Hey Mopar fans,
I've been driving the 66 Barracuda now for about a year or two (minus 5 months for winter) and the thrill is kinda gone as kool as "patina paint" may look... it not the same as a coat of shinny paint. My paint is now worn out with a semi-gloss look at best and surface rust bleeding thru what's left of the now shot color (Dupont Centri paint with the 2000 pack urethane converter kit - back in the day was a huge improvement to a single stage paint system.) I painted this car last in 1989 put approx. 3,000 miles and then it sat outdoors with no love till about 3 years ago.
What is "Patina paint?" Well I learned the term watching the TV show Fast N' Loud where the comical group of car guys will some times leave a worn out paint job and just clear coat over the shot paint (light sanding involved) and leave it "all original." The rust (not rot) and missing paint is part of the "sell ability" of the car. This is making a comeback as people don't have the "green backs" or time to properly prep and paint a car. Also as the regulations are getting tighter and tighter to paint your own car... A body shop is the way to go. Or is it? Please note that in Connecticut where I live, You cannot buy paint easily with out a body shop license. There are ways around this but for me I follow the rules.
I was buying parts the other day at the local Mack truck dealer and I noticed a paint on the shelf labeled "Synthetic Enamel" in all the basic colors used for truck bodies and cabs. Now trucks go on average 400,000 to 1,000,000 miles so how bad could it be. All my painting equipment is old school not the new style water bourn or HVLP guns. This paint is a single stage vehicle paint just like days ago (the 80's) made by Kirker Automotive finishes in Newburgh, NY. It also goes by the name SYN-GLO. So, I worked in a body shop for a few years and back in the day -painted many vehicles including my Barracuda's current paint job back in 1989. So how much? The cost of a gallon of this enamel and all the start up paint related supplied (reducer, hardener needed for this gallon of paint) was like $200.00... I can afford that I also will need to buy new DA paper, a water separator and primer, thinner, sealer ect. I spoke to other business that used this paint monthly and said for a general body paint it is easy to spray, holds up really well and holds it color and shine. I looked at trucks with no wax and 5 year old of this paint and it still looks good and shiny. Imagine what happens when you actually wash and wax it?. Only silver and gold have metallic flake so the colors are basic red, black, dark green, white, darker blue ect. I think there are like 18 stock colors.
Now a few questions:
1)The body of the Barracuda is good with little repairs. The hood and the roof and trunk have rust spots (not rot) where the paint gave up years ago and these rain drop sized spots are a scab looking item all over the panels (top side only not the sides). How do I get rid of that so they don't come back thru the new paint a few years from now? (Is this acid rain damage?)
2)I am going to paint the panels off the car separately from the actual body. (only able because this is basic black and no metallic.) The area I have to spray in is not large enough to fit the car all assembled and me with a paint gun. Its ok, but any advice on doing this IF you yourself did it that way?
Thanks,
JOE
I've been driving the 66 Barracuda now for about a year or two (minus 5 months for winter) and the thrill is kinda gone as kool as "patina paint" may look... it not the same as a coat of shinny paint. My paint is now worn out with a semi-gloss look at best and surface rust bleeding thru what's left of the now shot color (Dupont Centri paint with the 2000 pack urethane converter kit - back in the day was a huge improvement to a single stage paint system.) I painted this car last in 1989 put approx. 3,000 miles and then it sat outdoors with no love till about 3 years ago.
What is "Patina paint?" Well I learned the term watching the TV show Fast N' Loud where the comical group of car guys will some times leave a worn out paint job and just clear coat over the shot paint (light sanding involved) and leave it "all original." The rust (not rot) and missing paint is part of the "sell ability" of the car. This is making a comeback as people don't have the "green backs" or time to properly prep and paint a car. Also as the regulations are getting tighter and tighter to paint your own car... A body shop is the way to go. Or is it? Please note that in Connecticut where I live, You cannot buy paint easily with out a body shop license. There are ways around this but for me I follow the rules.
I was buying parts the other day at the local Mack truck dealer and I noticed a paint on the shelf labeled "Synthetic Enamel" in all the basic colors used for truck bodies and cabs. Now trucks go on average 400,000 to 1,000,000 miles so how bad could it be. All my painting equipment is old school not the new style water bourn or HVLP guns. This paint is a single stage vehicle paint just like days ago (the 80's) made by Kirker Automotive finishes in Newburgh, NY. It also goes by the name SYN-GLO. So, I worked in a body shop for a few years and back in the day -painted many vehicles including my Barracuda's current paint job back in 1989. So how much? The cost of a gallon of this enamel and all the start up paint related supplied (reducer, hardener needed for this gallon of paint) was like $200.00... I can afford that I also will need to buy new DA paper, a water separator and primer, thinner, sealer ect. I spoke to other business that used this paint monthly and said for a general body paint it is easy to spray, holds up really well and holds it color and shine. I looked at trucks with no wax and 5 year old of this paint and it still looks good and shiny. Imagine what happens when you actually wash and wax it?. Only silver and gold have metallic flake so the colors are basic red, black, dark green, white, darker blue ect. I think there are like 18 stock colors.
Now a few questions:
1)The body of the Barracuda is good with little repairs. The hood and the roof and trunk have rust spots (not rot) where the paint gave up years ago and these rain drop sized spots are a scab looking item all over the panels (top side only not the sides). How do I get rid of that so they don't come back thru the new paint a few years from now? (Is this acid rain damage?)
2)I am going to paint the panels off the car separately from the actual body. (only able because this is basic black and no metallic.) The area I have to spray in is not large enough to fit the car all assembled and me with a paint gun. Its ok, but any advice on doing this IF you yourself did it that way?
Thanks,
JOE
