Ok...another whats it worth....a "340" this time.

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shadango said:
Awesome...thanks! So should be easy to find. Any chance that it could have been knocked off, etc over the years or is it REALLY welded on good?
Click to expand...
Oh yes, it was welded on good. About 30 years ago(when I was younger and dumber) I had to use a chisel to get it off one of my cars I was freshning up. I think it only had a bead about 1/2" long.
 
Twistex said:
That's what it looked like form the pic. It's hard to tell, but here's a direct link.

http://s349.photobucket.com/albums/... 340 duster/?action=view&current=DSC00415.jpg

If you mouseover the image, you can click "Full size". The lower rear quarter looks rippled. It could very well be an odd reflection, but with smooth panels, reflections should view with a minor of waving or distortion.

Same with this one -

http://s349.photobucket.com/albums/... 340 duster/?action=view&current=DSC00410.jpg

There's going to be some minor rippling, but there's a large fish-eye effect in the middle that is usually a result of an inconsistent panel.

Now, of course, it could be the camera, or the angle the photo was taken.. Or, it could be previously repaired body damage. :\
Click to expand...

Ok, I see the "fisheye" deal....what would cause that?

The rear quarter, do you mean its like a horizontal rippling?

I guess I need to take my magnet with me again....LOL

Question: Would these two areas scare you off? I would prefer a perfect body...but hey, its a 39 year old car and its NOT $15k....so I suppose my standards have to drop just a little....

Also, do you see any strangeness going on with the rear right side? Do the curves etc look correct to you?

Thanks! This is so much help!
 
dartguy340 said:
yup that's it....not normal for the torsion bar hole though!
Click to expand...

Interesting reads....

So I guess I also need to look for that LCA welding repair too then eh? If it has it, run away fast?
 
Scare me off? Haha, you obviously haven't seen my car pictures. No, those would just be something I'd really want to verify in person. I'd want to ensure it's not a camera or operator fault, and if those panels were indeed repaired badly and painted over. Hell, sometimes it's not even a "Bad" repair, just a niggling little bump that never got set just right. Other times, I've seen some nicely painted, extremely reflective bondo mounds the size of a basketball.

Most reflections in paint are going to ripple slightly. That's due to the nature of paint compounds, and quite often, the quality of the paintjob. Orangepeel on the paintjob will enchance this effect. However, while you will see minor ripple, it's going to be consistently rippled to the same degree. Ie; reflections that go like this ~~~~~~~ as opposed to a perfect -----------, however when the ripple effect goes like this ~~~~~()~~~~~*~~~ ( () = fisheye, * = ding) on a straight panel, then it's usually a sign of an uneven surface under some even paint, throwing off reflections like a funhouse mirror.

The fish-eye effect is usually caused by convex spherical bumps.. Like, going a bit overboard when hammering out a dent, and pushing the panel outwards a bit.

The dings or "pinches" in reflections can be caused by the same thing, a panel that's pushed inwards.

Hard vertical ripples in a reflection are caused by a panel that's been stretched or scraped. I'm sure you've seen those kind of impacts, where somone scraped a panel up against a pole or whatever and rippled the metal. Then you get the harsh vertical ripples ie; ~~~\/~~~\/~~~

Hopefully my bad ascii art is a little helpful?

The right rear looks fine to me, there might be a small ding by the door, (It's the one bright spot in an otherwise very smooth panel).

If this is still making no sense, I'll snag the pictures when I'm off work and highlight/expand the areas, so if you want to check it out in person, you know exactly which bits to run your hand over, and hunker down and check the lines close.
 
Anybody have any thoights on the header on the right side?

Looks like someone cut the flange to install it???

red%20340%20duster
 
Twistex said:
Scare me off? Haha, you obviously haven't seen my car pictures. No, those would just be something I'd really want to verify in person. I'd want to ensure it's not a camera or operator fault, and if those panels were indeed repaired badly and painted over. Hell, sometimes it's not even a "Bad" repair, just a niggling little bump that never got set just right. Other times, I've seen some nicely painted, extremely reflective bondo mounds the size of a basketball.

Most reflections in paint are going to ripple slightly. That's due to the nature of paint compounds, and quite often, the quality of the paintjob. Orangepeel on the paintjob will enchance this effect. However, while you will see minor ripple, it's going to be consistently rippled to the same degree. Ie; reflections that go like this ~~~~~~~ as opposed to a perfect -----------, however when the ripple effect goes like this ~~~~~()~~~~~*~~~ ( () = fisheye, * = ding) on a straight panel, then it's usually a sign of an uneven surface under some even paint, throwing off reflections like a funhouse mirror.

The fish-eye effect is usually caused by convex spherical bumps.. Like, going a bit overboard when hammering out a dent, and pushing the panel outwards a bit.

The dings or "pinches" in reflections can be caused by the same thing, a panel that's pushed inwards.

Hard vertical ripples in a reflection are caused by a panel that's been stretched or scraped. I'm sure you've seen those kind of impacts, where somone scraped a panel up against a pole or whatever and rippled the metal. Then you get the harsh vertical ripples ie; ~~~\/~~~\/~~~

Hopefully my bad ascii art is a little helpful?

The right rear looks fine to me, there might be a small ding by the door, (It's the one bright spot in an otherwise very smooth panel).

If this is still making no sense, I'll snag the pictures when I'm off work and highlight/expand the areas, so if you want to check it out in person, you know exactly which bits to run your hand over, and hunker down and check the lines close.
Click to expand...

This is VERY helpful! Whatever you can do as far as the highligh etc will help me figure it out....

The right rear to me looked like it could be built up and out a bit? And where the right rocker meets the rear front quarter, there is a curve there....or is that normal and I am lookin gfor problem not there?

(Obviously I am no body man or expert on Dusters...LOL!)
 
Headers look like Hooker Super comps.

The Duster340 Auto cars don't usually have the torque boxes installed. Generally only manual trans cars got them.
 
I saw this car on Ebag a few times, and it seems to look pretty good. Not a original 340 car, but it is a 318 car with a 340. I do not know the car or the person that has it for sale, but it is now on the local craigslist. He might be motivated on selling it. The add has his number on it. Just food for thought.

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/1039093711.html

Can't ever hurt to get a few pictures and talk with another guy.
Matt
 
Yeah, the fender tag says it was a 3 speed floor manual.....

Is that a bog deal ya think?

Ok, have to claim ignorance....."torque box" ? Gonna try googling that..

So is that why the header flange was cut? If I were to put another set of headers on , would I need to do the sa,e deal to the new ones?
 
shadango said:
Interesting reads....

So I guess I also need to look for that LCA welding repair too then eh? If it has it, run away fast?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be too worried, it is repairable, lots of these cars had the lower control arm mounts broken out.
 
Here are the rear torque boxes. They are welded mount just in front of the leaf spring mount. The hole in the middle is for access to the nuts that hold the front spring hanger on. If you don't have these the nuts are easilt accessable.

I found this picture on ebay

157843351_tp.jpg
 
shadango said:
Yeah, the fender tag says it was a 3 speed floor manual.....

Is that a bog deal ya think?

Ok, have to claim ignorance....."torque box" ? Gonna try googling that..

So is that why the header flange was cut? If I were to put another set of headers on , would I need to do the sa,e deal to the new ones?
Click to expand...

Those look like older hooker headers. The #1 tube is removeable to allow for easier installation. And the flanges usually got cut (in the old days), cause it was a big job to get headers in A-bodies with the engine in place.
 
shadango said:
This is VERY helpful! Whatever you can do as far as the highligh etc will help me figure it out....

The right rear to me looked like it could be built up and out a bit? And where the right rocker meets the rear front quarter, there is a curve there....or is that normal and I am lookin gfor problem not there?

(Obviously I am no body man or expert on Dusters...LOL!)
Click to expand...

Okay, so here's the pic set. Sorry about the quality, it's just MS paint.

Now, keep in mind, some of these could just be due to the camera, or the light sources in the garage. Specifically, the rear lower quarters. However, if you go to look at it in person, these are some spots I'd make sure to get down and check, touch, etc. Might need your magnet after all! :)

normal.JPG


Fisheye.JPG


rear quarters.JPG


door ding.JPG
 
If it's a 318 car originally, even with a manual, it wouldn't likely have torque boxes from the factory.
 
Twistex said:
Okay, so here's the pic set. Sorry about the quality, it's just MS paint.

Now, keep in mind, some of these could just be due to the camera, or the light sources in the garage. Specifically, the rear lower quarters. However, if you go to look at it in person, these are some spots I'd make sure to get down and check, touch, etc. Might need your magnet after all! :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Twistex....

Yeah, I see what you are talking about now.

That bright spot on the right side caught my eye too.....thats why I was asking is anyone saw anything funky on that side....like the bottom of that rear quarter where it joins the rocker under the door....look correct to you?

I guess pictures make it kind of hard to see fine detail what with reflections and such......I will get a first hand look this weekend.

I was also looking at the door alignment on the left and that reminded me that some folks have said to check the doors to see if they are tight on their pins or not. If one were to have a saggy door, how tough a fix is that? Major doing or just replacing the hinge or pins??
 
Pins do get saggy, but also check the striker pin , it is common for them to be cracked, broken, welded etc
 
Ok folks....Just sat down with a notebook and compiled all these hints to look for....will use it as a check list.

So, any other thinsg to look for, maybe frame related?

I know this will sound dumb, but right now, the floors have carpet installed....how tough is it to pull the sill plates and peel the carpet back to look at the floors? This would be one of those "Well, I am ready to buy and if the floors look good I will" kind of things.....

Do you guys typically pull a plug to check it out when buying a car? Compression check too? That would mean yanking all the plugs though and that might seem a bit crazy to the seller.....for a $5k car.....

Basically, looking for thinsg you guys specifically look for when you are about to plunk down the green stuff on a car of this level.

I will be looking at this car by myself and am just a little anxious I guess.

Thanks again guys.
 
If he knows there is nothing wrong with the car he will gladly let you check it over with a fine tooth comb.......... I would check everything you want..... Sill plate screws can be rusty and hard to get out ..... but not impossible...
 
SleeperScamp said:
If he knows there is nothing wrong with the car he will gladly let you check it over with a fine tooth comb.......... I would check everything you want..... Sill plate screws can be rusty and hard to get out ..... but not impossible...
Click to expand...

Yeah thats what I kind of figure....ditto on the rusty screws...been there....

I was thinking I could just get under the car and look at the floors from underneath but if its undercaoted etc that will be a problem....that stuff makes it hard to see rust and such I would think.
 
You might be able to get an arm and hand under the carpet at the firewall. You might be able to feel at least some of the floor from there.

Undercoating might make it more difficult to discern rust from underneath, but if the floor pans have 30+ year old rust, the undercoating would likely have holes or cracks in it by now. You could try tapping on it with a hammer handle and listen for a drastic change in the sound.

Light rust might be impossible to discern without pulling back the carpet, though.
 
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