Paint Gun Recommendations for a semi-pro

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challengergary

challengergary

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Looks like I finally killed my Devilbis HVLP Plus paint gun. Had it for about 12 years or so and have dropped it WAY too many times. It's time to retire it.

What do you guys that do some painting recommend nowadays? I don't want to spend a ton of money but realize that you do get what you pay for in a lot of ways when it comes to tools...
 
challengergary said:
Looks like I finally killed my Devilbis HVLP Plus paint gun. Had it for about 12 years or so and have dropped it WAY too many times. It's time to retire it.

What do you guys that do some painting recommend nowadays? I don't want to spend a ton of money but realize that you do get what you pay for in a lot of ways when it comes to tools...
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Gary, I recently went through the same scenario, my finishline 2 (ancient) is now dead.


Although I learned on Sata NR92/5 guns and was interested in the digital 3000, after much research I narrowed it down to the iwata 400 series. I ended up with a hybrid spray supernova ls400 (slightly fancier version)

check out the you tube videos, of the w400 and ls400 and see for yourself. I only painted jambs 15 years ago when I was sweeping floors at the body shop. I haven't painted in over 10 years, picked up this gun and was able to achieve excellent results. (see my build thread)

I went with the 3M PPS system instead of a traditional cup. Very cool for shooting upside down. Check out this video it is a little dry, but you get the idea

[ame]http://youtu.be/OV3V7_ZfAK8[/ame]
 
I have the Iwata LPH400, the one that preceeded the Super Nova, basically the same gun without the Star Trek looks, love it! I have a Sata RP as well and it's a nice gun too but the Iwata is my choice.
 
I also have the PPS system and it rocks, plus you may be able to save a few bucks by not getting the cup with the gun unless it doesn't come with one anyway? Seem to recall I saved $80 or so doing that.
 
Rob said:
I also have the PPS system and it rocks, plus you may be able to save a few bucks by not getting the cup with the gun unless it doesn't come with one anyway? Seem to recall I saved $80 or so doing that.
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correct, you can buy it with the pps adapter, cup and collar instead of the cup. Liners are cheaper on amazon, but possibly cheaper through your paint jobber if you have an account.

These guns are pricey $600-800 depending on source and options.

I like the star trek gun, but you are right, functionally they are essentially the same gun. I bought a gently used one to try it out, and shot color and clear. I will buy a virgin one with a 1.4 tip to use as a dedicated clear gun when it is time to do the all over paint.
 
I recently bought the Iwata LPH400 with the Platinum 1.3 tip. Have used it for both base and clear coats and love it. You have to spray much closer to the piece being painted but the results or phenomenal. No need to cut and buff anymore.

Just FYI- the paint supply store I use is also a custom, high end body shop. All they use are the LPH400's. Only difference is that the owner has everyone of the guns set up with the Orange tip. This is designed for water based paints which we don't use much where I live. He doesn't use any water based paints but said the results using that tip is the reason he won't use anything else.
 
txtopcat said:
I recently bought the Iwata LPH400 with the Platinum 1.3 tip. Have used it for both base and clear coats and love it. You have to spray much closer to the piece being painted but the results or phenomenal. No need to cut and buff anymore.

Just FYI- the paint supply store I use is also a custom, high end body shop. All they use are the LPH400's. Only difference is that the owner has everyone of the guns set up with the Orange tip. This is designed for water based paints which we don't use much where I live. He doesn't use any water based paints but said the results using that tip is the reason he won't use anything else.
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I agree if I was doing collision/oem, there would be no reason to cut and buff. For show quality, there is still a need.

IIRC iwata no longer uses the various specialty colored tips for metallics, water based etc on their latest guns

I had the same experience painting close. Also strange is to shoot clear you have the fan wide open, but the results do not lie.
 
I went to a painting seminar a while back after they had switched over to water borne and low VOC paints. This was specifically for the low VOC paints that many of the pros were having a tough time adjusting to, the rep was using the super nova and was freaky close to the panel but moving very fast. It does seem strange spraying from 4 or so inches but it works :shock:

I also recently picked up the LPH80, almost the same price as the big gun but it's an amazing mini :thumblef:
 
I also run the lph400 but can honestly say I have done my best jobs with my Finishline hands down. I have about 8 guns along with several Iwata's with conventional gravity cups and swiveling cups (which are no longer relevant) but there is something about my Finishline that is my fallback gun. Didn't care much for the Sata digital even after shelling out 800 bucks when it first came out and now its my candy gun specifically but the LPH 400 is good all around.
 
gtmopar- I have a couple of the older Devilbiss guns as well. I have the Starting Line and the Finish Line. For years they were all I used. For some reason I am getting much better results form the LPH400. I'm sure personal preference, what you are used to, tip size, how poorly I used to clean my guns, and so forth plays a large part in the final outcome. I'm glad to see guys still using the Devilbiss and the the LPH400, makes me feel like I got something right for a change! ;)

CudaChris67- You're right about the show quality versus an 8.5 or 9 out of 10. For me the difference in what I was achieving before versus now is so different that I'm very pleased without having to take the time to c&b. I bet anything I will end up having to do so on the 71 Demon in progress now. Going with black every little "oops" is magnified.
 
Wow! Looks like the poll is pretty unanimous! For all you pros. What would you recommend for a beginner? Aside from school. That's the obvious choice
 
In my opinion it depends on how many cars you are going to be painting. Amortized over 3 or 4 cars or more the price of the high end guns isn't much. Also depends on what you can afford. To me the higher end guns not only perform better but are easier to use as well. I'm not a pro by any means but have been in this hobby for a number of years. Technology is a wonderful thing but guys were getting great results in the past without all the bells and whistles as well.
 
I am kinda old school, I like a Sharpe 775.
You have to change the tips, Red-acrylic, Blue-Base, Yellow for clear.
It lays alot of paint down fast so it works great for over-all jobs...Alot of overspray when using this gun.
 
I can honestly say its 80 percent technique 20 percent gun. I met this guy recently who was turning out some jobs that would make your jaw drop that was using a binks cup gun because that is what he felt comfortable using and knew how it reacted to different types of materials and different brands. So in CA where solvent based paints are becoming a thing of the past quickly(all shops have to shoot water Bourne) I'm not totally in agreement on technology makes for better finishes. I've seen shitty painters that have every technologically advanced tool in the business versus a guy that sprays in an old chicken coup with a cup gun that in my opinion isn't worth the acetone it costs to clean it out, pumping out flawless cars with little to NO orange peel. Seems like all the finishes now a days seem to have more orange peel than I can remember. Again a lot of it is materials and VOC and a lot of it is good ol fashioned technique. And for the guy above remember black isn't any harder to shoot than any other color, I know I'm shooting my dart black right now, its 99 percent prep. It's easy to fix a screwup in the paint but bodywork.........not so much. Good luck on the finished product.
 
I have a Sata 3000 that I love. It's my first choice. Next would be the Super Nova. I have a fair amount of gun time behind the Super Nova and it's fantastic.

Now if I didn't already own the Sata 3000 and was looking for a new gun, I would be very tempted to go with the Super Nova.

I hate the Sata 4000. I feel it was a step backwards and not an upgrade to the 3000.
 
sireland67 said:
I am kinda old school, I like a Sharpe 775.
You have to change the tips, Red-acrylic, Blue-Base, Yellow for clear.
It lays alot of paint down fast so it works great for over-all jobs...Alot of overspray when using this gun.
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And with the price of materials, alot of over-spray hurts. But I hear what you are saying. Some fantastic old guns out there but the transfer rate is low.

The newer stuff gives transfer rates of 70% and above. More paint going on the car instead of the floor and filters.
 
MoparDaddy said:
Wow! Looks like the poll is pretty unanimous! For all you pros. What would you recommend for a beginner? Aside from school. That's the obvious choice
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I am not a pro, but I like tools that are the best I can afford, and provide great results.

I understand a super nova or some of the other guns are out of reach new. I have painted with HF guns too.

I bought mine used on ebay and got lucky that it was a great buy. I also search my local craigslist as good guns occasionally show up there too.

A warning about guns <$100:

Many of these inexpensive guns are copies of old sata guns. Great guns when manufactured by germans by their happy little elves, but the knock offs are just poor copies. Often times these guns are sold at harbor frieght as a purple gun on coupon for $15, and also pop up on ebay/autobodytoolmart etc as some other name (and color)for $50, $80, $100 etc.

As 1968FormulaS340 alluded to, even though the guns that were copied were good for their day, their transfer rate sucks, so even a good one will waste paint.
My bottom line is if you are going to spray with a $15 gun, you might as well pay $15 for it, not a hundred

This is what led me searching for a great gun at the right price.
 
Thanks guys for all of your help. Looks like I will be searching out a Iwata LPH400! Gonna hit some Pawn Shops and see if I can score a deal before I bite the bullet and spend the bucks on a new one, however, due to budgetary limitations :)
 
challengergary said:
OK - what's the difference between the LPH-400 and a W-400?
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I have not shot a "w" but-
best i could gather when i was reseaching this buy is the lph is for areas with air quality /voc compliance issues (CA, IL, etc), and the W is more old style. From what I have read, people like both, and/or have trouble telling the difference.

hopefully someone else has actually shot both and can give a first hand account
 
Honestly I don't have much experience with the w400 but as far as I can tell not much difference at all. W400 they say is popular with mural guys so maybe it was a different adjustment as far as pattern width is concerned. Stay with the lph400 and you'll be dialed. Amazon has some decent prices along with autobody tool mart. That's where I order all my chit. Great prices on longboard rolls.
 
Update - I ended up buying the 400W. LOVE IT!!! It sprays awesome, virtually no orange peel and great metallic distribution. Barely have to wet sand and buff. The only complaint i have is the cap is a royal pain in the butt to get on & off.
 
I still use the Iwata W400 have one for base and one for clear. They seem to do a pretty good job.
 

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