options on magnum build

-

running

Active Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
in my truck anywhere usa
Got a magnum out of a wrecked truck. 120,000 miles on it. Was originally thinking of heads, can, intake change. Now I'm wondering why not use the original heads. I saw where the engine came from. Truck wrecked and is now junk. Engine was obviously in running condition. I'm not saying I shouldn't look things over a bit.

From the research I have done on this site. It seems there are three heads people are using. Rhs, eq, and the edelbrocks. My thought is leaning towards the edelbrocks for two reasons. Smallest combustion chamber and they are aluminum. It seems by the time you get a 2.02 inch valve and the like. Your at the same price as the edsies. But stuck with iron heads and larger combustion chambers. It seems at that level they out flow the edelbrocks but again less compression and more weight.

It seems from reading the edelbrocks get hammered a lot about needing work out of the box. Then there is tons of people saying I have a pair and they have been fine out of the box.

I am leaving the short block alone. So changing pistons is out of the question. I am considering using the stock heads. Upgrading what I have to, to run the 380 horse can from Mopar or equevelent from a cam company. From researching here it sounds like molars crate 380 horse was making at least that. That's not bad. Especially if somehow I could wind up with 400 going that route. The negative thing I have been reading is they all crack. But it seems much of the cracks is not causing problems.

My goals are 12 second quarter mile times in a 69 valiant. I will be gearing the car based on the motor when its done. Converter to. I am trying to stay under three thousand on the motor from here. I have more if its really worth it.

So I'm open to input. Other than some reading here I don't know a lot. Being I'm never home. Over the road truck driver. I will be hiring my dad to do the engine work. He enjoys it. Has a nice shop. So I'm pretty lucky there. Just need to figure out what to get for this magnum. Oh yeah. The car will get driven a couple days a month. So gas mileage isn't a huge deal.
 
I bought a 2001 5.9 Magnum out of a Durango. Kept the EFI, changed the cam, valve springs and seals with the heads on, match ported the intake and heads, modified the beer keg intake, SCT tuned it, threw in some rod bearings and a Milodon oil pan. Hooked it up to a nice 727 with 3.23 gears and it hauls something fierce in my 68 Barracuda convertible.

Once I got it all in and running great, I found it only had 90 psi in the number 2 cylinder. The rest pumped 145 to 150psi. It also smokes on the right side on hard deceleration and acceleration. It's been running all over California like this for 2000 miles.

The motor and trans are coming out this year and a new 408" stroker with ported Eddies is going in, a fresh EFI tune from Hemi Fever and it should be in the mid tens on paper with a top speed of 175+ with the overdrive gears. Of course, that is all on paper. Wind resistance is brutal and exponential and that would be scary in that little car. I do think it will be pretty quick with 3.91's and a 200r4 with a 300 stall converter in it.

Either way, I do have a nice, very low mile roller EFI cam and modded intake I will let go at a great price if you're interested. You would have to use an SCT Tuner to get it to run though. The rest of the motor sans oil pan is going to the scrapper. I also have an ad up for the fresh 727, 2200 rpm stall converter, driveshaft etc.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3278 (Large).jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 300
I bought a 2001 5.9 Magnum out of a Durango. Kept the EFI, changed the cam, valve springs and seals with the heads on, match ported the intake and heads, modified the beer keg intake, SCT tuned it, threw in some rod bearings and a Milodon oil pan. Hooked it up to a nice 727 with 3.23 gears and it hauls something fierce in my 68 Barracuda convertible.

Once I got it all in and running great, I found it only had 90 psi in the number 2 cylinder. The rest pumped 145 to 150psi. It also smokes on the right side on hard deceleration and acceleration. It's been running all over California like this for 2000 miles.

The motor and trans are coming out this year and a new 408" stroker with ported Eddies is going in, a fresh EFI tune from Hemi Fever and it should be in the mid tens on paper with a top speed of 175+ with the overdrive gears. Of course, that is all on paper. Wind resistance is brutal and exponential and that would be scary in that little car. I do think it will be pretty quick with 3.91's and a 200r4 with a 300 stall converter in it.

Either way, I do have a nice, very low mile roller EFI cam and modded intake I will let go at a great price if you're interested. You would have to use an SCT Tuner to get it to run though. The rest of the motor sans oil pan is going to the scrapper. I also have an ad up for the fresh 727, 2200 rpm stall converter, driveshaft etc.

After reading that I'm thinking I may want to put new rings and bearings in the short block just in case. Thanks but I'm going carburetor. Car won't get driven enough to worry about mpg much.
 
I think you should toss a re-ring kit in it.


http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-er0213d


And when you re-grind your cam, call oregon, bullet and erson cams. Toss a timing set on it too.

I was thinking about it, but then when I pull the heads, take the bottom end apart, hone it, re-ring, buy another gasket set and do a valve job, invariably the heads will be cracked. In the end, I'll have an EFI 5.9 that I can get $5 or $600 for? I'm going to pull the cam, springs, and modified beer keg and take the rest to the metal scrap yard. The rest of the motor will go on a slow boat to China to help them pollute their air even further.

It's amazing what some of that purple degreaser, a little bead blasting and a couple of cans of pant will do. Here's the junkyard dog as I bought it and then in its new clothes...bad ring pack and all.

Besides, this motor had a nice couple of years as a pretty darn good running hotrod motor. It was a shame the #2 ring pack either had a broken ring or something going on with it in there. The up side is I got the EFI, exhaust and chassis reinforcements all do while it was in there and now it's time for some serious power to be dropped right in and the computer reflashed with a plug in SCT Tuner. OBDII rocks!


I already got another block at the maching shop as of this writing.

PS Buy a quality converter! I've got one for sale with , a low mile (2500) shift kited 727, low mile drive shaft and a 3.23 cone type 489 case third member for sale in the ads on this site. I'll give you a heck of a package deal on everything.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3052 (Large).jpg
    53.1 KB · Views: 294
  • IMG_3060 (Large).jpg
    53 KB · Views: 290
  • IMG_3182 (Large).jpg
    47.2 KB · Views: 279
  • IMG_3278 (Large).jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 280
I was thinking about it, but then when I pull the heads, take the bottom end apart, hone it, re-ring, buy another gasket set and do a valve job, invariably the heads will be cracked. In the end, I'll have an EFI 5.9 that I can get $5 or $600 for? I'm going to pull the cam, springs, and modified beer keg and take the rest to the metal scrap yard. The rest of the motor will go on a slow boat to China to help them pollute their air even further.

It's amazing what some of that purple degreaser, a little bead blasting and a couple of cans of pant will do. Here's the junkyard dog as I bought it and then in its new clothes...bad ring pack and all.

Besides, this motor had a nice couple of years as a pretty darn good running hotrod motor. It was a shame the #2 ring pack either had a broken ring or something going on with it in there. The up side is I got the EFI, exhaust and chassis reinforcements all do while it was in there and now it's time for some serious power to be dropped right in and the computer reflashed with a plug in SCT Tuner. OBDII rocks!


I already got another block at the maching shop as of this writing.

PS Buy a quality converter! I've got one for sale with , a low mile (2500) shift kited 727, low mile drive shaft and a 3.23 cone type 489 case third member for sale in the ads on this site. I'll give you a heck of a package deal on everything.

I got a 904 trans so the converter won't work for me. Interested in the rear. 8.75? Positraction or whatever Mopar calls it?
 
OMG its sure-grip! :violent1:

Ford 8.8 works too! :)


I'd recommend, if your not gonna get too wild on cam, check out gopnh.com, they spin some excellent OEM high-stall inexpensive converters, which will stall right around 22-2500.

Next step up I'd say PTC or Coan or Dynamic, or one of those.
 
You could save a few bucks,get that stock came core reground at Oregon Can Grinders,or Bullitt Cams. About 150-175 to be reground,compared to 300+ new.....
 
OMG its sure-grip! :violent1:

Ford 8.8 works too! :)


I'd recommend, if your not gonna get too wild on cam, check out gopnh.com, they spin some excellent OEM high-stall inexpensive converters, which will stall right around 22-2500.

Next step up I'd say PTC or Coan or Dynamic, or one of those.


Sure grip. Thanks for the correction!
 
-
Back
Top