Ok to run loose converter on the street?

-
turbovan

turbovan

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
Messages
378
Reaction score
343
Location
Phx,AZ
So I'm doing what I can to get my 71 duster back on the road after 15 years down, and am trying to piece everything together cheaply for this first build. Unable to find my old torque converter I have been looking for something used, but have had no luck. The only converter I'm seeing in my price range is a turbo action s800 10" 17805s which stalls 3800-4200(per jegs). This is looser than I need, but I think it could be fun. My question is...what downsides am I not considering?

After everything is up and running with most kinks worked out the car will be turbocharged. 500 to the rear wheels will be my first build goal.

What I already have/slapping together.
360 with stock bottom end, la ported heads and 2.02 valves. Unknown cam from a dirt "street stock" racer( I know this is a huge amount of missing info). Running 3.91 gears and a 28" tire(might go smaller if needed because old tires anyways).

The car will see street driving, no highway, and will also see the strip 1-2 times a month. I'm the type who is ok with an ill mannered street vehicle in favor of fun when I want it.
 
Without knowing the cam, nobody can answer your question. But yes, you can put it in your car and drive it. Again, nobody can say if it's right.
 
Ya but you need a big cooler, I have an old turbo action 8 3/4" 4200 in mine and the cooler is about 8" in front of the rad almost hits the grill, those convertors make a lot of heat, also have a trans temp gauge.
 
How do you know that it is "looser" (I hate that term) than you need? The only way to know that is to know the torque output of your engine and then match that to the rest of the specs of your car. Ideally it should flash 500rpm above peak tq RPm.

I run a 3500. Last car was 4000. Neither were "loose" Neither made any excessive heat.

If you drove my car with a 4,000 stall you'd think the convertor was stock.
 
What temp is your fluid? With my cooler it stays around 200 f. if I am cruising at a steady speed it's around 175-180 f.
 
Everybody's answers have helped me quite a bit, thank you. I've used stricktly manual transmissions for 15 years so I just wanted to make sure im not missing anything. I do have a large external transmission cooler, but not a temp gauge: I will add one.

I'm certainly not looking to match the converter to my combo, and I don't care if it's "right." I just want to make sure I won't experience any negatives(like heat) which I havent considered.
 
I had a higher stall in a 440 had a bigger cam but it was in a c-body with a high gear and it boiled the fluid spit the dipstick up and puck fluid out the dipstick tube.
 
So I guess my point being was convertor was not matched to the car, car was to heavy, gearing to high , and no auxiliary cooler, might have been o.k. with a cooler.
 
As You likely know. It is a PITA, at times ,waiting for the car to catch up with the motor, if the convertor is too loose.
 
If converter is the TA loose version (TA offers tight medium and loose versions of converters). Then yes loose version will be a little soggy for daily street drives. Can be made to work with auxilary cooler and larger cspacity trans pan. Even full synthetic trans fluid is better here!
 
I ran an 8" JW 4000 stall converter behind a 440. Loose as a goose. I also run a 9.5" FTI 4200 stall behind a small block and it is tight at part throttle. MUCH better on the street. Go 9.5 and spend the $$$. Mine was a tick over $1000.
 
It's the medium version. I have zero idea what it feels like to wait for a car to catch up to a converter, however weight should be on my side around 3200lbs with driver.

I will certainly be after a nice 9.5" when the time comes, but at the moment I'm looking to get it on the road and start developing my turbo hot side build.
 
For that much money, almost $600, I'd call some companies and get something built.

Converters now, when built well are not the marshmellows of the 80's that most seem to think they are.
 
crackedback said:
For that much money, almost $600, I'd call some companies and get something built.

Converters now, when built well are not the marshmellows of the 80's that most seem to think they are.
Click to expand...

Agree 100%!! Why would anybody just guess at a converter nowadays, or go by advertised numbers, when it's so easy to get the "right" converter??? Too much work to do things right I guess!!
 
crackedback said:
For that much money, almost $600, I'd call some companies and get something built.

Converters now, when built well are not the marshmellows of the 80's that most seem to think they are.
Click to expand...

It's used for $300...
 
Shouldn't you be shopping for a TC for the 500hp Turbo'ed version now, so that you don't have to buy another one later? Pulling trannys ain't all that much fun,is it?

I have never run a turbo, nor a 500hp engine; but it seems to me a 500hp turbo'ed street engine would need a lot different TC, than a NA 360 with an unknown cam.

I really don't want to say it, but aren't you sorta getting ahead of yourself? Or is the turbo coming some other year?
 
Hey turbovan where are u located? I just bought a core trans to steel the clutch drums out of. When i opened it up it was rebuilt but never ran. It has what looks to be a brand new converter. Maybe a dayco. I would pretty much just give it to you. Not sure on the stall. The trans was an rv trans
 
turbovan said:
It's used for $300...
Click to expand...
Price wise it's a bargin I guess, but what do you know about it, what's it like inside, how hard was it used, are the vanes coming loose, what condition is the sprag in, etc. Is the balance right for your engine? Until you have it cut open and inspected there is no way to tell it's true worth. I've seen some nicely painted converters that when cut open, were on their last legs and costly to repair. You're spending a chunk of change on the engine, so why cheap out on the rest of the driveline.
This is just my opinion, but a used converter, stock or performance, without knowing it's past makes it a great door stop.
 
The best thing you could do right now is make a game plan for the engine you have now and the turbo one in the future. They are going to be completely different animals. Turbos with an unknown cam that may have a lot of overlap, a high stall converter, and 3.91 gears do not mix. Adding 150+ hp to an engine with boost is going to raise the stall, so keep that in mind. They also want higher gearing like high 2's - 3.55s. The cam needs high lobe seperation and usually low duration. IMO, shoehorn in a sloppy sb or /6, ride that around while you build your turbo engine on the bench. You're going to need some high strength fasteners for the rods, main caps, and heads anyways.
 
Been building turbo engines for 15 years, and have a pretty firm grasp. Zero auto experience hence the question.
The above listed engine was $500 on Craigslist. Car already has the gears. I'm just using it to build a turbo hot side and get the cars kinks worked out while I build. I have a plan, but this thread is just about a used converter to get me on the road.

Search "dizuster" if you want an idea of what I'm building.
 
Run as big a cooler as will fit and don't expect decent fuel mileage. Other than that, it will be just fine.
 
transman said:
Price wise it's a bargin I guess, but what do you know about it, what's it like inside, how hard was it used, are the vanes coming loose, what condition is the sprag in, etc. Is the balance right for your engine? Until you have it cut open and inspected there is no way to tell it's true worth. I've seen some nicely painted converters that when cut open, were on their last legs and costly to repair. You're spending a chunk of change on the engine, so why cheap out on the rest of the driveline.
This is just my opinion, but a used converter, stock or performance, without knowing it's past makes it a great door stop.
Click to expand...
I completely agree. I learned the hard way several yrs. ago not to buy a used converter. Even one that seems to work right might be one stab of the throttle away from something breaking lose
 
crackedback said:
For that much money, almost $600, I'd call some companies and get something built.

Converters now, when built well are not the marshmellows of the 80's that most seem to think they are.
Click to expand...

cosgig said:
Agree 100%!! Why would anybody just guess at a converter nowadays, or go by advertised numbers, when it's so easy to get the "right" converter???
Click to expand...

X2 :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top