Performance /cruising gear ratio?

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Jonathan

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woodstock ontario
Looking for some advice . I have a 74 duster with 408 stroker motor . 904 3 speed auto. 15 x 60 r 295 rear tire. And wondering what would be a good gear ratio to go with for performance /cruising? Street and strip use any recommendations appreciated . (Was thinking 3.55:1 ratio)
 
I have a 408 in a 71 swinger. 2.94 gear has been much better than I thought it would be. 2500 rpm at 70. I have 255/60/15's on the rear. Lots of torque over comes small ratios
 
I have a 420 HP 470 ft-lbs stroker in my duster and I run 3.23s
I'm having the transmission rebuild and a custom high stall converter installed this week...cant wait to see how she gets off the line
 
If i was a little 340 or 360 I'd say 3.55.
With that big torque monster 408, 3.23 should be great.
 
K great advice. But I'm trying to figure out my gear ratio in the car now . But having trouble figuring it out without pulling rear cover?. I spin the tire 1 full turn and driveshaft turns 1 1/4 turns . What ratio would that work out to be?
 
3:73 or 3:55 has got my vote. Going that route with the motor id rather have gear for launch. I wouldnt be concerned about cruising
 
Tire 29in + 3.55 gear. at 50 mph = 2056.5 rpms.
Tire 29in + 3.21 gear. at 50 mph = 1859.6 rpms.

You most likely have 3.55 gears already.
 
Come on guys, a 408 stroker with a 3.55 ? why bother building a bad *** stroker . I had a 408 stroker is my 70 Cuda with a 4 speed . I had a 4.10 and a 4.30 , I will admit its definately not a highway gear , but how much highway driving do you do ?
 
2 hr cruise to beach and back on weekends .ripin around for hr drive some evenings. Bit of town cruising. So a gear for both would b nice
 
Come on guys, a 408 stroker with a 3.55 ? why bother building a bad *** stroker . I had a 408 stroker is my 70 Cuda with a 4 speed . I had a 4.10 and a 4.30 , I will admit its definately not a highway gear , but how much highway driving do you do ?

i have known a couple of 408 strokers that et'd better with 3.91's
..and the 3.91's are better highway gears
 
K great advice. But I'm trying to figure out my gear ratio in the car now . But having trouble figuring it out without pulling rear cover?. I spin the tire 1 full turn and driveshaft turns 1 1/4 turns . What ratio would that work out to be?

2.50:1, but that's probably not right. Trry this:
[ame="https://youtu.be/fB0jrucjlxg"]https://youtu.be/fB0jrucjlxg[/ame]

or this:
[ame="https://youtu.be/kGkwb76tkDw"]https://youtu.be/kGkwb76tkDw[/ame]
 
I drive mine at highway speed. Lunati flat tappet cam 10200703LK. 1.6 rockers for a little extra lift. 408 chugs along real smooth. 3.55 or 3.73 is what I'll have when I convert to overdrive. Until then, 2.94"s are working great
 
The 3.55's I put in my 383 Dart are a little too revvy (3000 rpm @ 60 mph), but I have 14" wheels that are 25.5 inches tall. The Dart comes out of the hole like gangbusters, but I think I'd be redlined at the 1320' mark. I'm gonna go to a 15" wheel about 28-29" tall.
I think you would like the 3.55's with your tire combo for your stroker. Just my 2C.
 
I think a 3.23 would be perfect.
 
About a 26 " tall tire

Ok, now I'm confused earlier you said you had 295/60R15 tires which translates to about 29 inches?

295/50R15 are about 26.5 inches diameter, as is a 245/60R15.

235/60R15 is almost exactly 26 inches.

I'm not picking on you or anything, just trying to clear things up so I can figure out what's what.

If your tire is 26 inches in diameter then at 50 mph with 2.96 gears you'll be about the 1912.6 RPM mark.
 
Yeah there is some confusion there. The two different methods are yielding three different answers.
To make it easier (heehee), here is
the formula; mph =( rpm x tc )divided by (1056 x R1 x R2)
where
tc is tire circumference, and R1 is the tranny gear Ratio, and R2 is the rear end gear Ratio.
Tire circumference is tire diameter x 3.1416(pi); and is also known as tire rollout,when the wheel is installed.
A 295/50-15 is mathematically (295/25.4 x .50 x 2) + 15 = 26.6 tall, and the tc is then; 26.6 x 3.1416 is 83.57. It's roll out may be different.
Why? because a 295 is only a 295 when mounted on a checking rim of 70% of it's design section width, and it is then rounded to the nearest 10 mm,ending in a 5.
For example ,your 295 was designed for 295/25.4 x 70% = 8 inch rim. Nobody puts a 295 on an 8incher cuz it either wont live long, or won't handle. A 295 needs at least a 10incher, returning long tread life at 24 psi, and still rolling over in the turns.
So a 295 on a 10 incher is no longer a 295( 11.6 sidewall width). I think mine bulged out to 13.2 inches at 24psi. So the math says 13.2 x 25.4 =343, which would be rounded to 345. Get it? It still the same tire right? But the math says it is now a 345 and it is thus 28.58 hi, and it's circumference would calculate to 28.58 x 3.1416 =89.79
So the math method only works when adhering to the manufacturers specs, and then still only ballparks the roll-out.
So let's talk about roll-out. You need to make two chalkmarks on the sidewall of the mounted wheel assy. The marks must be 180* apart,more or less exactly through the center of the wheel diameter. Then you just back up the car until an imaginary line drawn thru them is vertical.Make a mark on the concrete floor adjacent to the mark,then roll the car ahead,one full 360* turn until the marks are again vertical, and make another mark. Measure between the marks and Shazzam!, you have an exact number to enter into the formula.
'Course you could just jack the car up and measure it with a cloth tape :)

If you are not so good at math, here is the same formula,restated to spit out the gear ratio;
(mph x 1056 x R1) / ( rpm x tc) = 1/R2

Here's an example using your numbers and assuming the 295 is 84.8 roll-out.

(50mph x 1056 x 1.00tranny Ratio@zero-slip) / (2000rpm x 84.80tc ) = 1/R2 the rear Ratio
Which is; 52800/ 169600 = 1/R2
And finally .311 = 1/R2 ,which when restated is; R2 = 1/.311, and again; R2 = 3.21 ; Remember at Zero-slip.

So what is Zero-slip? Well let's say you are cruising along on a smooth level hiway doing 50 at 2000rpm. Then you come to the bottom of a long steep hill. To maintain 50 you will have to lay on some throttle. So halfway up you notice the tach is now showing 2100 rpm. and a bit later you see 2200. The hill gets steeper and you feed it more pedal.Still maintaining 50mph, you now see the tach at 2250. After that it stays at 2250 till you crest the hill.
So what's going on? Well at 2250, the convertor finally quit slipping is what is happening. That thus means the 2000 number must have been a slipping number. And the how much , is, 1 - (2250/2000) = .125 or restated 12.5%

What all this boils down to, is that the 3.21 ratio listed above, while correct for a 4 speed with a 1.00 final ratio, it may be off for an automatic. How much is anybody's guess, but the next size up, a 3.55 is just 1 -(3.55/3.21) =10.6 % away. So could there be a 3.55 in there? I don't think so, but sometimes the math is misleading.

The method shown in the video works, almost exactly, but is only as accurate as the guy performing the operation.
 
As to what gear size?, it kindof depends on the personality of your engine, the desired cruising speed, and your willingness to put up with NVH; noise, vibration, and harshness. My engine vacuum peaks at about 2000, so I could run 2.50s. But my starter gear would be just 3.09 x 2.50 = 7.73, and my engine would be a dog off the line. On the flip side a starter gear of 11/1 which my engine likes, demands a rear of 3.55, which brings my rpm up to 2867@65 which I hated. My solution was a GearVendor overdrive unit, which settled her down to 2200 or so.
You on the other hand have way more engine than do I. Way more torque means your starter gear does not need to be as steep, and the auto means you have some additional torque multiplication, and stall speed to work with.
So working backwards and assuming you can stand 2400rpm@65, your rear would math out at 2.94. These with a 2.45 low gear would get you a starter of 7.20. Well that's a bit of a load for a 3.58 stroke M/T for sure. My 367 has pulled 2.76 with a 3.09 so that makes 8.53, which is about the same as 7.73 plus 10%.So with your 11% extra cubes and the TC multiplication going on, I'd guess it would compare favorably.However this low a starter-gear is a bit sluggish with my 367-M/T, unless you can spin the skins. Which shouldn't be a problem, unless you way under stall it.Performance wise 2.94s will get you 65mph @ about 5800 in FIRST gear.
So If you don't match the TC and the cam to the rear gear, you might be looking at trading hiway comfort for off-the-line giddy-up.
Knowing how my combo performs with various ratios, I'd have to through my vote in with the 3.23guys . I hated that 2800 plus NVH, that 3.55s got me, and 2.94s were a bit sluggish for 367 cubes.
Plus 3.23s, in first, will get you 65 @ about 6400, still about right on the money. Plus an awful lot of 2881489 carriers come with those and trac-locs, both of which you are gonna need. I'd have to say; 3.23s it is then.
 
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