Painted Front Bumper Assistance

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It'll fit if you remove the inner support structure, Swingers and Sports use the same front end sheet metal.
BUT, from the ad:
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SputnikOne said:
Ah, shiet, yeah I live in Hawaii.
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It might be worth it to contact the seller, he might be willing to work with you if you set up the shipping and sent him a label, maybe?
Or if you've got someone here on the mainland that could act as a go-between.
 
Professor Fate said:
It might be worth it to contact the seller, he might be willing to work with you if you set up the shipping and sent him a label, maybe?
Or if you've got someone here on the mainland that could act as a go-between.
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Thanks professor. I didn't notice the no Hawaii shipping. It is in fair shape for the price.
 
Here's some closer pictures of the damages before I strip it sometime later.

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RustyRatRod said:
I do remember that car! Pretty well in fact. I wonder though if it's the same process and type of chrome? Heck, it might be. I have no clue. I always thought chrome plating metal was an "electro" plating process. Fiberglass kinda takes the "electro" out of the equation....but again, I know nothing about it.
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I don't know how it was done either. I do remember that car with what I assumed was a chrome metal bumper and wondered why they put a metal bumper on a prostock drag car.
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Here it is also with bumper guards. Don and Clyde made their own fiberglass parts. They could have easily made the bumper guards too.
Clyde taught me how they made their fiberglass parts and I made Colt parts there for a while.
 
My layman's understanding of the process is that they first paint it with a high copper-content paint, which makes the plastic/fiberglass conductive. They can then follow up with the nickel and chromium plating.
 
That's what I was thinking, not worth stripping it, will probably just keep the ugliness until I can get a replacement probably.
 
Professor Fate said:
My layman's understanding of the process is that they first paint it with a high copper-content paint, which makes the plastic/fiberglass conductive. They can then follow up with the nickel and chromium plating.
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That makes sense.
 
jeff alder said:
You don't have to strip a bumper to see that. It's cooked! Thats probably why it was painted. Maybe even filled before it was painted.
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I agree. I would put a fiberglass one on it and paint it. And also paint the rear one to match.

 
Just body Color? Do you think black would look good on white? I kinda like the chrome on it.
 
I like Professor Fates' solution in post#19. IF you can find a fiberglass bumper for a beaker. I'd try Unlimited fiberglass.
Your biggest problem is your,location.

Edit: forget unlimited products. Bumpers for 67-69 and 70-72. No beaker bumpers listed.
 
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Not really related, but just decided the fender plate and discovered it was originally Top Banana Yellow with a matching top, guess the yellow parts in the engine bay are probably the factory paint then. Makes me wonder if I should make it yellow again now.
 
I didn't read all the responses, but you could grind out any rust, use bondo to fill and fix it or weld it if necessary. Prime it up and finish it smooth. Then wrap it with a chrome wrap. Just my .02.
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Too bad they make no mention of the paint brand or manufacturer. Dead silence during the vid, no mention of it in the comments either.
 
Professor Fate said:
Too bad they make no mention of the paint brand or manufacturer. Dead silence during the vid, no mention of it in the comments either.
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By the looks of the floor in the booth, I'd have to guess that it is cosmichrome or something like it. They use real silver. Thats why the floor of the booth is wet and black. Home - EN
 
Professor Fate said:
Interesting- but definitely eliminates the do-it-yourselfer.
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I actually own a master cosmichrome system. I bought it used but in new condition. I have yet to employ it but did some demoing with the original owner of the system who I bought it from. It has a heavy ammonia smell and the silver application turns anything it touches to black as the silver oxidizes. It's a bit messy. I'm working on a spray system that contains all of that plus a small baking booth. The silver before the top coat is very vulnerable to fingerprints and such. It has tints for the clears too so you can do gold or any mixture you can come up with .

The clear they provide has a slight violet tint to it. That is why it does not yellow like other systems. I plan on experimenting with my own primers and tinted clear as these products are expensive and come from Canada.

Here is a more DIY system. https://angelgilding.com/angelchrom...nSvBbHKuaXiAUqnxvGdwR3Y8tfJOPeHxoC0HQQAvD_BwE
 
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