Oil type for brand new built 383? Sythetic??

-
1970dartcustom

1970dartcustom

of the Moore clan
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
776
Reaction score
183
Location
Broken Arrow, OK
What type of oil should I use in my new 383 for my 1970 Dart?
(PICS OF MOTOR BELOW)

I use synthetic high mileage 10w30 mobile 1 in my 2004 Jeep grand cherokee and I like it a lot...

What is the weight recommended?
Sythetic work ok for this old style motor?

What do you guys run in your new motors?
 
Last edited:
This is my new motor :)

daisy motordad2.jpg
 
I just filled my freshly rebuilt 340 with Comp Cams 10W30 break in oil. You will want oil with a high zinc content.
 
Last edited:
You can add the zinc additive to it if you cannot find high zinc oil. There is a thread on here with all the brands some where
 
Mobile 1, 15w 50 is what I use in So Cal. Stays warm here. Good Zinc content.

k2-_03e5b468-afb3-4f57-bb01-6ade8f487419.v1.jpg
 
Been using Brad Penn 20w50 and its a great oil! Running in an iron headed 11.3:1 383 and a 10:1 440 with aluminum heads, 590 solid in 383 with 380lb spring and 626 solid in 440 with 400lb over the nose
 
I use Amsoil 20-50 high zinc oil in both the street rod and the Mopar. It's developed for classic vehicles. No fuss of putting in the zinc additives in your regular oil.
 
Break-in with good, conventional high zinc oil plus additive. But there are some break-in specific oils available as well. I'm another Amsoil fan and they have a wide variety to choose from. Gotta do research on zinc content because fewer oils have it due to modern engine requirements, including diesels.

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB MO-2007-08-08 Flat Tappet.pdf

Lower viscosity oils are used for efficiency in newer vehicle and can also be used in older engines, especially with the more accurate machining and tolerances of a fresh rebuild over OEM. The amount of fuel mileage and horsepower benefits will vary, but synthetics do make a difference and protect better. No reason to make an engine work harder by having to pump a higher viscosity oil than necessary. It also circulates a bit faster on cold start-ups. It's an extreme analogy, but imagine drinking milk through a straw as opposed to a milkshake. 10w-30 is a good, all-around viscosity.

If you're the VERY cautious type, it wouldn't hurt to run the engine in with weaker, OEM springs and/or remove the inner springs if running dual springs.
 
492427d1290930022-new-mobil-1-racing-oil-with-double-the-zinc-mobil-1.jpg

Note: This data is kinda old.

I always run Mobil 1. Cheap enough at walmart, and factory fill on Vipers, so it's gotta be good stuff.

Be careful (as always) with Amsoil (or any oil. some skip the ZDDP in certain oil formulations but not others):
Oil.jpg

PLEASE BE AWARE: THIS IS A VERY OLD REVIEW. I'm not taking the time to hunt up more current stuff, but it IS out there.

I'm STILL waiting for an independent oil test comparing Amsoil to other oils to be posted on their site. If you look at Amsoil's site, once you weed through the fertilizer (yes there's bullshit on their site, but they also sell....fertilizer? and....supplements?) you'll see that their oil testing is done by...them?

Hmmmm....why would an oil company want to own an oil analysis company?
upload_2016-5-14_9-11-22.png


So much for objective analysis! Buyer beware!

Just remember: factory fill. If a car engine under warranty goes tits-up, who pays for it? the factory. And they chose....
 
And for what it's worth, the true cure for the issue: Roller cams (which is how the factory ultimately dealt with it, for other reasons).

Having wiped a lobe myself a few years ago (I didn't have the cam phased properly and cranked too long with out a firin'. Totally my fault), I'll only run rollers from now on.
 
Paintguy said:
I use Amsoil 20-50 high zinc oil in both the street rod and the Mopar. It's developed for classic vehicles. No fuss of putting in the zinc additives in your regular oil.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I looked into it, and it seems pretty good... So if I was going this route, I'd wanna use a synthetic break-in oil? What do you recommend for that application?
 
Looks like I just bought Comp Cam break in oil...

So, that's what I'll use I reckon for break in...

Still not sure what I should run the rest of the time...
 
After the break in oil in my 340 I will be using 15W40 Shell Rotella
 
Break in the motor with Valvoline VR1 20/50 and a bottle of Comp break in additive. Then after break in, Mobil 1 15/50. Very good oil with all the zinc you need and it's easy to get anywhere.
 
Synthetics do better in the tests,but i have always wondered if the engine knows.
Millions of vehicles have run long and healthy on 5w30 dino oil.I have taken a few past 300k on 5w30 changing the oil every 10 - 12k and although down on power, didn't smoke and ran fine when i sold them.
.. many of us wouldn't even consider using regular oil in our muscle car.
 
Last edited:
[QUOTE="jos51700, post: 1971248775, member: 10255"Note: This data is kinda old.

I always run Mobil 1. Cheap enough at walmart, and factory fill on Vipers, so it's gotta be good stuff.

Be careful (as always) with Amsoil (or any oil. some skip the ZDDP in certain oil formulations but not others):
PLEASE BE AWARE: THIS IS A VERY OLD REVIEW. I'm not taking the time to hunt up more current stuff, but it IS out there.

I'm STILL waiting for an independent oil test comparing Amsoil to other oils to be posted on their site. If you look at Amsoil's site, once you weed through the fertilizer (yes there's bullshit on their site, but they also sell....fertilizer? and....supplements?) you'll see that their oil testing is done by...them?

Hmmmm....why would an oil company want to own an oil analysis company?
View attachment 1714934238

So much for objective analysis! Buyer beware!

Just remember: factory fill. If a car engine under warranty goes tits-up, who pays for it? the factory. And they chose....[/QUOTE]

Why cloud the "discussion" with info that is literally OBSOLETE? At least you admitted that it's old. But how can anyone make an objective decision with misinformation that's not even close to being relevant anymore? Requirements/specs and formulas change almost year. In 2007, I believe, there was a huge change in oil when diesels of that year & newer were required to use a special formulation in place of the previous diesel oil blends. Each brand has several different formulations of the same viscosity oils. One can't say "I use Mobile 20w-50 oil and it has plenty of zinc to satisfy my needs", or whatever. In general, one may have a lot of zinc, another has "some" and another may have very little, if any. Which SPECIFIC one are you talking about? Most oils, including diesel oils, have had reductions in zinc & phosphorous so you can't take it for granted, if that's what you're looking for. One has to look for the latest info and/or specific advertising.

What's wrong with a company having a subsidiary of their own providing a service that they would have to pay more for if an outside vendor was used for their own needs as well as their customers? It's a good business practice. You're automatically assuming a conspiracy because you don't care for a particular brand. Feel free to submit your own samples to other reputable oil testing centers for evaluation.

I've experienced many of the benefits synthetics provide, which happen to be from Amsoil. Many people have used conventional oils with great results. But I race, need the extra level of protection that synthetics provide because I can't afford to take chances with my racing investments (truck/race car/trailer). After a lot of research, talking to other racers, engine & trans builders and my own experiences, I'm very satisfied with it, so I recommend it if someone asks for an opinion.
 
Last edited:
If not running roller lifters, full synthetic may be too slippery-and then the lifters do not rotate as they need to. I use brad penn 10-30 blend
 
Marcohotrod said:
If not running roller lifters, full synthetic may be too slippery-and then the lifters do not rotate as they need to. I use brad penn 10-30 blend
Click to expand...


This is just not true. There is ZERO liquid lubrication between the lifter and the lobe. That's why you need zinc. All engine oils should have zinc but catalytic converters have screwed us in more than one way.

Again, break the engine in on a DEDICATED break in oil and when YOU are confident the rings are in (should have the rings in after 5 minutes of running time...talking rings not cam) then drain the break in oil and fill it with a good group IV synthetic oil.

Other than initial cost, there is no reason to not use a quality synthetic oil. Ever. And just because Chrysler puts it in a viper doesn't make it CORRECT for your APPLICATION. In fact, if the car has cats and yours does NOT it is the wrong oil. Period.
 
yellow rose said:
This is just not true. There is ZERO liquid lubrication between the lifter and the lobe. That's why you need zinc. All engine oils should have zinc but catalytic converters have screwed us in more than one way.

Again, break the engine in on a DEDICATED break in oil and when YOU are confident the rings are in (should have the rings in after 5 minutes of running time...talking rings not cam) then drain the break in oil and fill it with a good group IV synthetic oil.

Other than initial cost, there is no reason to not use a quality synthetic oil. Ever. And just because Chrysler puts it in a viper doesn't make it CORRECT for your APPLICATION. In fact, if the car has cats and yours does NOT it is the wrong oil. Period.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's the smartest thing I've heard all day :)
 
Brad Penn 30wt break in oil for 30 min. Dump it and fill with Brad Penn 10w30 The few extra bucks a quart is peanuts compared to a wiped cam.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top