Why not just get a new tank???
OT: Mopar plastic gas tank leaks;what to do?
- Thread starter Bill Crowell
- Start date
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Bill Crowell
Well-Known Member
Just thought I'd post a follow-up to this thread. I tried the "ABS slurry" method of repair, and it seems to have worked well.
1. Don't do anything to prepare the crack, such as widening it or drilling holes at its ends. The ABS slurry will flow into it just fine, and melt it as part of the slurry.
2. Cut pieces of ABS and put them in a jar with acetone to dissolve. At first the ABS will dissolve quickly, but as you add more plastic to the acetone it will dissolve more slowly. Keep putting plastic in the acetone until it won't dissolve any more; that is, so the slurry contains undissolved pieces of ABS.
3. Clean the area of the tank to be repaired with acetone and roughen it up a little.
4. Brush on the ABS slurry in thin coats and let it dry between coats. At room temperature, thin coats will dry quickly so you can apply another coat within just a couple of minutes. Don't try to brush it on too thick or only the top surface of the slurry will dry, but the part under the surface won't. (If this happens to you, let it dry for a day before continuing.) Keep applying thin coats until the patch seems to be thick and strong enough to suit you.
I repaired my tank about 2 months ago this way, and it passed the California evaporative emissions test with no leak whatsoever. The other methods of patching that I tried failed when I filled the tank with gas, but this method of patching is holding up great so far, and I don't see why it shouldn't continue to do so.
VERY IMPORTANT: try to figure out why your tank cracked in the first place. Examine it within a radius of a few inches from the crack for abrasions where metal has been rubbing on it. The crack will develop a few inches away from where a sharp spot on the underbody is contacting and abrading the tank. When you find the spot on the tank where it is contacting the body, transfer that location over to the body of the vehicle. You will find, for example, the spot-welded flange of a body panel sticking up in that location. Bang it down and put some thin foam over it before re-installing the tank, or you'll crack it again.
1. Don't do anything to prepare the crack, such as widening it or drilling holes at its ends. The ABS slurry will flow into it just fine, and melt it as part of the slurry.
2. Cut pieces of ABS and put them in a jar with acetone to dissolve. At first the ABS will dissolve quickly, but as you add more plastic to the acetone it will dissolve more slowly. Keep putting plastic in the acetone until it won't dissolve any more; that is, so the slurry contains undissolved pieces of ABS.
3. Clean the area of the tank to be repaired with acetone and roughen it up a little.
4. Brush on the ABS slurry in thin coats and let it dry between coats. At room temperature, thin coats will dry quickly so you can apply another coat within just a couple of minutes. Don't try to brush it on too thick or only the top surface of the slurry will dry, but the part under the surface won't. (If this happens to you, let it dry for a day before continuing.) Keep applying thin coats until the patch seems to be thick and strong enough to suit you.
I repaired my tank about 2 months ago this way, and it passed the California evaporative emissions test with no leak whatsoever. The other methods of patching that I tried failed when I filled the tank with gas, but this method of patching is holding up great so far, and I don't see why it shouldn't continue to do so.
VERY IMPORTANT: try to figure out why your tank cracked in the first place. Examine it within a radius of a few inches from the crack for abrasions where metal has been rubbing on it. The crack will develop a few inches away from where a sharp spot on the underbody is contacting and abrading the tank. When you find the spot on the tank where it is contacting the body, transfer that location over to the body of the vehicle. You will find, for example, the spot-welded flange of a body panel sticking up in that location. Bang it down and put some thin foam over it before re-installing the tank, or you'll crack it again.
O'Reilly sells a product called Red Cote. It works very well for pinholes and cracks.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
If it fails again, i'd replace it. If it was my ride i think i'd go buy the steel 22 gallon tank, sender, and straps somebody else posted on page 1 of this thread and just replace it. Seems like too much trouble for an extra 14 gallons.
greymouser7
Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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If there is a civilian version for sale, we use a chemical for Missile seals that is known as Polysulfide, it says on the cans, "for fuel systems, tanks, etc. it is a two part chemical, like an epoxy, it sets in around 30 minutes, our version looks like fudge, smells like high solids paint, epoxy, ++.
I would think that the gas tank repair coatings could help, Por-15 makes one, I believe the key is to remove the traces of fuel prior to AND wait the alloyed cure time++
I would think that the gas tank repair coatings could help, Por-15 makes one, I believe the key is to remove the traces of fuel prior to AND wait the alloyed cure time++
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