Petronix testing?

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salinasjoel

Learning Daily
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Any way to test if my petronix unit is bad? I've never used on but got this off of a 318 I pulled to replace a motor in a different car. Tested all my connections and I know I am getting power to the distributor cap but I am not getting spark to my plugs. Thoughts? I think I'll drop in my dual point and see if it fires but if I could test my petronix prior to buying another that would be good.
 
Is the distributor tight? The little known secret about the evident simplicity of Pertronix is that the electronics module MUST be grounded and if the distributor is loose in the engine, it might not be getting a good ground.

Basically there are only two wires --- red is hot and black is coil NEG. Black is NOT ground

Hook RED to switched 12V --the "key" side of the ballast. Of course the ballast and coil both must be good. You can easily check the ballast for continuity, but testing a coil is really not conclusive.

Make sure that the coil NEG is not getting grounded. This might happen, example, if a tach wire is also connected and the tach is bad, or the wire shorted to ground. Make sure the external radio suppression cap on the coil is NOT connected to the black/ coil NEG.

Obviously, make sure the distributor is actually turning. This might seem obvious, but there have been cases where the cam, cam gear, breakage in the distributor, etc, have stopped rotation when the rest of the engine was cranking over.

Some systems draw excessive current with the key "on" but with engine not turning and some do not. Pertronix, Mopar ECU and of course breaker points all do. GM HEI, example, does not. So if it's been left sitting for awhile, key on, the module, coil, or ballast may be gone.
 
I have the same problem with my 68 valiant slant 6. after looking at the car and the way the distributor was wired I figured I had a petronic unit in it. What I was going to do is run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil and then use a remote starter to try to get it running which would cut out the ignition system, so am I thinking wrong as to doing this ?
 
Here's the thing. If the unit is wired up with ballast in place, the Pertronix should hook up "before" the ballast. So if you run it with a jumper to coil + the module will then actually be running through the ballast at reduced voltage.

There's only two wires to these, and all the destructions are easy to find at Pertronix, so my advice is download em, read em and go from there.
 
I converted dual point to Pertronix with a single point type distr. I had a few problems starting it, and found that it started & ran good with a newer battery. Electronic Pertronix needs good 12+ volts supply. I tried it w ballast and from 12v side of ballast. Didn't seem to make that much difference, but control unit can burnout faster if ign is hot when engine stopped.
 
I'm running it no ballast with one if their coils... I didn't think to check if it was spinning. Ill look into the distributor being tight as well. Thanks guys
 
Found out that I am getting spark from coil so I am thinking something is wrong in the distributor, what should the gap be on this unit in slant 6 ?
 
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