Overcharging, 2 fld alternator question

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4spdragtop

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Hi all, which wire goes to where on alternator?

70+ charging system, mopar elec ign, Mad bypass. 67 cuda
Thanks
Steve

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Steve,

"Overcharging" ?

Check each terminal to ground, Should be as if the leads on the Ohm meter are not touching "OL" or the like.

If one lead is 0-1ohm that terminal is shorted to ground and the alt is internally wired as a grounded field alt and is not compatible (without modifications) to your isolated field regulator.


In the real world though the field terminals can be interchanged on a unmodified isolated field alternator
 
Here's more info where I piggybacked off another thread.
As of now I have 0.8V at Ign1 ballast resistor and battery positive with key in "run". From what I've read, the lower the better, 0.3 or less. I tightened/squeezed the connector on the 70+ VR and it brought it down from 1.6V.
Link for more info.
Overcharging problems
 
70 + VR, brand new battery 12.25 static.
Del would a relay "solve" this voltage drop issue?
Actually Steve, the real problem is usually the supply TO that junction. Either dropped supply to the ign switch, or the connector, the switch itself, or the bulkhead connector terminal for the blue

Easiest fix is to stick a relay in that circuit
What voltage reg? What's the battery's condition?
 
OK, so got a new VR plug. Prev was good, BUT when I rewired, I made the blue wire a little short and wanted to redo to help tidy up. So I'm curious if anyone can verify my schematic is correct before I redo some wires. All my underhood connections appear good and solid, so the voltage drop(0.8V from batt +ve to ign1/run on ballast) i am assuming MAY be under the dash.
Before I crawl and curse under the dash I would like to install the new VR plug but need clarification if it's correct?
Sorry for the shitty drawing, trying to keep it simple. Easier said then done....67 cuda, 70+ charging, elec ign and MAD bypass.
My head is spinning :BangHead:
Thanks
Steve

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Steve, not sure about the way you drew the VR connector. Here is for clarification. Everything else OK. The two wires on the VR cannot be switched. The blue and green on the alternator can be switched.

elec.jpg
 
I currently have the light blue/yellow from ECU spliced into the blue/tracer wire from ign 1 and "N" cavity on bulkhead. Correct?

20250513_121506.jpg


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Don't feel bad, Steve. I made my living as a mechanic from a really young age and I can barely read a wiring diagram. It's always been my weakest point. People don't think so when they see me at work, but they don't understand that I just get lucky. LMAO
 
Thanks Rob, every year it's elec bullshit. The enjoyment is constantly getting sucked out of this car. It is not enjoyable when you HAVE to work on it.
I chose to "redo" the grilles, that took way more effort than I thought. Go to start up 1st time this year and "discovered " elec issues. If I had known about elec issues I would've skipped the grilles... :BangHead:
Don't feel bad, Steve. I made my living as a mechanic from a really young age and I can barely read a wiring diagram. It's always been my weakest point. People don't think so when they see me at work, but they don't understand that I just get lucky. LMAO
 
Thanks Del, I drew my VR upside down(on purpose) as that's how I mounted it on firewall. I've seen that schematic, but it doesn't take into consideration the ECU?
Steve, not sure about the way you drew the VR connector. Here is for clarification. Everything else OK. The two wires on the VR cannot be switched. The blue and green on the alternator can be switched.

elec.jpg
 
I've always tried to be mindful of the V. This year was a no start issue, then finally it started and noticed the V creeping up higher than usual. Started some checks and here we are lol
Some/most may call me stupid but both my cars have been charging at that rate to no ill effects, 5-year batterys last 7-8 years.
 

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