Old Man's 66 Cuda Funnycar build

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Managed to work on the cooling system a little today . To start with the radiator is 19x31 with 2 one inch tubes , there is a aluminum fan shroud with louvers punched in it to let hot air out when the fans are not running . there are two 12 inch Spal fans to help pull air thru the system . I will have them set up to be controlled manually with two switches and a set of relays . I built two air dams on both sides of the radiator to make the air flow go thru the radiator . I bent up two brackets to hold the radiator in place at the top will do the same for the bottom . I will use window foam stripping to go between the brackets and the sheet metal around the opening to keep the radiator from rubbing a hole in it self .Next will be trying to figure out the radiator hose routing . I know that there will have to be a filler neck up next to the engine , the engine sits higher that the top of the radiator .... will always have air in the system if you do not do this ..
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Wilwood adj. pro. valve last of the big ticket items for brake system .
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Bracket that came with it had to be modified , cut it off and put a bend and a twist to it
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Cleaned off paint so it could be welded to the roll cage for support
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Will weld it to cage here
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The top 3 tubes of the radiator are blocked off and will not get air flow so I am going to cut the radiator support off where you see the black magic marker lines . Also made 2 braces to help support the grill assembly and the top support for the radiator . This will help get air flow thru all of the radiator .
 
Had to do a honey do before I could get back to work on the cuda . My wife wanted a hand rail at the back door , so I bent one up out of rollcage tubing .. took a day to do but she was happy !!

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Drilled 2 3/16 inch holes thru bracket and back brace and attached with 2 bolts
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Back brace for pass. side rad. bracket
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Driver side rad. bracket
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Cut out about 2 inches of radiator brace and covered with black door trim . Did this so the top 3 tubes will be exposed to incoming air flow
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Put jack under cross member to see what car would look like raised up 1 inch. Note I am going to use 66 Valiant grills and center section .There is a guy that has a NOS set but way to rich for my wallet . $1800.00
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View from drivers seat at eye level ..
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View of dash and guages from eye level ..... Saturday I Hope to move car over, jack it up and remove rear tires to install tubes and sheet metal in the trunk area ,,
 
I would go to Piedmont drag strip and watch Ronnie run his AFX cuda ,watching the Man go thru the gears it was a rush . Later in life I had a 67 fastback cuda that I had the tire hanging out of the wheelwells , OK for 2 people in the car but put someone in the backseat and in a hundred miles I had 1/2 wide and 1/4 deep cut on the tire , go into a drive way and the car twists on it's suspension and you get a cut tire , I admit it looks great but in the real world a cut tire at $500.00 each plus maybe a mess up quarter panel not so great .... Again thanks for the thought ....

You, sir, just won the internet.
 
Removed the back glass by my self , it's heavy . For now just looking how to do tin work after tubs go and get every thing to fit in place . installed factory side pieces , will try to tie these together and make a solid panel across the back of the car .

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Placed a wood strip across from side to side to give me a visual of where the tin work will go if attached to the stock trim pieces

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Will set tubs at 4 inches over the tires for now and see what it looks like , I like to look at things and see what I can come up with on how to do the tin work

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I am looking at running the 3 inch exhaust over the rear end and over the shock support bracket , there is 8 inches of room in the pic . come over the shock mount turn straight down with the exhaust do a couple of 90's and go over the frame and tie into the mufflers .

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Flowmaster mufflers are 5x12x22 for big block RV . Build a 71 chevy truck for a friend ,he has a 560 inch bb in it , used these mufflers sounded great real deep and mellow with little back pressure ...

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Will have to look at how much room I have left for 20 gallon fuel cell starting to get tight back there ...
 
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First thing to do is set the first piece of sheet metal for the tub where you want it , make a mark with a sharpie down the lower edge where you are going to cut it . Also drilled 3 holes and used cleco's to put back in the same location when installing the tub back in.

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Next jacked up the car and removed the tires , cut the back piece and reinstalled it with cleco's . Measured from the back piece to the outside sheet metal and wrote measurements about every 3 inches on the back piece . Using the shipping box that the tubs came in I made a card board pattern and transferred the measurements from the back piece to the card board pattern . I took another piece of the shipping box and rolled it and taped it to the first pattern piece . this made a card board pattern of the wheel tub . Using the measurements on the pattern I made marks on the edge of the cardboard tub . I cut the outer piece about 1 inch shorter than the measurements . This gives you a little room for what comes next .

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Most tubs come in a flat box and need to be assembled , with the help of the corner of my shops wall I could hold the top of the tub and tap it down into the joint and roll the edges over forming the tub assembly into one piece ...

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I placed the cardboard tub in the car wheel well and clamped it in with cleco's and clamps , using a contouring tool and a sharpie you follow the sheetmetal with the end of the tool and mark the paper tub with the sharpie . Take the paper tub out place and into the assembled tub and reverse the tool and mark the sheet metal with the sharpie following the marks on the paper tub . if done correctly you will have only a small of trimming and it fits snuggly into place . Using pop rivets to hold the tub in place to finish the install under the car ..

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Used a level to make sure the tub is level form side to side . I placed a 1x1x16 inch piece of square metal along the lower edge of the tub . squared it up with framing square and welded it in place . This piece will be part of the battery box bracing and will help when the floor is attached to it .

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A side shot of the square tube in place and squared up with the rear frame rails , when finished up there will be a frame made to hold the battery on top and muffler hangers on the bottom .

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Tub #2 assembled and ready to be installed .
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You take the cardboard tub apart and reverse it and place it inside the assembled tub and mark and cut it , following the same procedure as before mark and cut pattern first and the mark and cut sheet metal and install ..

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The 4 things you will need for this job is , Fresh sharpie , cardboard for pattern , a contour took ( I got mine from Chris Alston Chassis Works ) and the last thing is a PAIR OF GLOVES , THIS STUFF WILL CUT YOU UP ...

On how do TUB installs go to Chris Alston Chassis Works web site , go to bottom of page and you will see Tech how to , open it and look down page to find TUB install how to ..
It has detailed pic's on how all this works , The process use to kick my butt until started to do it this way ...
 
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Used the cardboard pattern form from the first tub install, placed it in the next tub and traced around it . this is where it will be cut to match the first one .

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reversed the tub pattern and taped it together . this will be clamped in place and marked with the contour tool .

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2nd shot of the back of the pattern tub .


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trimmed the bottom and edges of the tub and installed it . used a 48 inch level to make sure both sides are the same .

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Level shows dead on level. drilled holes inside and pop riveted it in place .

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nice tight fit on inside of quarter panel .

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side shot of installed tub . next up will be filling in the gaps and making a frame for the rear floor area ...
 
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finished up square tubing on tub's lower edge . Sealed inside of tub with black paintable sealer. Will paint inside and spray on undercoating later .

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Built outside frame work , this will hold up tin work and muffler from the bottom . Also support for trunk mounted battery .

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Frame work is level from front to back and squared off the main frame

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Level from side to side

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Cut piece of 20 guage sheet metal and rolled beads in it for strength ... tin always has a small wave in it when you use a bead roller . when installed I use black sealer in between frame and tin work and then use pop rivets to hold in place

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This is looking from under the frame work , The exhaust tip will exit between the frame and outer sheet metal ....as you can see I have a lot of cleaning to do before I finish and seal up this area .....
 
Thanks 66340sedan , I work on it when I get a chance and feel up to it . My health has not been great lately . My wife thinks I am out of my mind , I have 3 1/2 projects going right now . My brother-in-laws 62 Chevy truck , the 66 cuda funny car , my 86 dodge truck I bought new this is the 1/2 project , want to flip rear end to lower it , have a set of wheels to match the 66 cars SS wheels and a 65 afx coronet I brought with me when I moved from NC 12 years ago ... Here are a few pic's of AFX car .
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65 post car wheels moved forward 15 inches , the car has a lowered stance looks better , will handle better , use to jack em up and the cars would handle terrible .

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Back wheels were made by Bart Wheel co , 15x18 wide tires are hoosier , when mounted they measure 23 1/2 wide thru side wall .

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Moved motor back 2 inches , Hurst push down shifter , 3 1/2 inch handle throw . works like a VW shifter put in neutral and push down for reverse gear . spring loaded 1 to 2 gear change pull back hard, push to 3 gear shifter will go that gear gate with out being pushed into it

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Used 5 spoke 4x15 wheels up front , had a set of custom wheel caps made for all 4 wheels .

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had to replace all the floor pans , used the original bench seat , had a big hole to fill around shifter .

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Did tin work on center section of floor with drive shaft tunnel . the first time I used slip roller ...

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Made big box for shifter , thinking about adding cup holders , for those long rides LOL
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Made the top around shifter plate removeable . for shifter access for adjustments.

This build is covered in fbbo under 1965 afx coronet
 
Fantastic builds, the AFX car is as nice as the Cuda build. keep the pics coming as I love to watch this.
I went over to FBBO to see the rest of the AFX build.
 
Thanks Keith , I love the AFX style cars , Years ago when these things were running on the strip , I wanted a street version of them . I hope I can get both of them finished someday . Again thanks . :burnout:
 
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Wilwood adj. pro. valve last of the big ticket items for brake system .
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Bracket that came with it had to be modified , cut it off and put a bend and a twist to it
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Cleaned off paint so it could be welded to the roll cage for support
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Will weld it to cage here
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I'm sure you already know but that bracket kit with the lines is used to install the prop valve off the back of the master. You could of saved about $50 and bought just the prop valve.

Build looks great!

Riddler
 
Ebay buy on wilwood kit was $99 with bracket and with out $77 . I am cheap and shop like HELL to find the cheapest price .... I knew that I could not use the bracket , my master cylinder is real close to the roll cage but I looked at what you get with the kit and figured I could use part of the bracket plus I got the brake lines . Wilwood has a bracket that mounts on the other side but it might interfere with taking off the valve cover on that side ... THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT . I am just getting tired of having to fab stuff , 3 inch exhaust system is next and it's FAB time again ...
 
Np, I think your fab skills are amazing. The car is z true testament to what you can do. I can't wait to see what you have in store next.

Riddler
 
Been down with a bad bug for 5 weeks , have started to do a little around the shop and house .
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started the driver side floor frame .
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welded 1inch tube into frame and boxed end .
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the muffler will fit under the tubing with a 1/2 inch of space under frame work . Exhaust tip will fit in the notch at the end of the frame and come out under the bumper . see above pic for notch at bumperv
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This is an exhaust port . it is 4 1/2 out side with a 1/4 thickness . the inside opening is 4 inches . I will cut them in half and install them in the lower side of the frame . doing this will allow the 3 inch exhaust tubing to sit up close to the floor and not hang down .
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This pic shows how much room there will be with a 3 inch tube going thru it .
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Also I had the 3 butter flies for the injector hat powered coated . looks great ... hoping to get back to working on my projects full time again ......
 
You have your fabrication "down pat." As mentioned in an earlier post...Your work and pictures gives motivation to get a project at hand, done. I'm looking forward to the finished ride.
 
Hi , Guys been busy for the last 5 months working on my sister-in-laws house . She finally made her mind to sell it . She is 80 years old , been living with us for the last 10 years , a really great lady . So it began with painting the outside , after finishing up the HOA did not like the color combo so it was repainted to make them happy . Painted inside , all 1900 sq. ft. new fans , stove , dishwasher , microwave , light fixtures and carpet it was done . This took up all my time and $$$$ , she lives on S.S. . While putting up the new light fixtures in the hall I took a fall off the ladder . Right knee and shoulder were banged up pretty good . Good news I was almost through with the project and it sold last week . So I now have some $$$ to spend on the Cuda . I picked up a track locker for the Dana 60 from a old gentleman that had purchased it for his truck but never installed it . I have a 4:10 Richmond gear set and install kit coming in for it . SO after the first of the year I can get back to things on the 66 car. Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas . View attachment 1715000534 View attachment 1715000534 View attachment 1715000536

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Finally got in a few more parts for the car . The Richmond 4:10 gear set and the complete set up kit for the dana 60 arrived . Also went ahead and got the carb. for the car , a Quick fuel Q-1050-B1 with fuel lines . The line coming out of the side of the carb is for the power valve to get a signal for the vac . from the manifold . Have more parts on order . That is the good stuff , I will be down for a while with my shoulder , had a MRI done and have a tendon pulled off my shoulder joint . Go to get it fixed at the end of Jan. will be down for about a month . I am going to try and get dana set up before this happens ... I will just stock pile parts and get back to it LATER ...
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Nice, getting parts feels almost as good as working on your car!
So while your down order away! oh ya, post some pics, it's good for us too!
 
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