Painting Problem Questions

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jhdeval

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Okay two questions. I am spraying epoxy primer (PPG) and it is going just fine but I am getting a textured surface. I can best describe it like a leather grain very fine bumps. I am trying to figure out what I am doing to prevent it from going down smooth. The next question is does it matter? Will the high build just use it as a "grip" surface?

Next question. 65 Barracuda door trim. There is a stainless piece that runs along the outside lower window how does it get removed? Also should I remove the doors to prime them?
 
From the description sounds like it's dry spraying maybe? Are you using a conventional or gravity gun and hplv or lphv? Sounds like also may not be reduced enough
 
Gravity HVLP 1.8mm Tip

I am not reducing it at all. I am going from can with hardener to gun. It is supposed to be a 4:1. If I need to reduce it what should I use?
 
my Y2K high build is 4 paint 1 reducer and 1 hardener. it went on like glass. i would reduce yours it to thin it out. you can buy PPG reducer by the pint.
make sure you sand out what you have sprayed nice and smooth. air pressure too high?
 
How far from surface, and how fast? Both will result in dry spray. Try spraying something else for practice. mabe the 1.8 tip is too small.
 
73AbodEE - I am spraying Epoxy not High Build.

Louie70Dart - I have tried several different combinations. I have tried fast and about 6-8 inches (poor coverage decent result) and slow 6-8 (best coverage and result). I have tried slow and about 10-12 (poor coverage and LOTS of waste).

What would be the best combination? Also please don't forget about my secondary questions.
 
It does not sound like you are doing a wet on wet, in other words you are not going to top coat the epoxy the same day. This means you will have to sand it at some point in the future before you spray on primer/sealer. Having a little orange peal in the primer is not that critical because as I said you will have to sand it and you can make it smooth before top coating. To help you spray it on smooth you should reduce the epoxy. A good rule of thumb would be a mix of 4-1-1. Using a HVLP gun will also help you save product as it reduces the overspray. The manufactures recomendatons for mixing are usually on the can or you can find it on line. Hope this helps
 
gunmetal72 That does help and you are right. My plan is to spray high build in the future right now I am trying to preserve what I have there are several spots where the paint has peeled all the way to sheet metal. I am also just doing clean up and looking for any other possible issues.
 
73AbodEE - I am sorry if I came off rude. That was not my intention. I appreciate the help I did not realize you treated each primer in the same way. Please do not take my comment as rude.
 
jhdeval said:
73AbodEE - I am sorry if I came off rude. That was not my intention. I appreciate the help I did not realize you treated each primer in the same way. Please do not take my comment as rude.
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its all good. i have been there. i hate sanding as much as the next guy, and changing the mix and adding reducer really helped me with the 'gator skin. sometimes excessive air pressure will try to dry the primer on its way out of the gun. thick epoxy wont atomize correctly. im by no means any kind of pro, just giving you suggestions based on my experiences. I would mix up a little batch with reducer and find a test piece and play with your air pressure a little bit, and i would suggest you have a good filter to keep compressor oil and condensation out of your air line, if you dont already. good luck with it, you will find that "sweet spot" :D
 
All coatings whether it's primer to clear coat has a recoat window. Any longer and you have to "reactivate" it by sanding or using a scotch brite pad. I'm not familiar with any automotive primers. I am familiar with strontium chromate epoxy primers used on aircraft. Those are usually a three component mixes. Even some of the surfacers will recommend reducers. If it's thinned out too much it will dry out before it hits the metal. If it's real hot out when you spray will also affect it. Hope this helps.
 
Needs more material volume! Your epoxy is drying before it hits the panel. As mentioned before "Dryspray" If it is really hot outside use a slower activator. You may be moving too fast as well.

I use a Satajet which is a HVLP gun. I spray at 2 bar or 29psi at the gun. 75% overlap. You can search youtube for Satajet factory videos. The will teach you a standard procedure. Most HVLP guns are quite alike. I also set my gun to spray a 10" wide fan
10"s from the substrate(Panel).. Test this several times on a piece of masking paper taped to the wall. Guns settings is everything when painting. Well, your speed from side to side and keeping the fan square with the surface your painting.

Try it again!!
 
I always spray epoxy 4:1:1 With either DT reducer or MR Omni Reducer for the last part. This lets the epoxy primer level out not so orange peely or as a sealer. They dont say so on the can but this has been a normal practice before they took the lead out of the primer, And my paint rep told years ago I can still use this practice he also said they wont put this on the mixing ratio because they are trying to sell other products as sealers. And get at least a 1.3-1.4 tip for your gun. The best all around gun is a Devilbiss Plus.
 
Well I have to agree that I need to reduce it but I live down here in "hell" AKA Georgia and over the weekend it was 90+ degrees. So I am sure that had something to do with it also.
 
jhdeval said:
Well I have to agree that I need to reduce it but I live down here in "hell" AKA Georgia and over the weekend it was 90+ degrees. So I am sure that had something to do with it also.
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Yep! I live near Houston, Tx. so I feel your pain. Humid too!

Like 4404spd stated, I too use the correct temperature reducer to reduce primers and sealers to help the flow out of the materials. Without the reducer the thick materials will have lots of "Orange Peel" texture.

Just scuff it with a maroon scotchbrite and reshoot it!
 
Reduce it, use correct pressure and overlap 1/3 of your first pass. Relax by whatever means, limit distractions, dont shoot scared and lay that .... on!
 
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