Overpriced fish?

[TF360]

Yes it's worth it if you inspect it, and everything looks good. I mean you'll offer 20,000 or less. Inspect the body and underside real close for any prior damage or excessive rust. Ask the guy how long he has owned it, and if the motor and trans are in perfect condition. Then listen real close to his answers. Some of the cars from that area are rust free and in great condition.

 

[Kemper]

I know you're not actually reading what I'm saying and comprehending it, but what the hell. There is no proper way to use fiberglass resin and bondo to cover a hole in steel. NONE. I don't care how you did it, it was wrong and it will fail.

And your argument about preservation is horseshit. Complete, worthless, horseshit. Wanna know why?

Because you have to paint your fiberglass repair. That cuts the legs out from under any point you're trying to make.

If you have to paint the fender anyway, there's no reason you can't weld it up or have it welded up. The only good argument against welding up the hole properly is that paint and bodywork cost a fortune and welding on the fender means painting it. Simple as that. But you have to paint your fiberglass repair too. And since you'll never properly bond your fiberglass resin and bondo abortion to the fender, it will fail. And since you banged in the edges of the hole to get that abortion to stick, you stretched the metal, making the proper metal repair even harder to accomplish.

The only reason to fiberglass over an antenna hole and then paint over that is to pass it off to someone else that doesn't know the complete abortion of bodywork they're inheriting. Fiberglass over metal is a cheap flipper trick for scam artists.

If you wanted to remove the antenna and plug the hole, well, they actually make antenna plugs for that with a rubber seal that will keep the water out. The antenna is gone and the plugs are pretty low profile, they look fine and do the job, no painting of the fender needed. Cheap and easy. But that's not what you're trying to do. You're trying to pass off horseshit as a proper repair, so you fiberglass and paint, and guarantee that the next person to own that car will have to deal with an even bigger problem that what you started with, because you MADE IT WORSE. That's not preservation.

Your "repair" won't last a long time- it's a cover-up at best and scam at worst. I've seen that horseshit done, and I've personally had to fix crap like that on many occasions. If you don't have the skills to weld in the patch, learn them or take it to someone that has them. And if you don't have the skills to do it right, arguing with someone that does and has seen the aftermath of that BS doesn't make you look better. It makes you look like a lazy POS that would rather take short cuts than learn the skills to do things right.

" It makes you look like a lazy POS that would rather take short cuts than learn the skills to do things right. " ^^^^^^


Year One , whom I have purchased from before is a sponsor here and have a book they are offering and described as -

" Fiberglass and reinforced plastics are becoming more and more commonplace on today's cars. However, these materials have long been used in racing applications, and with modern equipment and technology. With sections covering materials, moldmaking, structures, and health and safety, this book is required reading for anyone interested in working with fiberglass, kevlar, and reinforced plastic. Softbound, 154 pages with 166 B/W sketches, and illustrations. By Forbes Aird. "

Since you insist that there is no way to use fiberglass properly I would not suggest you buy the book . For anyone that has an open mind I think it would be a good investment.

 

[Mtrhead]

Looks like it's done top notch... most any early a guy would love to have theirs done like that...premium patrs too

 

[MILO]

I would go take and look it over real good and make a offer you think is good to pay

 

[BillGrissom]

" It makes you look like a lazy POS that would rather take short cuts than learn the skills to do things right. " ^^^^^^


Year One , whom I have purchased from before is a sponsor here and have a book they are offering and described as -

" Fiberglass and reinforced plastics are becoming more and more commonplace on today's cars. However, these materials have long been used in racing applications, and with modern equipment and technology. With sections covering materials, moldmaking, structures, and health and safety, this book is required reading for anyone interested in working with fiberglass, kevlar, and reinforced plastic. Softbound, 154 pages with 166 B/W sketches, and illustrations. By Forbes Aird. "

Since you insist that there is no way to use fiberglass properly I would not suggest you buy the book . For anyone that has an open mind I think it would be a good investment.

To pile on. Some cars have fiberglass bodies, like Corvette (still?) and Delorean underneath the thin stainless sheet. Show cars often have a skim coat of Bondo over the whole body, to get sanded to mirror-smooth straightness, at least per cable shows. Bondo is similar to fiberglass, but weaker. For thicker regions or to span holes, use Bondo Glass, which has chopped fiberglass, as the first coat(s). A big fuss whether better to first prime bare sheet-metal or apply Bondo or fiberglass directly to bare metal. I always prime it since water can move between the steel and epoxy. That was a major problem in the "lifetime" frames that Delorean and TVR used, which were steel tubes coated with epoxy. Deloreans were rusting away on the dealer lots.

 

[Kemper]

To pile on. Some cars have fiberglass bodies, like Corvette (still?) and Delorean underneath the thin stainless sheet. Show cars often have a skim coat of Bondo over the whole body, to get sanded to mirror-smooth straightness, at least per cable shows. Bondo is similar to fiberglass, but weaker. For thicker regions or to span holes, use Bondo Glass, which has chopped fiberglass, as the first coat(s). A big fuss whether better to first prime bare sheet-metal or apply Bondo or fiberglass directly to bare metal. I always prime it since water can move between the steel and epoxy. That was a major problem in the "lifetime" frames that Delorean and TVR used, which were steel tubes coated with epoxy. Deloreans were rusting away on the dealer lots.

I was over at Menards this morning and picked up the higher grade Bondo you are talking about. I will be doing a larger area than before and that will be better for that.
I am also going to be using some bare metal and galvanized screening and will take your advice and prime

 

[72bluNblu]

" It makes you look like a lazy POS that would rather take short cuts than learn the skills to do things right. " ^^^^^^


Year One , whom I have purchased from before is a sponsor here and have a book they are offering and described as -

" Fiberglass and reinforced plastics are becoming more and more commonplace on today's cars. However, these materials have long been used in racing applications, and with modern equipment and technology. With sections covering materials, moldmaking, structures, and health and safety, this book is required reading for anyone interested in working with fiberglass, kevlar, and reinforced plastic. Softbound, 154 pages with 166 B/W sketches, and illustrations. By Forbes Aird. "

Since you insist that there is no way to use fiberglass properly I would not suggest you buy the book . For anyone that has an open mind I think it would be a good investment.

Yeah, they're talking about fiberglass bodies. Fiberglass bodies and parts are fine, especially on race cars. Lots of cars use composite bodies of one kind or another. That's not what I said, not even close.

Slathering a steel fender in fiberglass resin is a whole different ball game. Especially if you're fixing a HOLE. So let's recap, since you're not following. Driving a car with composite bodyparts- just fine. Using fiberglass to repair fiberglass or composite parts- also fine! Using fiberglass to cover up rusty holes in a steel bodied car because you're too lazy to do it right- POS move.

To pile on. Some cars have fiberglass bodies, like Corvette (still?) and Delorean underneath the thin stainless sheet. Show cars often have a skim coat of Bondo over the whole body, to get sanded to mirror-smooth straightness, at least per cable shows. Bondo is similar to fiberglass, but weaker. For thicker regions or to span holes, use Bondo Glass, which has chopped fiberglass, as the first coat(s). A big fuss whether better to first prime bare sheet-metal or apply Bondo or fiberglass directly to bare metal. I always prime it since water can move between the steel and epoxy. That was a major problem in the "lifetime" frames that Delorean and TVR used, which were steel tubes coated with epoxy. Deloreans were rusting away on the dealer lots.

Yeah, none of that is using fiberglass and resin to cover a hole in a steel fender. Body filler, used properly with good prep, is fine. But it's not meant to be covering air is it now? It's also not mean to be very thick, but yet incompetent morons will slap it on a 1/4"+ thick and be long gone when it cracks and falls off. Just because a product exists does not mean that every use of it is legitimate.

I was over at Menards this morning and picked up the higher grade Bondo you are talking about. I will be doing a larger area than before and that will be better for that.
I am also going to be using some bare metal and galvanized screening and will take your advice and prime

Yeah, I saw your thread with the rusty holes, galvanized screen, and bondo over the top to hide the damage. Just verifies 100% you're not qualified to use Play-doh, let alone pass off anything you're doing as "bodywork".

People who use screen and bondo to cover rusty holes belong in the lowest level of hell. You're not fixing anything, you're HIDING it. Those quarter lips on your car would rust out SLOWER if you did nothing at all. Your screen and bondo trick will not seal, the bondo WILL absorb moisture, and it will now be trapped in the space behind the bondo to breed more rust. Maybe it takes a few years, but the bondo will swell up, the rust will continue the entire time, and eventually the whole thing will fall apart.

How do I know? This is my Challenger not too long after I bought it. For the record, I knew it had a bunch of bondo because the guy I bought from had bought it online just based on pictures, then realized after he had it in person that he'd been royally screwed over by flipper lowlifes and was in over his head, and turned around and sold the car at a substantial loss. I knew it was rough, but it was also a running, driving E-body that I could afford so I bought it anyway.

This is about 3 years later- the bondo is swelling up and the rust is bubbling

4 years after that. Yeah, some inbred, mouth breathing degenerate bondo'd over a rusty hole. There's a piece of sheet metal sandwiched in there between layers of bondo to cover the hole. It held up long enough to rip some dude off on an internet sale, and the "repair" was so absolutely dog **** that full quarters are the only way to fix it now.

So yeah, don't sit there and argue that screen over a rusty hole with bondo on top is a legit repair. It's 100% unadulterated bullshit perpetrated by scam artists and lazy POS's.

 

[Kemper]

Yeah, I didn't do any of that you are talkibg about . You need to go back and read carefully. I probably only have about the equivalwnt of a 4 x 4 inch area when adding up all that I did so for in bondo. The rest of the car so far is all original sheet metal . You provided no pics or data to show how the work was done or treated .
People like you are useless to the person that may want to preserve their car that their parent had before they passed and will never be able to afford 10's of thousands.
You are also useless to many other people in many other situations.
You should probably be on For A-holes Only Forum.

 

[Kemper]

Yeah, they're talking about fiberglass bodies. Fiberglass bodies and parts are fine, especially on race cars. Lots of cars use composite bodies of one kind or another. That's not what I said, not even close.

Slathering a steel fender in fiberglass resin is a whole different ball game. Especially if you're fixing a HOLE. So let's recap, since you're not following. Driving a car with composite bodyparts- just fine. Using fiberglass to repair fiberglass or composite parts- also fine! Using fiberglass to cover up rusty holes in a steel bodied car because you're too lazy to do it right- POS move.


Yeah, none of that is using fiberglass and resin to cover a hole in a steel fender. Body filler, used properly with good prep, is fine. But it's not meant to be covering air is it now? It's also not mean to be very thick, but yet incompetent morons will slap it on a 1/4"+ thick and be long gone when it cracks and falls off. Just because a product exists does not mean that every use of it is legitimate.


Yeah, I saw your thread with the rusty holes, galvanized screen, and bondo over the top to hide the damage. Just verifies 100% you're not qualified to use Play-doh, let alone pass off anything you're doing as "bodywork".

People who use screen and bondo to cover rusty holes belong in the lowest level of hell. You're not fixing anything, you're HIDING it. Those quarter lips on your car would rust out SLOWER if you did nothing at all. Your screen and bondo trick will not seal, the bondo WILL absorb moisture, and it will now be trapped in the space behind the bondo to breed more rust. Maybe it takes a few years, but the bondo will swell up, the rust will continue the entire time, and eventually the whole thing will fall apart.

How do I know? This is my Challenger not too long after I bought it. For the record, I knew it had a bunch of bondo because the guy I bought from had bought it online just based on pictures, then realized after he had it in person that he'd been royally screwed over by flipper lowlifes and was in over his head, and turned around and sold the car at a substantial loss. I knew it was rough, but it was also a running, driving E-body that I could afford so I bought it anyway.

View attachment 1716446723
This is about 3 years later- the bondo is swelling up and the rust is bubbling
View attachment 1716446726

4 years after that. Yeah, some inbred, mouth breathing degenerate bondo'd over a rusty hole. There's a piece of sheet metal sandwiched in there between layers of bondo to cover the hole. It held up long enough to rip some dude off on an internet sale, and the "repair" was so absolutely dog **** that full quarters are the only way to fix it now.
View attachment 1716446724

So yeah, don't sit there and argue that screen over a rusty hole with bondo on top is a legit repair. It's 100% unadulterated bullshit perpetrated by scam artists and lazy POS's.

I have more fun things to do than go over everything you misrepresented in your post . You previously said that there is no place for bondo in any car and should not be used on metal . I'm not searching for your exact wordsb but that is what you said.

I showed and talked about how to treat the repaired areas from the inside to keep further damage from occuring. If a person is going to drive their cars on salt covered roads for a period of time they will have to maintain them , repaired or not.

I did not use screen over a rusty hole , only fiberglass mesh in a prepared tapered hole and there is no bondo on top of metal , although I think a person could do that in certain situations.

Furthermore I am not arguing with you,only correcting your lies and misrepresentations about me. You offered no alternative to spending 10's of thousands on a car that has numerous body issues and people like you make excuses and let them rot and look like ship because they are a reflection of you .

 

[72bluNblu]

I have more fun things to do than go over everything you misrepresented in your post . You previously said that there is no place for bondo in any car and should not be used on metal . I'm not searching for your exact wordsb but that is what you said.

No sir, I never said that. You can look, it's not there. I said fiberglass resin and fiberglass should never be used on metal. Equating fiberglass with bondo is a misrepresentation, they're not the same thing. Just like guys that think fiberglass resin can be used like panel bond. It's what happens when people are ignorant of the details.

I showed and talked about how to treat the repaired areas from the inside to keep further damage from occuring. If a person is going to drive their cars on salt covered roads for a period of time they will have to maintain them , repaired or not.

I did not use screen over a rusty hole , only fiberglass mesh in a prepared tapered hole and there is no bondo on top of metal , although I think a person could do that in certain situations.

There is NO situation where you should fiberglass mesh, resin and bondo to cover a hole. Period. There's absolutely nothing you can do that will keep that from damaging the car further than what you started with. Steel flexes at a different rate than fiberglass. Your hack job will crack, delaminate, and fall out. And before it does that, it will be trapping moisture and rusting the host metal.

I'm sorry you lack the automotive skill/experience to understand that. What you're doing to your car is not preservation. You're hiding damage in a way that is making the damage worse over time so the car "looks better" to satisfy your ego. I'd rather drive a rusty POS than a rusty POS that's been hack job repaired to trick people.

Furthermore I am not arguing with you,only correcting your lies and misrepresentations about me. You offered no alternative to spending 10's of thousands on a car that has numerous body issues and people like you make excuses and let them rot and look like ship because they are a reflection of you .

I have given alternatives in all of my posts. A harbor freight welder and some 20 gauge sheet metal doesn't cost "10's of thousands of dollars" if you just rattle can over the repair when you're done. You're doing that anyway, so I don't see why welding in a patch and putting a skim coat over that is so objectionable to you. That repair would last. Fiberglass mesh over steel is a hack job, there is NO way to do it that won't make the car worse than what you started.

When you're done, the skills needed to repair your car will be several levels above the skills you possess. That's a fail. You're in over your head.

 

[Kemper]

No sir, I never said that. You can look, it's not there. I said fiberglass resin and fiberglass should never be used on metal. Equating fiberglass with bondo is a misrepresentation, they're not the same thing. Just like guys that think fiberglass resin can be used like panel bond. It's what happens when people are ignorant of the details.



There is NO situation where you should fiberglass mesh, resin and bondo to cover a hole. Period. There's absolutely nothing you can do that will keep that from damaging the car further than what you started with. Steel flexes at a different rate than fiberglass. Your hack job will crack, delaminate, and fall out. And before it does that, it will be trapping moisture and rusting the host metal.

I'm sorry you lack the automotive skill/experience to understand that. What you're doing to your car is not preservation. You're hiding damage in a way that is making the damage worse over time so the car "looks better" to satisfy your ego. I'd rather drive a rusty POS than a rusty POS that's been hack job repaired to trick people.


I have given alternatives in all of my posts. A harbor freight welder and some 20 gauge sheet metal doesn't cost "10's of thousands of dollars" if you just rattle can over the repair when you're done. You're doing that anyway, so I don't see why welding in a patch and putting a skim coat over that is so objectionable to you. That repair would last. Fiberglass mesh over steel is a hack job, there is NO way to do it that won't make the car worse than what you started.

When you're done, the skills needed to repair your car will be several levels above the skills you possess. That's a fail. You're in over your head.

Lot's of excuses to do nothing there. You have nothing to offer to people that may want to preserve their car without spending a lot of money. That may be because you have nothing to offer in that situation.
I think I do and there will be no problem keeping this car from deteriating further after this type of preservation. As an added bonus you get to make your car look " nice " and you can get all original parts back on it.
Take care of it, keep it covered, especially in the winter for added protection.

As far your assertion - " ......fiberglass with bondo is a misrepresentation, " You're grasping at straws there. We both know what we're taslking about and if you meant something else ,you we're talking about something that we weren't talking about.

Don't discourage people from preserving their car unless they do it your way . They may not be able to afford to or want to .
I've been in both situations and can afford to take any of my cars to a resto shop and pay them to do so . I have also been in a position where I would have to let a car deteriate because of priorities , funds etc.

I'm not against anything you suggest. If people are capable of and/or have the desire to do things your way they will.
If not, they should not be referred to as a POS,con man or any other names people may refer to them as unless they let their car rot in front of them or do it your way.

 

[MILO]

A car flipper special bondo buggy buy cheap a little patch a little patch there spray some shiny paint Sell high they take the money and run

 

[mayhem]

Lot's of excuses to do nothing there. You have nothing to offer to people that may want to preserve their car without spending a lot of money. That may be because you have nothing to offer in that situation.
I think I do and there will be no problem keeping this car from deteriating further after this type of preservation. As an added bonus you get to make your car look " nice " and you can get all original parts back on it.
Take care of it, keep it covered, especially in the winter for added protection.

As far your assertion - " ......fiberglass with bondo is a misrepresentation, " You're grasping at straws there. We both know what we're taslking about and if you meant something else ,you we're talking about something that we weren't talking about.

Don't discourage people from preserving their car unless they do it your way . They may not be able to afford to or want to .
I've been in both situations and can afford to take any of my cars to a resto shop and pay them to do so . I have also been in a position where I would have to let a car deteriate because of priorities , funds etc.

I'm not against anything you suggest. If people are capable of and/or have the desire to do things your way they will.
If not, they should not be referred to as a POS,con man or any other names people may refer to them as unless they let their car rot in front of them or do it your way.

Gentlemen, the OP asked a question and his original thread had devolved into two totally and distinct threads - one regarding the worth of the car and the other is a pi$$ing contest over sheet metal vs bondo. Please, you metal vs 'glass boys take your arguments to another thread. Thank you.

 

[Kemper]

Gentlemen, the OP asked a question and his original thread had devolved into two totally and distinct threads - one regarding the worth of the car and the other is a pi$$ing contest over sheet metal vs bondo. Please, you metal vs 'glass boys take your arguments to another thread. Thank you.

I think everything was okay untill you brought this back up from Tuesday.

 

[mayhem]

I think everything was okay untill you brought this back up from Tuesday.

Sorry, I was just reading it for the first time tonight.

 

[Kemper]

Sorry, I was just reading it for the first time tonight.

The OP kasn't been back on since his OP so I guess he didn't want to talk about it anyway.

 

[mayhem]

The OP kasn't been back on since his OP so I guess he didn't want to talk about it anyway.

I guess not. Too bad because there are a lot of knowledgeable folks giving him valuable advice.