I had that PCV valve rattle too. I restricted the rubber line wit an old small socket and it stopped doing it immediately. I figured I had the wrong PCV valve on it.
Regarding your timing. You may have too small of an initial accelerator pump shot. You might want to try a slightly bigger one or see if it is delaying bit as the carb is opening.
You can also optimize your timing by remove and plug the vacuum advance line from the distributor. Advance the timing until the vacuum peaks, back it off and see if it peaks at the same spot. If so. That is your initial timing. You may have to lower the idle several times to get back to youor desired specs.
Then adjust with bushings etc, or weld the ends of the slots on the distributor advance mechanism and use a small chain saw file to reshape the slots so that your initial timing PLUS your mechanical timing equal 36 total or within a few degrees of it either way. you will have to experiment to see what it likes and how much octane you can give it.
Now hook you vacuum advance line back up. it should be hooked to manifold vacuum ONLY. This is so when you open the throttle, the timing almost instantly retards as the vacuum drops. There is and adjustment allen screw inside the vacuum advance nipple on the distributor to limit its travel. there are also many different advance pods that have different amounts of vacuum advance limit steps on them. You can weld up your own step and file it down or source the one that gives you around 48 to 50 degrees total advance while cruising at light throttle of the freeway. Your car may want less. You have to experiment.
As far as the advance springs go, you want them to let you timing all in "at least" just before you hit your normal freeway cruising speed for optimal mileage. You may get a little more performance if you can get it all in earlier, but avoid detonation at all costs.
My Slant six had a smallish torque cam from Erson designed by Doug Dutra. It liked 24 initial and 32 total, all in by 2200 rpm. I had the distributor in and out half a dozen times to disassemble it and file the slots more until I got to my total timing target. The vacuum advance was hooked directly to the manifold. Once tuned like this, It would smoke the tires for 10 feet on take off when punched with 3.23 rears.
It absolutely transformed that car and improved my gas mileage. Which was not much better. I only got than 14 around town and 18 on the highway at best. The time it took to do it was well worth the effort.
This can be time consuming, but it is the only way I know how to do it without a distributor machine, and the results are well worth it.
