Pass the bong please.....

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FASTBACK340

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Well, maybe not that bad yet, but I'm definitely getting to the point of needing a sedative :drunken:

Why.....

Does ARP sell main bearing studs that don't fit under the oil pump?

Does a factory windage tray need to be tweaked with a hammer?

Does my engine gasket set read 340-360, and there are NO 360 specific seals?

I guess it's a stock bolt under the pump,huh? And the tray didn't need to be whacked too badly. And I can buy the oil pan set. It's just that when I get the time to assemble, something always goes in the shitter....

I wanna drive this F`in thing!
 
You'll have to cut and grind the stud and nut under the oil pump. Relax though, building a small block Mopar is just that, building. Chebies are assembled.

When I built my motor there was not a single part I bought that didn't need modification to fit and work properly or that required another previously installed part to be modified. I became quite adept at using a Bridgeport, metal lathe, drill press, band saw, die grinder, hacksaw and various files. At least you'll know that when you are done you have really accomplished something. Enjoy.
 
Guitar Jones said:
I became quite adept at using a Bridgeport, metal lathe, drill press, band saw, die grinder, hacksaw and various files. At least you'll know that when you are done you have really accomplished something. Enjoy.
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If I have to use half that stuff.... :shock:

Seriously, I'm just getting impatient. I know it take's time. It's just getting it throught my thick skull that's gonna take time.... :geek:
 
Chad just went through that problem when he built his 340. He suggested using an aftermarket windage tray with the ARP main studs. He also did alot of grinding to the nut and stud to get it to fit under the oil pump.
 
yes to all of those things. You will have to cut down the bolt and nut under the oil pump and drill out the windage tray to accept the studs and make a new hole for the back stud. Went through the same crap. Also if you are using a morroso oil pan and pick up yes a little hammer adjustment is needed to get the pick up to line up in the pan. i just massaged the windage tray a bit and it was fine just make sure it has clearance from the crank but mine wasnt even close.
 
chad72duster said:
yes to all of those things. You will have to cut down the bolt and nut under the oil pump and drill out the windage tray to accept the studs and make a new hole for the back stud. Went through the same crap. Also if you are using a morroso oil pan and pick up yes a little hammer adjustment is needed to get the pick up to line up in the pan. i just massaged the windage tray a bit and it was fine just make sure it has clearance from the crank but mine wasnt even close.
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I cut down the rear stud under the pump. It came out beeyootiful! The pick up hits the back of the baffle in the pan. I'll notch that tomorrow at work. The studs are in the block, crank is in, and everything looks good. So far... :scratch:

Taking tomorrow night off. I got tickets to see Clapton @ Madison Square Garden. Should be good...... :D
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Well, maybe not that bad yet, but I'm definitely getting to the point of needing a sedative :drunken:

Why.....

Does ARP sell main bearing studs that don't fit under the oil pump?

Does a factory windage tray need to be tweaked with a hammer?

Does my engine gasket set read 340-360, and there are NO 360 specific seals?

I guess it's a stock bolt under the pump,huh? And the tray didn't need to be whacked too badly. And I can buy the oil pan set. It's just that when I get the time to assemble, something always goes in the shitter....

I wanna drive this F`in thing!
Click to expand...


Dam and I thought I was bad. I have been pretty good at not throwing tantruams with my current engine build up till this last week when every thing has hit the fan.
 
Mopardude said:
Dam and I thought I was bad. I have been pretty good at not throwing tantruams with my current engine build up till this last week when every thing has hit the fan.
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Yeah, I feel like a little ***** crying about this #@#$%^ motor too.... It's just annoying to get two steps forward, then three back. :eye:
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Mopardude said:
Dam and I thought I was bad. I have been pretty good at not throwing tantruams with my current engine build up till this last week when every thing has hit the fan.
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Yeah, I feel like a little ***** crying about this #@#$%^ motor too.... It's just annoying to get two steps forward, then three back. :eye:
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Yea I know how that goes. My engine should have been done back in the beginning of May. Had to take the block back to the machinist a couple of times. Had to have custom pushrods made because Compcams doesn't make pushrods that go with their roller rockers & solid cams.

Sometimes it seems to never end.
 
Had to have custom pushrods made because Compcams doesn't make pushrods that go with their roller rockers & solid cams.

Sometimes it seems to never end.
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Ah yes. Pushrods. That's going to be tomorrow night's task. Let's see.... .509 lift w/1.6:1 rollers...Hyd. lifters... Hmmm.... I bet that this is going to increase the size of my ulcer :puker:

The good news is I got the bottom end buttoned up :cheers:
 
HawaiiDuster said:
It will all be worth it the first time you start it up and cruise down the road :wink:
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Ah yes..... Car alarms going off..... birds flying out the tree's....small animals scurrying under bushes....children crying....neighbors frowning.


I can't wait. :thumrigh:
 
Thats sort of what happened a few weeks ago when we took Chads car out for the first time :D You should of seen the look on the faces of those guys on the golf course :lol:
 
Yes, man it is definately worth it. Looks like you have a 360 and the same valve train as mine as well as car mine 69 fastback. Finally got a mine running decently yesterday decided to give her a little gas after a couple of miles. Brought her up nice and slow then at about 3500 I gave her a healthy amount of gas (didn't floor it didn't want tires to brake loose) WOW!!! Now my neck is sore almost wasn't expecting it. Was like intsant power, and someone took some ivisible hands and shoved me back into the seat :D The neck is sore(tells you how unexpected but finally it peformed the way it should I was) but it is a proud sore. Sorry to hijack your thread with my good news hope your engine gives you a big surprise too. My builder had the same problem with windage tray etc. He is mainly a GM guy, but was mad that all the MOPAR parts for sale don't fit the MOPAR's. Becasue how many DIY have the machining parts that a engine builder has.

Jason Foster
 
it will al be worth it in the end!!!!!

Hey MOPAR DUDE whats up with the push rods?? I am running a comp set up fro the whole top half , cam , push rods and RR with no problem. I had to run a .050 under chevy rod but thats what comp called for I just called them and asked what rod I needed and they told me. i took 1 from from my buddies shop and moked it up and it was perfect. I ordered them of the shelf i think it was 7.750.

My engine is running great if I could just get my tranny guys head out of his ***. Yesterday broke shifter fork and the slide pin came out and the slider went past the gear and locked up in 3rd. It had a total of 20 miles on after a $550 rebuild. i might have to beat this dude down. His reputation is shot.
 
chad72duster said:
it will al be worth it in the end!!!!!

Hey MOPAR DUDE whats up with the push rods?? I am running a comp set up fro the whole top half , cam , push rods and RR with no problem. I had to run a .050 under chevy rod but thats what comp called for I just called them and asked what rod I needed and they told me. i took 1 from from my buddies shop and moked it up and it was perfect. I ordered them of the shelf i think it was 7.750.

My engine is running great if I could just get my tranny guys head out of his ***. Yesterday broke shifter fork and the slide pin came out and the slider went past the gear and locked up in 3rd. It had a total of 20 miles on after a $550 rebuild. i might have to beat this dude down. His reputation is shot.
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Are your pushrods Ball and cup design? If you tell me you have 7.750 ball n cup pushrods I just may explode.

I am running all Comp Cams parts in my valve train as well. Solid Cam, Magnum Roller Rockers, Timing gear. But when I went to order the pushrods they told me they didn't make 7.750 ball and cup design. So they sent me to Smith brothers and they set me up. The whole deal kinda pissed me off.

Their timming gear set pissed me off too. I installed how I would any timing gear set matched up the the dots like I was supposed to. Got most of the engine together than after I got the valve train in place I noticed that it didn't seem like the valves were opening at the correct time almost like something was 180 out. I thought maybe I had the crank sproket was on wrong at first because it was one of those goofy ones with the 3 keyways slots, but after trying all 3 keyways nothing seem to get better. So I called up the Comp techs and they said both dots on both sprockets had to be installed in the 12 o'clock position. So I put it on how they said and its fine now. I thought maybe I had my head up my *** and didn't read any info that came with but I checked the box and there was nothing in there about how to install it. It kinda pisses me off because if I was just doing a stock rebuild or replacing just a worn gear set someone could easily 180 the engine like me get it all back together and be goint nuts on why it won't fire.
 
no i dont need ball and cup rods i am running the comp steel RR which take a standard push rod you must be running a huges set up or something differant. i know the hughes RR call for a Ball and cup.

Thats funny when i set my cam I set it with the dots at 6 and 12 just like a stock set up no problem and it was a comp DBL roller :?: Some time you just have to wonder about those guys. I bought the whole set up as kit cam, timming chain, lifters springs and retainers set it up then they told me the size push rod I needed to go to the steel RR no problems. Set it up adjusted the lash and she fired up on the fisrt spin over no problems.
 
chad72duster said:
no i dont need ball and cup rods i am running the comp steel RR which take a standard push rod you must be running a huges set up or something differant. i know the hughes RR call for a Ball and cup.

Thats funny when i set my cam I set it with the dots at 6 and 12 just like a stock set up no problem and it was a comp DBL roller :?: Some time you just have to wonder about those guys. I bought the whole set up as kit cam, timming chain, lifters springs and retainers set it up then they told me the size push rod I needed to go to the steel RR no problems. Set it up adjusted the lash and she fired up on the fisrt spin over no problems.
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No they are Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers. You may have the more expensive set of rollers I know they take normal pushrods. According to the tech I talked to they only make 2 different rollers for the SB mopars.

I pieced together my set. I had the rollers rockers all ready from another engine I built. I bought the timing gear set from Summit and the cam right from COMP.

Yea I took tomorrow off so I could have a 4 day holiday weekend to get my engine done. Tomorrow I will dissassemble that one head i am having problems with it making ticking noises when the valves close. Hopefully it turns out to be something easy than I can wrap her up and start putting it in the car.
 
Hey Mopardude how long have you had those rockers? They made a production change at one time and the type of pushrods you need changed :scratch:
 
HawaiiDuster said:
Hey Mopardude how long have you had those rockers? They made a production change at one time and the type of pushrods you need changed :scratch:
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I bought them about 2 years ago.
 
I got an older set with the ball and cup pushrods, but the pushrods came in a set with the rockers. I bought mine about 5 yrs ago :roll:
 
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