Plastic resevoir master

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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I am just about finished with my disc brake swap and am still trying to decide on a master cylinder.

After some thought, I think a plastic resevoir with the screw caps would be better. I know I need a 4bolt - 2 bolt adapter.

Which mode/year swap over and will I need a new pushrod, or will my stock 70 dart drum brake car pushrod work?

Thanks!
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Wow. Nobody?
Click to expand...

I used this as a resource:
http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

Additionally, besides the obvious parts such as pads, wheel bearings and seals, splash shields, etc., you'll need, (only) if you now have drums, a master cylinder from virtually any '70-up disc car, even one from such common junkyard dogs as a 1976-78 F-body (Volaré/Aspen.) Later cars ('79-up) used a neat, lightweight aluminum master cylinder, but it was attached to the firewall (or vacuum booster) via only two bolts, as opposed to the earlier 4-bolt arrangement, requiring an adapter plate (Mopar Performance P5249305 or AR Engineering MC1002) to install.

I ordered a new part for a Fifth Avenue
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-ik4e5Z8kn47?itemIdentifier=49330_429930_0_

Fenco New/Master Cylinder (Brake System)

This product is a fit for your:
1984 Chrysler Fifth Avenue 5.2L 2BL 8cyl
Part Number: NM1822
Alternate Part Number: 20-1822

you can see a pic in my build thread (below)

-chris
 
CudaChris67 said:
I used this as a resource:
http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

Additionally, besides the obvious parts such as pads, wheel bearings and seals, splash shields, etc., you'll need, (only) if you now have drums, a master cylinder from virtually any '70-up disc car, even one from such common junkyard dogs as a 1976-78 F-body (Volaré/Aspen.) Later cars ('79-up) used a neat, lightweight aluminum master cylinder, but it was attached to the firewall (or vacuum booster) via only two bolts, as opposed to the earlier 4-bolt arrangement, requiring an adapter plate (Mopar Performance P5249305 or AR Engineering MC1002) to install.

I ordered a new part for a Fifth Avenue
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-ik4e5Z8kn47?itemIdentifier=49330_429930_0_

Fenco New/Master Cylinder (Brake System)

This product is a fit for your:
1984 Chrysler Fifth Avenue 5.2L 2BL 8cyl
Part Number: NM1822
Alternate Part Number: 20-1822

you can see a pic in my build thread (below)

-chris
Click to expand...

Great. Did you have to modify your pushrod at all?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Great. Did you have to modify your pushrod at all?
Click to expand...

I have not got that far yet, just painted the firewall. Instead of using one of the adapters I modified my firewall, so I am sure I will have to modify the rod. I saw a great post on here where someone cut their rod, added allthread a coupler and nuts to make their own adjustable rod. pretty clever.
 
I put one in my 68 cuda. The manual pushrod worked fine w/o mods. Originally I went to an Auto Zone store and had them bring me out practically every one they had in stock. I was looking for the recess in the rear of the MC piston so I could use the rubber bushing to retain the pushrod. I finally found one (believe it was a truck app) with a 1-1/8" bore. That proved to give too stiff a pedal for my liking. IIRC, the truck MC has a slanted reservoir but I had a straight one from a car laying around so I popped it on there. I have 73-76 A-body front discs w/ 10 x 2-1/2 rear drums (B-body).

I got the 4x2 adaptor at the Nats one year, Mancini has them and I believe AR Engineering makes them.

Later I bought an old Mopar Performance MC from a drag racer at a swap meet that has a 1-1/32" dia bore. This is better for me. It has a nice linear feel, firm but not too hard to push. I ditched the safety valve and stock prop valve and plumbed direct using tees, etc. I also added a Line-loc and an adjustable prop valve while I was at it. Your results may vary.
 
I used a rockauto rebuilt from a '79 Aspen on my '64 Valiant. Only thing I had to do was make a simple adapter for it to mount to the firewall. Works great.
 
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