Out with the 318 in with?

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Backwood

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Alright, This is what i got a tired 318 with a bad cam. The Good or maybe not so good. I would like to build a motor. The good parts on the engine or maybe not so good. Eddy 1405 600cfm eddy 340 torker 2 intake. 340 X heads. I know theres no replacement for displacement. Should i go right to the 360. There everywhere around here. Can a std bore work? What cam? I have 1000.00 on my C.card just begging to get used. Should i punch out cyl's? It has stock converter so i know i have to get something better. 4.10's in rear but looking to go with something a lil more streetable 3.55,3.73?

I'm a noobie of engine building so be gentle:crybaby:

BTW my wife thinks Im doing a "tune-up":angel9:
 
A 360 is fine , not sure of torker II with that combo carb , 340 heads , and 3:55 with 4;10 or 3;91 up the compression and a big cam yes . Better to run an Air Gap or other dual plane with your 318 , 340 heads .
Torker needs more cam , heads and cubes
 
Found a post from Duster731. about proven 360 set ups. I like #3. I think it is the best match for my parts i have already. Would a 2000 stall work my buddy has one?

http://www.mopar1.us/dyno.html

Thanks guys for all your posts i stalk them and read alot.
:rock:
 
On the cheap ? Stock 360 4bbl, stab in a XE262 or XE268 cam and a set of headers.
 
Package 8 is what I'd go with Max torque and HP with almost stock parts ?? He has some impressive numbers ! Stock crank rods and piston , reworked heads ,RPM intake and 484 l 284 d cam ? wow !
My 1970 340 30 0ver 10.5:1 Mahle ,forged ceramic coated pistons , ported heads . a bit more cam with 750 Carb AiR-Gap intake windage tray high volume oil pump makes 412 HP 401 torque , so if you go with his build your doing GREAT !
Impressed , hope you can get the same numbers as he does
2000 would work 2500 work even better m and gears 3:73-4:10 if your going torker

I think those numbers he quotes for HP and torque are , what cam I say , wishful thinking ? I have built a few 360, 340 and 440's and had all of them put on a dyno ,not some plug in your parts and insto presto here are your "hp , torque and 1/4 mile times " , or maybe he has god in his shop ,cause those numbers are damn good !
 
Take the money you have on the CC and invest in a 4" crank and connecting rods. Crazy bang for your buck. should get your on your way to a really big smile.

Also ditch the torker intake
 
IF all you got is around $1,000 then just refresh the 318. it still be tough to do at that price.

To keep costs down I would use all those parts you have and get higher kb compression pistons.

400 hp can be had out of the 318 and today higher compression pistons are out there.

you need to decide cause 4.10 gears and a 4 inch stroke crank is not a good combo for longtime use. Personally I would never stick a 4 inch crank in those small blocks unless maybe you got an aftermarket block. Why not just get a big block motor if you want 400 plus ci ?Get a block that was design for the longer stroke, IMO
 
Alright, This is what i got a tired 318 with a bad cam. The Good or maybe not so good. I would like to build a motor. The good parts on the engine or maybe not so good. Eddy 1405 600cfm eddy 340 torker 2 intake. 340 X heads. I know theres no replacement for displacement. Should i go right to the 360. There everywhere around here. Can a std bore work? What cam? I have 1000.00 on my C.card just begging to get used. Should i punch out cyl's? It has stock converter so i know i have to get something better. 4.10's in rear but looking to go with something a lil more streetable 3.55,3.73?

I'm a noobie of engine building so be gentle:crybaby:

BTW my wife thinks Im doing a "tune-up":angel9:

At a $1,000 limit? Stay with the 318 for a rebuild. Punch it out only if need be. The boreing out of a engine is to clean up the cylinder walls for use, not to increase performance. Your only gaining a few cubes. It's nothing in terms of performance.

IF you can find a low mileage "LA" 360, running, (Non Magnum engine) from a junk yard or known sorce, that would bea good way to go.
(IMO a better way to go.)
You could swing the Carb, intake, heads over and get a new cam.

Once you decide on gears and tire size, I can make a cam recomendation. Right now, it would be to broad area to come up and say, "Use a cam of **** @ 050 with that combo." You'll still have a issue with a torque converter. Do you plan to leave it stock?
This would be a key item on what cam you can getaway with.


The small carb is not an issue with the 360 and the Torker II. You may miss a little top end power, that's it. While the single plane lacks a little torque over the dual planes (AKA RPM) repurchaseing an intake will eat up about a 5th of your grand alone.
 
I would beef up the 318 also its a good feeling to know your smoking some 327 and 350 engines with a 318 lol I would do kb pistons and 302 swirl port heads or a magnum set up but ur limited on intake choices headers and a 650 dp holley carb
 
I would find a 360 short block, and use the X-heads.
Comp Cams XE262 or XE268 work well.
For intake, Ede RPM or Air-Gap.
Your 600cfm Eddy will work great for now. Eventually go to a 750.
Nothing to crazy on the stall 2300-2500.
340 manifolds or TTI's
Just some ideas. Pretty close to what I run in my 70 Dart, and its a little tire shredder.

$1000.00 will be tough. Depends what you get the 360 for and if it needs machined.
There is a guy in the Los Angeles area Craigslist selling a complete 360, all machine work done,with boxes full of new parts for sale,complete short block,$700. That means he will take $500 or $550.
Theres deals out there, and cash is King right now. Take your time and search, Craigslist,Ebay,This site,borrow,barter,what ever it takes to get the parts on the cheap. This is actually a very fun process.Just take your time and look.
 
you need about 1500 to get a cast crank stroker kit and have the 318 bored & honed, then on the cheap would be to stick all the other parts you have back onto it, minus the intake and new cam.
so about 1700 or so on the cheap....at least till you find something else that neeeds changed.lol

jmo
 
Damn, I spent around $1300 at the machine shop...and that was just bore, hone, deck, and line honing....oh, and shaving a little off the piston tops. I think you should look around on here, Moparts, and anywhere else for an abandonded project motor that already has the machine work done. You could probably find a complete fresh short block for a little under $1000.
 
If you use what you already have, you will come out the least expensive. Do some internet research and see how many 318s have been involved in and WON super stock racing through the years. It's not just a few. A good stout 318 is easy to build and hard to beat in a good light street car like an A body. Just because all the magazines are buildin strokers and big bore motors doesn't mean a stock stroke 318 won't run.
 
Damn, I spent around $1300 at the machine shop...and that was just bore, hone, deck, and line honing....oh, and shaving a little off the piston tops. I think you should look around on here, Moparts, and anywhere else for an abandonded project motor that already has the machine work done. You could probably find a complete fresh short block for a little under $1000.



wow.....if you're spending more 600-800 for clean/mag/bore/hone/line hone/square deck w/ studs 'cleaned'.....you're getting bent over.imo

unless you are a famous race team that uses the most current high tech machines that still need paying for...LOL
 
At a $1,000 limit? Stay with the 318 for a rebuild. Punch it out only if need be. The boreing out of a engine is to clean up the cylinder walls for use, not to increase performance. Your only gaining a few cubes. It's nothing in terms of performance.

IF you can find a low mileage "LA" 360, running, (Non Magnum engine) from a junk yard or known sorce, that would bea good way to go.
(IMO a better way to go.)
You could swing the Carb, intake, heads over and get a new cam.

Once you decide on gears and tire size, I can make a cam recomendation. Right now, it would be to broad area to come up and say, "Use a cam of **** @ 050 with that combo." You'll still have a issue with a torque converter. Do you plan to leave it stock?
This would be a key item on what cam you can getaway

The small carb is not an issue with the 360 and the Torker II. You may miss a little top end power, that's it. While the single plane lacks a little torque over the dual planes (AKA RPM) repurchaseing an intake will eat up about a 5th of your grand alone.


Thanks again for all info. I think I'm going to wait till winter for build. That being said after work today I pulled cam out and cyl 4 intake is wiped. See pic. I would greatly appreciate a cam recommendation.

318 stock bore, 340 x heads, torker 2 intake, 600cfm eddy, hooker super comp headers, 8.3/4 4.10, stock converter and 14" tire.
 
like has been said....$1,000.00 really won't get you very far when it comes to buying and engine....let alone building one and even more so if you plan on having machine work done.

just pep up the 318 and drive it while you save your pennys until you can afford to stick another engine on a stand and build it how you want.

Id get a lumpier cam (you could even pick up a kit and run new springs and rockers and all),maybe something like a performer intake

just enough to add a little bit of UMPFF to tide you over.

put in a shift kit maybe.

and you mean 14" wheels? I sure hope you don't have 14" tires lol
 
Oregon Cam will regrind that for 70 bucks to anything on their grind list. Getting your compression up with those heads is gonna be the biggest thing. KB makes some nice pistons that'll do it.
 
With a TorkerII and a stock converter, the biggest cam you can use is only helped by the gearratio and small tire size. The converter is still holding it back. And as mentioned, compression.

I think the largest I'd go for a cam would be a Comp Cam, the XE268 cam. I think the car would be good for low 13's.
 
At a $1,000 limit? Stay with the 318 for a rebuild. Punch it out only if need be. The boreing out of a engine is to clean up the cylinder walls for use, not to increase performance. Your only gaining a few cubes. It's nothing in terms of performance.

IF you can find a low mileage "LA" 360, running, (Non Magnum engine) from a junk yard or known sorce, that would bea good way to go.
(IMO a better way to go.)
You could swing the Carb, intake, heads over and get a new cam.

Once you decide on gears and tire size, I can make a cam recomendation. Right now, it would be to broad area to come up and say, "Use a cam of **** @ 050 with that combo." You'll still have a issue with a torque converter. Do you plan to leave it stock?
This would be a key item on what cam you can getaway with.


The small carb is not an issue with the 360 and the Torker II. You may miss a little top end power, that's it. While the single plane lacks a little torque over the dual planes (AKA RPM) repurchaseing an intake will eat up about a 5th of your grand alone.

Hey Rumblefish I'm late to this thread but I'm curious as to why you would stay away from a Magnum 360? Aren't those roller cammed? Aren't those a little better stock then an LA series engine?
 
Hey Rumblefish I'm late to this thread but I'm curious as to why you would stay away from a Magnum 360? Aren't those roller cammed? Aren't those a little better stock then an LA series engine?

In this particular case, the OP has "LA" parts ready to bolt on.
eddy 340 torker 2 intake. 340 X heads.
A roller cam is 3X's the price of a basic "LA" Hyd. cam. An "LA" cam and lifter set can be about under $200. Solid or Hyd.
Magnum heads tend to crack.

Rather than start with a Magnum engine and require him to purchase Magnum only parts, the "LA" block can accept Magnum parts. A Magnum block can not accept the "LA" heads onless you drill the block. (More money spent!)

Then theres extra money in getting it to mate up to the converter of an "LA" engine. OK, the B&M balance plate is only a few bucks, but why spend it to begin with if you dont have to.
 
Okay I see what you're saying. Otherwise if the guy had more cash you would definitely go Magnum right?
 
Damn, I spent around $1300 at the machine shop...and that was just bore, hone, deck, and line honing....oh, and shaving a little off the piston tops. I think you should look around on here, Moparts, and anywhere else for an abandonded project motor that already has the machine work done. You could probably find a complete fresh short block for a little under $1000.
+1 Good suggestion. Take the time to search for a good deal. OR..... Just do a nice Stock Rebuild with a mild Cam for now. The Hardest Part is Honing the Cylinders and figuring what size Bearings to get. I'm not an expert but have done dozens of Stock rebuilds on various motors(In My younger Days). It's not really too hard and Easier on the budget. If you really want to eat 350's & 327's for lunch, It's gonna cost Ya' ....Good luck.
 
Okay I see what you're saying. Otherwise if the guy had more cash you would definitely go Magnum right?

Nope. I'm not spending this guy's cash just because I can spend this guys cash. That is to easy to do on the net, just throw out a long list of parts of "What ya should do." for what ever reason it is.

I reality, I'm thinking from a point of veiw that his wallet, well, is probably similar to mine. Hell, if he wants to re-spend a thouhsand dollor to get to square one, that's his biz, but maybe not his wallet. Otherwise the thread would have been different I think.

When I see a question posted up, I have to figure that the poster has "Some money" to do this. But not alot to just throw everything away in favor of what other people think is "Better" because they THINK something is better.

If this were the case, I'd would have recomended a new 392 create HEMI and a F.A.S.T. Dual quad F.I. system on a stroker and a 6 speed trans into a fully caged and box framed lightened car, supercharged or twin turbo'd.

Re-look at the first post. What is the easiest and cheapest way to do what the question he is asking?

Here is a major key ;
I have 1000.00 on my C.card just begging to get used.

Re selling the old stuff and rolling the money over into the new stuff with a targeted plan that you keep to is the cheapest way to do what he wants. A $1,000 C-card maybe alot for him, but I myself will say for me, that is about, not quite half of what I need for my next rotating assembly.


As far as a Magnum being better, the bottom line is, "If you think so." I say this mostly because no matter what engine you have, no matter the make, expense aside, they all have cave eats and which cave eats your willing to deal with are the ones you accept to have and work around.

Since 1964, the "LA" engine has been in production and until 1992, they have been raced in many styles of racing. If theres one engine family that has the majority of bugs worked out and solved, it has to be the "LA" engine.

The Magnum's cave eats are small since the big change from "LA" to Magnum is mainly the head change, with minor other issues that are easy to overcome, You have to decide if a wobbly head spring/valve chain/rocker assembly is something you want to work around or just stick with the "LA" bar rocker system known to run into the 8's, survive indurance racing as well as known to be a stronger system.

I can drone on and on about this, but in the end, your happiness and state of mind in thinking your set up is best and great is all that matters. Mental horse power wins over the truth everytime. And it makes the owner happy.

I dont care if you think the Magnum is a better engine, I dont care if the Magnum engine IS a better engine. He can make great use of what he has without breaking the bank, without going to a Magnum engine. Use what ya got or start from scratch, which can cost you big.
 
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