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russhal

russhal

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Ok, doing a little paint work can't decide what to use. I've looked at DuPont but wow!! My friend tells me to use the chroma base. 1 quart for my eng bay is $190!!! The color of my car is 1971 K6 autumn bronze metallic. Nason is about $160 a gallon. Not near as good of quality and this is base coat clear coat so the prices are for color only. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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russhal said:
Ok, doing a little paint work can't decide what to use. I've looked at DuPont but wow!! My friend tells me to use the chroma base. 1 quart for my eng bay is $190!!! The color of my car is 1971 K6 autumn bronze metallic. Nason is about $160 a gallon. Not near as good of quality and this is base coat clear coat so the prices are for color only. Any input would be appreciated.
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Rasshal,

You get what you pay for. The less expensive brands have less expensive components. And as a result the durability isn't as good as the premium brands, specifically the UV and light stabilizer packages are not even close to the premium line paints, the intermediates and pigments are lacking as well. I could go on but you get my drift.

I suggest you do your engine bay in a less expensive brand and the rest of the vehicle in a premium brand.

All three major brands (BASF, PPG, and Dupont) also carry the less expensive lines of refinish paints. For color match reasons use a single brand of paint (premium for the exterior and the cost effective line for the engine bay and under the deck lid.

The "off brands" of refinish paint are cheap for a reason, stay away from them.

Good luck with your refinish project.
 
sscuda said:
Rasshal,

You get what you pay for. The less expensive brands have less expensive components. And as a result the durability isn't as good as the premium brands, specifically the UV and light stabilizer packages are not even close to the premium line paints, the intermediates and pigments are lacking as well. I could go on but you get my drift.

I suggest you do your engine bay in a less expensive brand and the rest of the vehicle in a premium brand.

All three major brands (BASF, PPG, and Dupont) also carry the less expensive lines of refinish paints. For color match reasons use a single brand of paint (premium for the exterior and the cost effective line for the engine bay and under the deck lid.

The "off brands" of refinish paint are cheap for a reason, stay away from them.

Good luck with your refinish project.
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Good advice. I am a hobbist, though I did work at a restoration shop for a couple years after high school, I use PPG's deltron 2000, it is a good paint- and pretty expensive. one of PPG's lower lines and single stage is omni. I used that to paint my engine and transmission and it looks great. I wanted single stage for easy touchup, but it was only $40 for the qt.! To save $ I use southern polyurethanes (order from them directly via phone) for clear coat, primers, and even the reducer for the paint. I talk about paint quite a bit in my build thread if you want to check it out.
 
Thanks for the input sscuda and ChrisCuda67. I don't like to cheap out I just didn't expect metallic brown to be so high. It has a lot of bronze pearl in the paint. Color matching is a lot better with the higher quality base coats too. That will be important later when I do the outside of the car.
 
there is a shop close here that builds everything from street rods to full restos. he suggest use cheaper line for the epoxy, sanding primers, sealer, but remember the more $$ ya pay for the finish coat, longer it will last.
fillers: again ya get what ya pay for, but OMG, the price of the better stuff and i'm so bad, I waste how much of it anyway!???? but I can't afford to pay the pro to do it. LOL
I just have to wonder how long it will be before it is "illegal" for anyone except a full blown shop to even buy paint, filler, or masking tape!!???? just me..
 
russhal said:
Thanks for the input sscuda and ChrisCuda67. I don't like to cheap out I just didn't expect metallic brown to be so high. It has a lot of bronze pearl in the paint. Color matching is a lot better with the higher quality base coats too. That will be important later when I do the outside of the car.
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My color also has a good bit of that russet pearl and also a color shifting agent, retails over $1000/gallon just for the base. I found a guy in NY that sells ppg base coats online at a significant discount.
 
You get your protection, whether from the sun or liquids from the clear coat. Yes, there is some tinuvin in the base, but its the clearcoat that does the majority of the work.
 
Louie70Dart I thought about using the cheap base with the good clear but my friend that is doing the painting says that because there is so much flake in it, that it will have a lot more depth and the color matching is much better in the chroma base. DuPont is the main brand sold here. I've always liked PPG though.
 
breakstuff said:
It's shop line new.

They dropped the omni name
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I just got a qt of Omni MTK single stage...maybe its old stock?

russhal said:
CudaChris67, I like the color on your car. What color is that?
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It is Mango Tango /Toxic Orange code: PVG used 08 up Chrysler products
in the sun it shifts between bright orange and a copper color

The color on my engine is another Chrysler color code: DR (Viper ZDR) Graphite Grey Pearl Metallic
 
Ok...coming from a cheap a$$ here. If you have body work and you are not a s good as a good professional it will show up. I can't afford to pay for a high dollar paint job either. Nor does my body work warrant a perfect paint job. I know this comment is apple and oranges but. I just bought my color in (sea mist green)Acrylic enamel (oranges) single stage paint. Paint... Reducer and hardener and they put some in 3 spray bombs for under the hood all for $225. I know it is not the new base coat clear coat (apples) but it was highly acceptable several years back. Just my opinion.
 
What some people are forgetting to tell you is, single stage is harder to spray! If it sags you get a huge line of colors that look like an upside down rainbow. Then it needs to be sanded flat, repainted and hopefully it doesn't do it again. I only use base clear. I have been doing this for 25 years, I have found that PPG's omni plus line is very user friendly and wallet friendly. Would I use it on my car? No, because I believe you get a better finish product with a better quality, yes higher priced paint. And be aide its a darker color I would never single stage it. The darker the color the more heat is absorbed, which translates into faster paint breakdown. Look at all the pealers that are out there, most are single stage darker colors! Also base clear is easier to fix later on down the road, ie bump and bruise repair. Hope this helps!
 
I have done body work for 24 years and this is what I know, a lot of what Dupont and ppg offer is much more expensive than nason or Omni alot because it made for high output shops, the color match are more accurate, and the flash times are very fast, and are the clear choice for most production shops. But of all the cars I have painted I cannot say they are more durable. I painted a lot of cars and have great results with all of it. My advise is if your on a budget Hell yea Nason is good. But if your pockets are deep and your car is perfect spend the money for the expensive stuff.
 
O ! yea paint prices are crazy. Had a friend just buy a pint of base for me to spray his engine bay, $107 a pint ! I would use base clear if you haven't done a lot of spraying. Single stage can be tricky if the color is met. Good luck
 
There is no way mlmmopar I'm going single stage! I've been using base coat clear coats for about 20 years. I did my engine block in Hemi orange base coat clearcoat. It looks very good.
 
Hey...I don't disagree with any of this. What I am saying is if money is the issue there are cheaper routes to go. And yes if there is a sag or metalic run it stinks. I thought he was looking for a cheaper way out, And if my car was to be a show car I would dig deeper.
 
dartnabout I was wanting opinions on the cheaper base coats as compared to the top of the line. I like single stage in certain areas like the bottom of the car. Easy touch up. That's a whole other discussion. What should I paint the bottom of the car with?
 
I don't have an answer to that. I have a 70 dart on the rotisserie and bottom is almost done/clean. I do not know what to paint it with. And then do I paint it and then undercoat it. That is another discussion and there is a pretty current thread on that. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
 
No need to be sorry dartnabout. I'm interested in all ideas. I would say money doesn't matter but always does. I may use the cheap base coat and top of the line clear. The clear is what takes the punishment. I don't plan on using under coating. My car stays inside. One of my friends used bed rhino liner on the bottom of his car. Not as pretty as painting it the color of the car. But it shouldn't chip easy.
 
kevindahle I've used the nason base. It works fine and I might just use it with the high dollar DuPont clear. It's about $60 dollars a quart and base would be $45. I could sure use the $145 I would save for something else.
 
True, the better paints do use better resins. And it's also good to get more than enough for what you need, just because the stuff, (special effects like metallic and micas) can be very tough if not impossible to match. That's why the chromaflair paints, those are the color change ones that are not only expensive to buy, they are impossible to fix. Oh, what I said about the resins, there are only so many materials out there for paint making, the difference is in the resins. The only "exotic" pigments are the chameleon/chromaflair. One reason those are expensive is that is whats used on money. See the seal on paper money? That is the chromaflair/chameleon flop. Just to buy and store the stuff you need to be bonded from the government to make sure you are legitimate. Place I used to work at got all sorts of micas and xirallics as samples. Well, I got to take them home when the shelf life expired. The stuff is made from mica....same as sand. Whats the shelf life for sand? LOL. Ok, anymore and I will babbling, if not already.
 
kevindahle said:
I love Nasons single stage urethane it is tough and looks great.
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I like SS paints. I haven't had any issue with Nason SS either. I like the Utech SS 3.8 with the high solids. Perfect body work should have expensive pait but, my stuff are drivers.
 
I don't make my cars or any bodies car that I work on as smooth & shiny on the bottom as the top. I epoxy the bottom then spray bed liner on. I have sprayed the bed liner on then base & cleared the whole bottom. Ive noticed that most of the cars out there that are painted underneath are trailer queens & most guys are afraid to drive them. What the sense of having them. Im just saying
 
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