Oil type

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Jasonmiester

Jasonmiester

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What oil are you guys running? 5-20 or 5-30?
Also when I was changing the oil pan, ( I bought the motor from a local builder, ( used about 30k on it) I looked up and saw a new piston. I have no clue why I only have one new piston, from the looks of it, it's never been fired with the new piston. Do I need to run and additive, extra zinc, or any special oil for the first start up?
Any opinions appreciated. Thx
 

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The head likely lost a valve seat and took out the piston. Pretty common from what I have heard. When I bought my core motor it had been cannibalized by a couple guys who needed one piston/rod assy to fix their motors. This was a few years back when the pistons were on a very long national backorder. In the case of your builder, obviously its cheaper to replace one than all of them.

Break ins should be done with non-synthetic oil, whatever your app calls for from factory. Additives not needed because of the roller cams, but prolly wouldnt hurt if you felt the need.
 
Run valvoline VR1 racing oil 10/30 or 20/50. It's made for hi performance engines and is available everywhere, you can add break in stuff for the first fire up if you like.
 
Once the motor is broken in you should run the oil specified by the motor. This is especially true if the motor has displacement on demand OR is a 6.1L.

In the case of displacement on demand an oil with a different viscosity than that recommended by the factory it can mess up the cylinder deactivation.

In the case of 6.1L motors the factory recommends synthetic oil.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
These new hemis are built a little more precise than our old school Mopars. I wouldn't run a 10-30 or 20-50 in one (the latter use to be my favorite). If your 5.7 has MDS and you're not disabling it, 5-20; if no MDS or disabling it, 5-30
 
Appreciate all the opinions.
I do have the 5.7, I never had an intake for the motor. So I never had the oil cap. I'm going carbs, so I'm disabling the mds.
Was researching and wasn't sure which to use.
What kept coming up is the, 5-20 or 5-30...
 
FWIW, I ran 10-30 in my 300C (5.7 Hemi), never hand an issue and it had 200,000 miles on the clock when I sold it.
 
You should run, 0 or 5W-40. I think Schaeffer series 9000 is about the best oil you can get and it is reasonable prices. My service rep did some oil analysis for me to prove it out. Also, I can tell the difference in how much better the oil feels at oil changes.

The new oils calling out 0 W-20 weights is purely for gas mileage and doesn't help the engine at all.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Run valvoline VR1 racing oil 10/30 or 20/50. It's made for hi performance engines and is available everywhere, you can add break in stuff for the first fire up if you like.
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I wouldn't do this in a modern Hemi, I run 5-20 and you don't need zinc additives as stated
 
joeboy said:
I wouldn't do this in a modern Hemi, I run 5-20 and you don't need zinc additives as stated
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That's not true. Modern engines need zinc too. Just not as much.
 
jeffneal66 said:
You should run, 0 or 5W-40. I think Schaeffer series 9000 is about the best oil you can get and it is reasonable prices. My service rep did some oil analysis for me to prove it out. Also, I can tell the difference in how much better the oil feels at oil changes.

The new oils calling out 0 W-20 weights is purely for gas mileage and doesn't help the engine at all.
Click to expand...
0w20 is specified for MDS engines to ensure concistent and correct timing of actuation of MDS mode. Using a higher viscocity will change this timing.
 
I use conventional 30 weight for start up and break in on a fresh build (first ~1500 miles). Then switch to 5-20 or 5-30 Mobil 1 after that.
 
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