Snake
Mopar Nut
Good morning gents, I will soon ready to install the duel fuel line and fuel gauge on the line,Ihave the great white pipe compound can i use it on the threads?
pipe compound
- Thread starter Snake
- Start date
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Mr.FT
Well-Known Member
I would use Teflon tape over a compound pipe dope.
Snake
Mopar Nut
Why? inliten me
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
FYI, so would I.
A lot less mess, and I trust it (just start it a thread or so back from the end of the fitting.)
I noticed where people mention that it deteriorates, but I have never had that problem with fuel parts and teflon.
Are any of what you are going to use flare fittings?
If so, there isn't much you can do with those except lightly snug then wiggle a little and snug a little and wiggle a little and tighten down.
It helps to mate the surfaces a bit on assembly if you have one that leaks at all.
A lot less mess, and I trust it (just start it a thread or so back from the end of the fitting.)
I noticed where people mention that it deteriorates, but I have never had that problem with fuel parts and teflon.
Are any of what you are going to use flare fittings?
If so, there isn't much you can do with those except lightly snug then wiggle a little and snug a little and wiggle a little and tighten down.
It helps to mate the surfaces a bit on assembly if you have one that leaks at all.
Mr.FT
Well-Known Member
In my experience the tape is, cleaner to work with, no chance of any getting into the fuel line, easier to remove parts if needed. Some compounds are hardening compounds and once they set they are very tough to get apart. After I check for leaks I take a razor blade and score and remove the excess tape for a nice clean job. Just my feelings.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
No need for tape or dope on flared fittings, right?
Myth or real? ... "start teflon tape 1 thread back"
No need for sealant if the fittings are FLARE style with straight threads. That's where the fittings have an angled nose that mates to a similar angled seat on the female part.
If the threads are NPT (tapered pipe threads) then yes you need a sealant.
If the threads are NPT (tapered pipe threads) then yes you need a sealant.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That is why I mentioned wiggling a flare fitting that leaks.
If you put just a little pressure on them with the nut, and then wiggle the line it can help mate the surfaces if you have one that leaks.
Otherwise,
Teflon on NPT threads starting 1 thread back to be sure you don't end up with a peice of teflon in your needle seat or jets.
Nothing generally on flares.
Pipe dope on your gas and water pipes in your house.
If you put just a little pressure on them with the nut, and then wiggle the line it can help mate the surfaces if you have one that leaks.
Otherwise,
Teflon on NPT threads starting 1 thread back to be sure you don't end up with a peice of teflon in your needle seat or jets.
Nothing generally on flares.
Pipe dope on your gas and water pipes in your house.
Tapered pipe threads are the only threads where tape or paste should be used. If the automotive aftermarket quit using tapered NPT completely, mine would be tears a joy.
It's not so much that teflon tape disintegrates or partly dissolves in fuel, it doesn't, it's that little tiny pieces of it break off and plug small holes in whatever is downstream. Like in carb emulsion tubes, BT,DT.
The "one thread back" rule is a good one if you want to use tape. I prefer PST or a similar teflon bearing paste on low dollar, low importance systems. Doesn't take much and I can wipe off the excess right after assembly. If the system is one where a leak could cause death or major damage I use Lock-tite 545, but be forewarned that it is not inexpensive!
It's not so much that teflon tape disintegrates or partly dissolves in fuel, it doesn't, it's that little tiny pieces of it break off and plug small holes in whatever is downstream. Like in carb emulsion tubes, BT,DT.
The "one thread back" rule is a good one if you want to use tape. I prefer PST or a similar teflon bearing paste on low dollar, low importance systems. Doesn't take much and I can wipe off the excess right after assembly. If the system is one where a leak could cause death or major damage I use Lock-tite 545, but be forewarned that it is not inexpensive!
Snake
Mopar Nut
THE 2 that go to the carb are flared,and the 1 that the fuel gauge is not.The gauge is ARP 6101.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Remember David Wilcox....Layin pipe all night long?? I prefer KY lube.LOL ; ). I know I,m no help.
famous bob
mopar misfit
:banghead: try this if u like regular old teflon tape. take some off the roll, and dip it in gasoline, it will dissapear. when u do use it, run it up to the edge, not past at all. even better is a liquid teflon paste made by permatex,completely smooth, no lumps or ground up teflon. I`ve been plumbing for 43 1/2 yrs., this is the best I`ve found, it`s the only thing we have had perfect sucess w/ in a water treatment plant w/ all the chemicals. hard to find tho--------just fyi-----bob
Snake
Mopar Nut
THANKSSSSSSSS Bob were can i get that stuff.
Not wanting to be promoting erroneous info I just researched gasoline's compatibility with PTFE (aka "teflon"). I can only conclude that what ever tape disappeared in gasoline was not actually PTFE. Every chart that I could find in my ref. library and online rates it as "Excellent" excepting one specifically for "Gasoline (High Aromatic)" which rated it "Good".
http://www.calpaclab.com/PTFE-PFA-and-Teflon-Chemical-Compatibility-Chart-s/832.htm
http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance
http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm
http://www.gaytri.com/chemical_resistance_teflon.html
http://www.calpaclab.com/PTFE-PFA-and-Teflon-Chemical-Compatibility-Chart-s/832.htm
http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance
http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm
http://www.gaytri.com/chemical_resistance_teflon.html
Snake
Mopar Nut
Interesting info there,so if 1 was to use the tape what way should it be wrap around the threads clock wise of counter clock wise.
marksmopar1
Well-Known Member
Don't use tape, if a small amount gets loose in the line it can plug jets, floats etc.
Yes correct, the tape will turn to mush and be useless, disintegrate.
Compression fitting need nothing.
If anything (on other fittings other than compression) a small amount of pipe "Dope" very LITTLE is needed, get the non hardening type so you can make it easy on yourself taking it apart latter.
.
Yes correct, the tape will turn to mush and be useless, disintegrate.
Compression fitting need nothing.
If anything (on other fittings other than compression) a small amount of pipe "Dope" very LITTLE is needed, get the non hardening type so you can make it easy on yourself taking it apart latter.
.
Tape is easier to apply where you want it and not where you don't. Can be done with paste and is my own preference, but it isn't as easy.
I learned the "one exposed thread" Rule Of Thumb when building manifolds for rescue breathing air systems for off shore oil platforms. Being left-handed is a advantage here. I wind onto the threads by holding the tape roll in my left hand and the fitting in my right. "Tighten" the fitting pulling the tape snugly onto the threads. It helps to start several threads back, get most of one wrap on, and then bring the edge of the tape down to the bottom of the second thread root and continue winding to 3 wraps keeping the edge of the tape in the thread root. That was the max number of wraps that I was allowed then and I've just kept doing it that way.
Absolute easiest to apply is the Lock-tite 545. Three drops radially equally spaced about 1/3 up from the start of the threads and screw it together. Let it kick before filling and/or pressurizing the system and you're good to go. The 545 is a thread sealant, not a thread locker. It does have some thread locking effect, but it is far from being Lock-tite Red or worse. More like the capillary green stuff in terms of thread lock strength. That is to say normal effort to disassemble.
I learned the "one exposed thread" Rule Of Thumb when building manifolds for rescue breathing air systems for off shore oil platforms. Being left-handed is a advantage here. I wind onto the threads by holding the tape roll in my left hand and the fitting in my right. "Tighten" the fitting pulling the tape snugly onto the threads. It helps to start several threads back, get most of one wrap on, and then bring the edge of the tape down to the bottom of the second thread root and continue winding to 3 wraps keeping the edge of the tape in the thread root. That was the max number of wraps that I was allowed then and I've just kept doing it that way.
Absolute easiest to apply is the Lock-tite 545. Three drops radially equally spaced about 1/3 up from the start of the threads and screw it together. Let it kick before filling and/or pressurizing the system and you're good to go. The 545 is a thread sealant, not a thread locker. It does have some thread locking effect, but it is far from being Lock-tite Red or worse. More like the capillary green stuff in terms of thread lock strength. That is to say normal effort to disassemble.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Don, if the end of the threads are facing you then clockwise.
You want the end of the tape tailing (following) as to not bunch up while screwing in.
You want the end of the tape tailing (following) as to not bunch up while screwing in.
Yep wrap tape on same way fitting threads on.
But like stated several times no tape needed with flared fittings....
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