Ok got a weird symptom from the new A500

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MileHighDart

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So I've only had it out for a few short drives, then to work and back on thursday. All was fine except throttle pressure cable needs further adjustment.

This morning I adjusted my kickdown cable, added a return spring, fixed a small leak on one of the cooler lines.

Go to take it for a drive and trying to back out of the garage, it feels like the brakes are on when i'm in reverse. Give it some gas and she'll start moving, with kind of a chug chug motion, then I let off the gas and she stops like i had my foot on the brake, but I dont. Moves forward fine.

Any ideas ?

p.s. dont know if this is related. Overdrive is working fine, but converter lockup only worked once on my first drive and has not worked since.
 
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Ok, that was weird, went out and tried it again, and it's fine.
So went for a drive. Shift points are much lower now since backing off the kickdown cable, I'd say almost perfect. Part throttle kickdown works great.
 
Ok, I need to revisit this symptom.
Anytime I start the car cold, after its been sitting a day or two I get this symptom.
Trying to back out of the garage, it wont move till I give it a bit of gas, then when I let off the gas it stops as if the brake are applied, but they are not.
Also noticed, if I put it in neutral, the car will creep forward almost as if it's in gear.
This goes on till its warmed up, even just letting it idle in the garage till this engine temp is up, or a short drive to warm things up, the symptoms completely go away.

Any ideas on what could be causing this?
 
What was your forward clutch clearance?

Had to look back through some old threads but found where I posted this.

"Just got the red eagles and kolene steels installed in both drums.
Got 5 smooth and 5 steels into the direct drum. Clearance measured under the high part of the wavy snap ring I got .075

On the forward drum, with the new frictions and steels, I measured .036 under the flat snap ring."
 
a stupid question but as i remember they take 3 gallon of fluid after total rebuild. is fluid full and still red? just a thought, not beating on anyone.
 
a stupid question but as i remember they take 3 gallon of fluid after total rebuild. is fluid full and still red? just a thought, not beating on anyone.

Pretty sure its full, but probably should take it for a drive to warm it up and recheck it anyway. Has very few miles on it since rebuild, maybe 100 miles. Fluid looks bright red and clean.
 
.036 isn't enough. With cold fluid having more pressure, your forward clutch is dragging. You might have a weak return spring plate, or missing waved retainer ring.
 
.036 isn't enough. With cold fluid having more pressure, your forward clutch is dragging. You might have a weak return spring plate, or missing waved retainer ring.

Will this loosen up a bit as I get some miles on it? Or am I looking at pulling it out and tearing it down again to fix this? And is there a simple fix like a thinner snap ring?
And if .036 isn't enough, how much is ?
 
How is the overdrive controlled?
IDK about the Mopar od unit,but
In my GVod, if you back up with it engaged it breaks just about instantly, that cost me more than $1500Can. bucks to fix.
 
How is the overdrive controlled?
IDK about the Mopar od unit,but
In my GVod, if you back up with it engaged it breaks just about instantly, that cost me more than $1500Can. bucks to fix.

Controlled by a grounding circuit, one switch for o/d and one for lockup. They are always off unless I'm on the highway. And always check them before I start the car.
 
Pretty sure its full, but probably should take it for a drive to warm it up and recheck it anyway. Has very few miles on it since rebuild, maybe 100 miles. Fluid looks bright red and clean.

Possible shifter misalignment, (partially in two gears at once)
Remember, fluid gets thinner when hot which means it could have an affect when hot and not when cold.
Or even the other way around depending on where the fluid is going and where it might be bleeding over into.

Also check to make sure your valve body bolts are all snug.
If not it can cause cross leaks affecting other functions.

And, there is a screw not seen from the outside that goes on the separator plate before the valve section goes back on the separator plate side that if not put back in can cause cross leaking.
You didn't have one small black Phillips screw left over after your shift kit install did you?:D

Best I got right now.
 
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Possible shifter misalignment, (partially in two gears at once)
Remember, fluid gets thinner when hot which means it could have an affect when hot and not when cold.
Or even the other way around depending on where the fluid is going and where it might be bleeding over into.

Also check to make sure your valve body bolts are all snug.
If not it can cause cross leaks affecting other functions.

And, there is a screw not seen from the outside that goes on the separator plate before the valve section goes back on the separator plate side that if not put back in can cause cross leaking.
You didn't have one small black Phillips screw left over after your shift kit install did you?:D

Best I got right now.

No, no parts left over.
 
I like .050. Thinner snap ring right. But weak return spring plate or missing waved retainer also. Insufficient clearance in the overdrive direct clutch pack could also cause the bindup.
 
Did you try this?

Yes, no difference. Tried neutral for about 20 sec, then reverse, same thing, then tried a minute or two, then reverse, no difference.
But once the engine was about 1/2 way warmed up (on the gauge), then it just started working fine.
And I don't think its shifter adjustment, tried Park to Reverse, and Neutral to Reverse, either was it acts the same.
 
I hate when they hafta come back out...don't you?

That's why I'm trying the other stuff first.
Really not looking forward pulling it, getting it on the bench and tearing into it again.
And it seems no matter how hard you try, you're still gonna make a huge mess, and probably lose a quart or two of fluid in the process.
 
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