and it didnt last 2 weeks till it started knocked the chain on the timing case.....

sorry, no I can not.

Shortly after that pic was taken in 2011 it was Chinese Star launched into a scrap of plywood and went to the county landfill with the Garbage.
 
Prine said:
Previous owner built the 318 engine that Slinger came out of said the engine and trans were FRESH....with less than 5000 miles on them...I bought it and it didnt last 2 weeks till it started knocked the chain on the timing case.....

sorry, no I can not.

Shortly after that pic was taken in 2011 it was Chinese Star launched into a scrap of plywood and went to the county landfill with the Garbage.
Click to expand...


that looks like what happens when you put it on backwards....

That's why I asked for a picture of the other side to look for witness marks to see if we could tell how it was installed...

I like the symmetrical pattern on the slinger, kinda reminds me of the old spirograph when I was a kid...
 
Well I have a solution.

It seems that here in Oz you can get two different size oil slingers. The first one was supposedly a Mopar Performance one but it came in unmarked packaging. I ordered another from a different store and guess what it's different.

If you look at the picture you can see there is about 1/16" difference in height, enough to cause the slinger to hit the timing chain or not.

 
On my Rollmaster, the slinger did contact the chain and my magnum tensioner and was installed correctly. The slinger I had was a cone shaped and not the step shape type. The Mopar Performance one I purchased was of the step type. I have yet to install it to see if it clears.
 
I think I have the same problem
. I have engine in car. Can I remove timing cover and water
Pump without dropping the oil pan?
 
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